Hello From Melbourne (Kawasaki F11B)

[JADERD]

Picked up my helmet tonight.

Got a L, could not even fit an M over my head lol.

seems to fit well, might be slightly big....i mean mm's.  I tried on other helmets all dual sport and they all felt too loose, too tight, complete wrong shape etc, this one felt to grab eveywhere, nice on top of head, on cheeks etc.

I might unclip the lining and play with some small pieces of thin foam in different spots to get it just right...also prob wear a balaclava most times which adds a bit of bulk etc...

i read the manual and it does slightly move side to side....and forward and back a bit but feels more so like its my skin moving back and forward lol.

doing the test trying to lift it off head from the back it moves forward a little but cant come off etc.

Soooo without riding in it yet, all in all i think it should be ok.

[Doc]

wow, looks like you could fly to the moon in that! I like the black steath look though helmets sure have changed over the years...I must be old

[JADERD]

of the dual sports its the least space flight looking lol.

check out this one, the Fly Trekker



father in law has some sticky sided thin dash foam left over from his monaro build that he said i can have....will be able to get the helmet fitting perfect i think then.

Also scored some clear PVC fuel hose from clarke rubber, is sold as Oil and Fuel use etc....not sure how true but will see how we go, i got 1 m of 3mm 6mm and 8mm as only $1.20 per metre so figured id cover my bases.

[JADERD]

ok getting closer now.

Friday night and saturday night at about 9:30pm i headed to the garage till around 1am lol...time flew wasnt even tired.

Finished wiring and fitted the trail tech dash with its 9V battery + switched tucked away under tank though accessible to turn off n on etc.

then i pulled apart the carby sat night and today i cleaned it all and refitted it all together.

It was gross, heaps of muck and gunk as you can imagine.

Carby cleaner worked great, better than i expected actually and stripped all the black paint that was already deteriorated anyway.

after cleaning it all i blew everything and everywhere with air gun and fitted everything back together.

Carby was simpler than i thought, i just used the exploded view in workshop book, i didnt go to the detailed area that explains how everything works, that would have confused me.

The needle (i think lol) showed basically zero signs of wear just like how it should be which is good.

All the stats on jets etc were identical to manual which is great, although the jet needle was on slot 2, where manual says 3.  From what i know dad never adjusted etc so maybe incorrect position from factory ? i changed it to 3 so inline with book.

i left the float height alone, didnt bend tang as guessing fine from standard as ran correct before.



Question: I adjusted the air screw correct all way in then backed out the 1 3/4 turns. Now the throttle valve cutaway is that something i adjust or is that stating what it is like the jet needle and main jet size etc?

the air stop screw (idle screw) thats not also called the throttle valve cutaway is it ? and the 2.5 means turns out ? figured they would say turns out if that was the case. figured it out with some google searching...just describing the cutaway with the slide...

The air stop screw, where should i have that set ? i guess at high idle to enable me to easy start then when warm adjust to correct idle level....im guessing backed out heaps makes high idle? as intrudes less internally ?

Not going to polish the carby i like the standard look. If as im suspecting the only thing i play with being the air stop screw and air screw the carby is like everyone said...not too scary, i guess its when you start altering your jets etc it can get tricky.

Cheers guys any info would be great, and your ideas on the slot 2 versus slot 3.

[JADERD]

grabbed a fuel filter yesterday and stopped past another clark rubber.

They had filter foam and from what i can tell now it was very similar to what Doc got, i asked the guy and all clarke rubbers can only order the range they had, though some different density options

From research it is reticulated polyester foam, made to allow easy breathing yet good cross section for filtration.

From looking Doc got the 15mm which you could see through holding up to light but not to great detail...or Docs may even be denser as that store may have ordered a different density etc.

so i figured the 5-6mm one i bought i will do three wraps of and be done with it for now, to get bike up and running with some type of filtration while i find the exact type i want. In that time the bike will be lucky to do 100km of road riding etc...  Figure that should be fine as the bike was running on a few layers of old stockings for filtration!! lol.

Cheers

Bit bullet, sick of hunting, its only money right ?

Unifilter - proper filter and proper 250ml oil posted to my door $60  - DONE lol

[JADERD]

just another questions while i sit at work eating lunch and pondering.

The throttle stop screw - what i always just knew as a kid the "idle screw" just thinking out loud.

Doe is work by at you screw it in, it hits the bottom of the cut away or some guide point, so as you screw it in further it pushes the slider up thus opening up more space and increasing idle....due to the tapered head on that screw once you get to a certain point it does not do anymore as you have already reached the maximum width of screw thus height of slide ?

i may be completely off but seems correct in my little carby knowledge head

[Doc]

Simple answer in regards to the idle screw ( throttle stop screw)..yes on all accounts.

