Author Topic: Hello From Melbourne (Kawasaki F11B) (Read 56911 times)

JADERD · « **Reply #75 on:** July 20, 2011, 01:52:15 pm »

quick question,

i checked tolerances of rear swing arm bushes etc and are all fine to use.

what i would like to know is what grease to ppl reccomend for the following and can you use one type for all ?, some quick reading ive heard you need to watch drop point temps of grease,waterproof ness of it etc.

Wheel Bearings ?

Swing Arm ?

Steering head bearings ?

and any other stuff you think i need greased as i reinstall over next few months

any reccomendations on brand and type would be great and am budget oriented....its not going to be a daily motocross thrasher etc...

JADERD · « **Reply #76 on:** July 20, 2011, 03:55:40 pm »

back to indicators for a bit

spent some more cash lol, the other day i was looking on ebay for the 6V8W globes and harldy any came up and if they did they were over $5.00 each.

i had some other indicators in my watch list for ages and now that i have got the 6V8W flasher on the way i thought i would buy these indicators below at only $25 for 4 incl postage and the guy has heaps more sets they are 6V8W and include globes.

They mount different to the other ones i got so with my stock ones, the set i bought the other day, the relay and this set i think i have everything i need to get something working well

all for around $60.00 so not too bad.

tony27 · « **Reply #77 on:** July 20, 2011, 05:52:35 pm »

Quote from: JADERD on July 20, 2011, 01:52:15 pm

quick question,

i checked tolerances of rear swing arm bushes etc and are all fine to use.

what i would like to know is what grease to ppl reccomend for the following and can you use one type for all ?, some quick reading ive heard you need to watch drop point temps of grease,waterproof ness of it etc.

Wheel Bearings ?

Swing Arm ?

Steering head bearings ?

and any other stuff you think i need greased as i reinstall over next few months

any reccomendations on brand and type would be great and am budget oriented....its not going to be a daily motocross thrasher etc...

Belray waterproof grease suits all of the above, I use it for any grease point on my trials bike & haven't found anything better

JADERD · « **Reply #78 on:** July 20, 2011, 09:13:40 pm »

Brilliant Tony, that reinforced the feedback I got on some other forums, cheers

JADERD · « **Reply #79 on:** August 01, 2011, 07:04:16 pm »

quick update, bought some more stuff over weekend, grease and degreaser etc.

chain is currently soaking in degreaser to clean it up then ill check its tolerance, might be ok still.

degreased the motor and stripped all the black off in anticipation of repainting black again....but since the whole lot is bare now i like it alot better.

Also bit of a bonus i feel, the top cylinder head was painted black so has gone back to bare metal, though the bottom half with horizontal fins isnt painted black / gray it is black /gray metal i guess which i like and gives it a two tone look.

Its hard to see in the pics but looks good.

Also filed the fins, need to go over them with some light sandpaper and also the vertical fins although i like how it is coming along.

Painted the fenders, came out well, primer then 4 light coats of enamel, perfect 21 degrees painting with 2 X 500w halogens on them..

Also some other stuff came

Other indicators, which the 6V8W globes from them fit straight into the 12V indicators i bought off ebay which i will use as i like the way they look better.

Kellys Enduro front fender bag arrived

NOS Front brake cable arrived

Pyramid Parts fork oil seal and fork dust boots arrived

Trailtech dash and top mount arrived.

Just waiting on Front sprocket and the little battery case i bought to hold the 9V battery to run the trailtech, it has an internal 3V battery but off that the backlight only runs at 10% and the shift lights dont work, so adding a 9V runs it for a good year or so and gives full backlight and shift lights and stays on for 20min after riding instead of quickly shutting off.

The trailtech mounted on the stock guage bracket fairly well, i also chucked on an old MX visor i had laying around as a shield for it, from the angle it mounts and riding position the whole thing can be seen no prob, especially with backlight, shift lights may be a bit out of view but will fill the space with light and be fine....i may ditch it if it looks wanky once fitted on with whole front end complete.

