Hello From Melbourne (Kawasaki F11B)

[Doc]

Clarke Rubber 'filter foam' comes in 2 densities but I believe it's about $16 p/mtr. Go for the fine type not the coarse, you'll see what I mean when you see it. Strip off all the old paper from the original element leaving just the inner cage. Wrap the new foam around and cut to size, use some silastic and stitch the ends together. Give it an oil then slip it back over the cage. Neither density will require any rejetting Make sure it is the black coloured filter foam and not just regular foam.

[JADERD]

perfect response

in relation to oiling it i have the red oil used for K&N filters (pod and panel) is that ok to use on the foam ? from a quick read of the uni filter website they state

"WARNING: UniFilter strongly advises against using filter oil designed for cotton gauze filters.  This filter oil may seem similar but it is far from it.  If you use this type of oil you may run the risk of severely damaging your engine."

are they being wanky wanting you to spend cash on their product or legit...sounds reasonable i think ?

more than happy to go buy some specific oil as saving on the foam although if i can use what i have that would be preferable.  with the cost of the foam etc i will not be cleaning the foam, once it looks dirty / etc i will cut some more so its just the oiling aspect.

Cheers in advance

[Doc]

The Uni oil should be fine, just don't put it on too thick. Alternatively 15w/40 engine oil wrung into the filter will also work but eventually this oil will find it's way to the bottom of the foam. Ok if you plan to clean the filter every few weeks but otherwise the Uni oil is the go as it's sticky as and stays put for the duration.

[JADERD]

sweet, another brilliant answer and very prompt 

ill get some unifilter oil and some clark rubber foam that should provide me with multiple filters.....might make a new one for the lawn mower whilst im at it

[JADERD]

Final work appt today left me out ferntree gully way which was great, stopped on at motorbike city tried on and ordered Rjays Dakar duel sport helmet cheapest place in town so added a darker visor to order .  Then just up the road was Clark rubber,bought the least course if there air filter foam as recommended by doc.  It's 6mm thick, got what they had left so around 70 sq cm for $10.  I'm guessing you only need to have one thickness and as doc said stitch together.  As it's that synthetic type stuff i will give te k&n oil I have a go as it's similar material to the k&n filter. If
It was actual foam I would use the uni filter oil, this air filter "foam" is the type o stuff you find in ducted heating units etc with a sporadic spider web like pattern make up, fair sure the sticky oil should work.

[Doc]

nope, wrong type, the foam I got was about 15mm thick, it was much more dense and the proper automotive filter foam. You can't see any light though it. Sorry the pics are so small but it's all I have.

fine coarse

[JADERD]

sweet doc, thats all good, ive got to head out to the same area again next week to grab my helmet so ill get that sort

the stuff i bought i can use for spare in the ducted heating at home...

cheers for the pics.

[JADERD]

ok today was a 10am - 5:00pm garage day.

all to do with wiring, airbox, oil reservoir etc.

so it all went well, in relation to wiring any where where there was some old black tape that appeared to be concealing a join or splice i undid and inspected, at the steering stem area where heaps wires come together i found two that were broken so fixed them.

was able to remove a little wiring that was the lights for tacho n speedo dials.

i replaced the 6V17w relay with the 6V8w one i bought, indicators work fine, nice brightness i think and seem to flicker at the same rate as a car which im guessing is all good.

Rear brake light works, tail light works.

What doesnt work.

Horn doesnt....anyway to check / test other than plug in ? should i hear atleast some type of humming if working ?

Neutral light on dash doesnt work ? does motor need to be running maybe?
Headlight doesnt work - guessing engine needs to be running ? as even indicators slow slightly and dim a little if i hold brake on...just using the 6V battery power etc.
high beam indic light doesnt work ? once again due to motor not running ?
Front brake light sensor doesnt work...not exactly sure how it works, looking into the part that slips onto the part that clips into brake it has 2 contacts in their that look bent and butchered so may need need replacement ? as the actual piece that clips into brake looks fine, has 2 contacts on it and the spring loaded little rod bit.....might not even be needed  for legalities ?

i spoke to VJMC guy who inspects and he is happy to inspect bike with indicators working etc bike doesnt have to be running. so hopeflly registered soon.