Idle mixture screw on the other hand should be screwed all the way in 'lightly' until it stops and then back it out roughly 1 and 3 quarter turns. Set the needle clip to the middle position then check the colour of the sparkplug after a decent ride. The plug colour is one of the best indicators as to what's happening inside the engine and what 'if anything' needs extra adjustment.

[JADERD]

beautiful, thanks for that clarification Doc

wish me luck, i think tonight might be the night for a trial start, ill run a little pre mix in the fuel anyway as it may take a few seconds for the oil lines to run etc and id rather not risk any problems....so im guessing it will be slightly rich anyway for the first bit of fuel i use.

Cheers

* any other things to check ?

key on
kill switch on
fuel on reserve for a bit then onto normal let bowl fill
choke on
a few slow kicks with key off to circulate a bit of oil about ?
then have a go.

PS - clutch does not work at moment though all pulled apart, back together and adjusted as per manual...im hoping it needs to run, oil heat up and get into basket in between everything and then work..otherwise might have to pull apart again ..will see

[Doc]

Sounds like a pretty good method Simon, only other thing is when you kickstart a bike from cold never give them much 'if any' throttle as this is how they flood. The clutch doesn't need to heat up, it may feel like it's not working properly but I'd say it probably just needs some adjustment since you only had it apart just recently. Wait till you start the bike then see what happens. If the clutch doesn't work at all and lunges fwd like you haven't disengaged it then you may have to pull the right side clutch cover off and double check everything. If it partially works but still wants to creep fwd or stall then it'll probably just need a re-adjustment on the worm drive down on the left engine case behind the big slotted screw.

[tony27]

As far as getting the oil lines air free you may be able to hold the oil pump fully open by hand while it's idling, the T500 suzuki I used to own said in the manual to do it until all the bubbles were purged.
Look at where the cable hooks to the pump & if it uses a lever it will be easy enough to hold open, if it uses a disc type arrangement you may be able to do it by lifting the cable out of it's adjuster

[JADERD]

Hi all,

did everything as above, already knew to hold pump on full, was wondering if a way to get the oil already at head etc before starting, only way i found on net was using a power drill at back of pump....i figured that was too much effort.

Rebuilt petcock tonight, fitted up carby and installed fuel filter (bit long of a filter, will prob swap over soon)

chucked some fuel in.

2-3 push throughs of the kick start just to move some oil, then on the second actual kick it worked...started straight up.

Left choke on for a while, checked oil coming through etc, then turned off and assessed everything, no leaks from anywhere fuel or oil thus far which is good.

Headlight worked YIIPPEEE so all ready for my VJMC inspection, First go in with clutch it stalled and freed itself i think, then clutch worked fine, fanged down the road a little up to 3rd gear and back home asleep in garage now.

Havent adjusted idle screw yet, air screw is at factory 1 3/4 out etc.

Ran with no airfilter just for that few mins, Unifilter on way.

Digital dash all over the shop lol need to check earths on that and i think i have tacho interfering with speedo but all all brilliant soooo happy its not funny.

Thanks so far for everyones help and advice so far.

Vid below

http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r231/sberton/?action=view&current=IMG_1738.mp4

[Doc]

very good! 

[JADERD]

another question from the newbie.

my dash allows me to put in two temperatures that are picked up from the top left small head bolt, i undid the one bolt, slipped under it the temp sensor, then split washer then torqued back up.

the temp ranges then trigger two different LEDs (same ones are used for shift lights)

first setting is to state High Temp (engine has reached the entered temp so lets shut her off for a bit ) second setting is to say its reached the over temp danger point

at moment i set the lower on 80 degrees i think and upper on 92.....

what would ppl reccomend i put in as temps ? remembering where sensor is receiving the data from....would like to use the functionality to keep engine safe.

not sure what old air cooled 2 strokes should be .

cheers

[Doc]

I wouldn't know sorry Simon. Never had a temp light or gauge on any of my old bikes nor have I had any aircooled 2 stroke overheat. Only real way I could see that happening on a mildly tuned engine such a stock F11 is if the engine is continuously running for lengthy period at high rpm whilst stationary your best method of keeping things safe is the sound you hear and the power you feel. My brother used to ride from Brisbane to Woodenbong (roughly 150klm each way at highway speeds) in mid summer on his '73 TS250 Suzuki without ever having any issue..except numb hands and a sore arse

[JADERD]

ha, sounds great thanks doc, i might just check temps when riding, find an average for my type of riding, add a few degrees and have that as one then add ten degrees for other, ill see if any ppl on other forums have any idea on approx temps.

Cheers

* tonight im going to check my oil pump, i lined up the two lines on pump lever and body although now thinking about it and reading a bit about those type of pumps im not sure if i had taken the slack up first so will check to see, otherwise it might be giving our "idle" amounts of oil at say 20% throttle so a little under what it should.

on this webpage there is a little image down bottom right giving some standard output rates for various kawasakis that ppl may be interested in

http://www.dansmc.com/2_stroke_oilpump.htm