Some pics below

JADERD · « **Reply #80 on:** August 05, 2011, 01:51:37 pm »

bought some 10w fork oil so i will replace the oil seals, dust boots and oil, decided on stock 10w as i think new oil will feel better than the 35+ yr stuff that is in there, also if it feels too soft once riding compared to the uprated rear i can do a small pvc pipe mod to stiffen a little.

also bought these for my "street" riding of the bike once complete. Shift Kicker motorcycle boot, though look full street, gave good reviews etc

and for the small amount of offroad riding the best value i think are the fly maverick boots, i think i would just get the adventure ones over the MX ones, adventure are an 11" boot 3 strap, MX are the higher 4 strap ones

JADERD · « **Reply #81 on:** August 07, 2011, 07:12:20 pm »

Little bit happened over last few days

got my official VJMC membership pack which is great, bike will be permit rego'd through VJMC once complete

reinstalled the swingarm and torqued it up

reinstalled the steering stem and it feels a good level of tightness, will recheck prior to riding etc

undid top bolt off forks, took out and cleaned the springs, both springs were identical lengths which is good neither have sagged.

from pouring out oil and releasing bottom screw i got out around 135ml from each fork, figure there is atleast the other 30ml or so sitting in and around all the aspects of the fork so leads me to believe again that they were never leaking.

Dont have a big enough allen key so didnt replace oil seals yet, refilled with 170ml of 10W oil per fork, all back together and feel great.

Fitted forks and torqued up

Fitted gauge assembly, cleaned instrument cluster wiring with circuit spray etc

fitted headlight and oversize cover

fitted handlebars and torqued up.

Liking how it is all looking and am at least able to straddle bike to see how it will be, the trailtech is perfectly viewable from seating angle whilst still protected.

boss was throwing out a single bed egg shell top, she thought of me n my shed work and gave it to me, works great.

Cleaned chain and checked tolerance, tolerance for 10kg weight on chain and 21 link measure is 314mm to 324mm, mine measure 327mm so def gone

so i need to buy a chain.

Big thankyou to Graham from OZVMX, helped him out with some pics of rear rim n spokes and some F11 articles, he gave me the oil line that i need as mine snapped....save me a good 70$ which can go towards chain, great bloke.

getting excited now coming together well.

Cheers

JADERD · « **Reply #82 on:** August 14, 2011, 05:49:43 pm »

Spent today getting into bike,

Got my 525 chain all sorted, its Tsubaki japanese brand, cut back to 100 links for $72 which is great, pick up Tuesday night

Also got some Dririder Assen gloves off ebay they were size 3XL and won them for $1.25c Fit perfect which is great.

The guy then gave me a 8XL Dririder waterproof jacket for free !!, as the gloves and jacket were thrown in with bike he bought and he has no need, the 8XL is heaps to big for me im sure ill find someone who wants it at a cheap price

After researching tyres i settled on some Pirelli MT43 as they are a great on / off road and brilliant for letting down to low psi for bush trips. Got them at Pablos tyres in mulgrave, great bloke scotty and nice shop with some vintage Maicos hanging around to look at.

Then spent today cleaning and doing a basic polish of brake hub Front and Rear.
Pulled apart all apects of brakes, cleaned, regreased changed some seals etc, cleaned all aspects of wheel bearings / axles, repacked bearings etc. I decided not to worry about replacing the bearings as they were perfect i will keep the ones i bought incase need in future.

Fitted rear wheel so as a roller and fitted shocks and torqued up, fitted front axle and torqued up.

Was great to be able to hop on the bike and bounce up and down a little, rear shocks are nice and stiff the balance of stiffness up front to rear seems fine, once motor and everything in will reassess, may need stiffer springs in front or extra spacer to make stiffer.

Cheers.....i want it all together already

Doc · « **Reply #83 on:** August 14, 2011, 06:02:24 pm »

Looks good Jarerd

The F11 though not the most popular is/was probably the best 250 road/trail of the era.

JADERD · « **Reply #84 on:** August 14, 2011, 06:28:39 pm »

Cheers Doc, yeah i have read a fair few review, have some old orig test articles from old mags that say the same.

i have some more stuff in the mail including some basic fork guards to replace the little ones i made up that are ziptied on for extra protection etc.

oldfart · « **Reply #85 on:** August 14, 2011, 07:05:04 pm »

Jarerd. It's always a good feeling when you have the wheels back on . Dam site easier to work on also

JADERD · « **Reply #86 on:** August 14, 2011, 07:43:12 pm »

yeah, from a person with zero knowledge of drum brakes i was surprised how simple they are in design and removal etc, yet do their job very well. my front brake i remember never released after engaging and was stiff as, now its perfect and smooth.

Really happy with the rear shock setup, looks alot tougher than stock, raised rear maybe 1 inch and alot stiffer and they are on the softest setting.

Motor really just needs some more light sanding, then polishing then i can chuck it back in.

Quick question - i need to pull clutch apart as its stuck at moment and replace front sprocket. From researching easiest way to remove sprocket is using the chain to put tension on sprocket whilst chocking rear wheel from spinning or with a tie down etc ?

as for the clutch to hold it you are supposed to have a special tool, what can be done instead ? can you use a tie down wrapped tight round clutch basket then have that fixed to a point ? Is it easier to remove clutch basket once motor in the bike ?

If the clutch basket job is easier when in frame i will put motor back in during the week.

Still waiting on sprocket from US, was posted on 27th July apparently so should be this week i think

Graham · « **Reply #87 on:** August 14, 2011, 08:48:46 pm »

Hi Jaderd,

If you are only trying to free up the clutch plates,there is no special tool needed.
Undo the 10mm bolts and take the bolts and springs out,if you find the clutch basket turning get a rag a jam it between the clutch gear and the gear on the end of the crank,this will hold it from spining.

If you want to go further I have used a oil filter remover ( like a set of vise grips ) to hold the inner basket while undoing the nut.

How did you get the paint off the fins and crankcases.

Graham

JADERD · « **Reply #88 on:** August 15, 2011, 08:25:05 am »

Cheers Graham, that is everything i needed to know, thanks mate.

as for the paint removal i was at autobarn looking for paint stripper (the gel type) as its a bit easier to use, and i found the same brand paint stripper in aerosol form, it was brilliant i still taped up wiring from engine and also plugged up exhaust and inlet holes then sprayed what i wanted. Being in aerosol you could be really accurate and easily adjust the flow. Dont think it was that cheap maybe $17 for a 500gm can which i used prob 70% of it doing 3 coats on the engine, could prob have done a 4th but by then i was sick of the process lol, prob still a few harsh stuck on bits on paint on there that i need to sand off.

Between the fins from a top view you can still see some black paint, fairly hard to get in their, and i also light sanded the fins using some sandpaper wrapped around an old toothbrush that i filed down to a tight fit etc.

ill hit the fins again with some light sanding and the whole motor before polishing the motor. Only the outside cases will be really polished and shiny the motor may not get that shiny/may not want it full shiny.

JADERD · « **Reply #89 on:** August 25, 2011, 06:00:17 pm »

ok got home tonight, looked at the motor and thought, bugger it, im going to crack the head and have a look see / clean up.

so for all those with the tens of years worth more experience than me what do you see.

i have done a basic clean of the head ? it look ok, notice that its not completely smooth it does have like a slight sandy grain texture on most of it, appears like how it was cast ? and is normal ?

what is the easiest way to take the main part off, it says to use rubber sledge and tap away, i used some rolled up shirt and normal hammer lol, no go so far and dont want to tap too hard, is there another way to lever / loosen it off ? do i really need to take it off, all i really want to do is clean the top of cylinder, is that possible how it is, am afraid of bits of carbon falling everywhere....have vaccuum cleaner going at same time ?

cylinder seems to make a nice fit when sealing top with hand etc.....so i feel it would be fine once heats up and fits proper etc.