Note- some feedback off do the ton forum a guy said headlight should work off battery only... Though I don't think this can be true as doesn't it have a lighting coil where circuit would not be made unless engine spinning ? Not much info on net though saw a thread for a dt250 74 model where they said no headlight unless engine running re. Lighting coil and not from battery power supply directly etc. Which makes me think that also the neutral light n highbeam light circuit won't be made until engine running ?

Hope I'm correct, would sure make the wiring a easier n hassle free job than I had expected.

[JADERD]

Another note, the guy said might not be earthed enough.

From memory there are 3 earths, battery direct to frame, one near oil reservoir n one on coil bolt, now all o these are directly onto the powdercoated frame, so only getting earthed I guess through the PC or due to the bolt thread going into frame.  Is this good enough ? Seeing everything that works is bright n good o should i wire wheel away the PC on the earth points so touches bare metal ?

Cheers

..... Where are you doc ? I hope to wake up tomorrow to your brilliant answers

[JADERD]

Got some feedback from doc which included the answers i was hoping for in that headlight wont work unless motor running, and also some advice re. neutral light and front brake switch which is great.

will post up on how i go at checking things out during the week incl thoughts on new helmet

[JADERD]

Ok, in bed on the iPhone happy a Larry.

I have everything working except headlight components as engine not running yet.

Long story short the problem with the neutral light and front brake was my error, on first inspection the other day I found a broken brown wire so I joined it, thing is that brown wire was two separate brown wires that had pulled away from a brown wire splitting into 4.

So in the mean time I had stripped majority of old tape off loom, undid every taped join / solder to inspect and retap, attempted to remove neutral globe with the globe breaking in fingers, so I replaced the bulb and holder with spare light that used to be for tacho, then went to test old tacho bulb In indicator light socket as I know that works.... And indicator bulb broke too, so replaced that with old speedo bulb and holder lol.  So atleast they are both nice new ones and not rusted together now. 

Quite glad I have done all this now as I know all joins/ soldering is good.

Horn dead couldn't get it to make any sound even directly onto a torch battery ad adjusting screw and nut so I'll buy another.

Very happy I went out for that last 1 hr tonight and nutted out what was really a simple initial error of mine.

Will now organize the VJMC inspection for ASAP

[JADERD]

Went out this morning before work and did the fingers crossed test again of everything and it all worked which is brilliant.

Tonight i will re wrap a few places with tape then the rest of the main part of the loom running under tank and up to steering stem i am just going to place it within some wiring conduit i bought, i feel that way the wiring has the ability to move and not be caught up, i noticed once i unwrapped the old tape everything was a little more free and the original tapeing had put pressure on a couple of wires....the ones that had broken.  This way i can just put a few zip ties around the conduit and enable the wires to move within if necessary. http://89.206.185.119/images/ebay/jjc/lma_cable-protection.jpg


Also last night i covered my old scratched tool box lid with a sideburn sticker, not sure if many follow the sideburn blog or buy the magazines, i do and find them brilliant, good stories and great bikes.  So instead of using the pristine NOS tool box lid i paid a pretty penny for a few years ago i made the old one look better...7 layers of clear later and it looks good enough to me...the sticker "sunk" into where the old scratch marks were but looks good from far lol.

link to sideburn blog http://www.sideburnmag.blogspot.com/
there mags are great value A5 size high quality books and only around $10-12 aussie dollars inl. postage form UK

Question: Now as for fuel hose is it ok to use standard PVC hosing ? i had some for a water pump for garden etc, i have used it for the oil line was perfect diameter etc and figure the oil is less corrosive than fuel.  As when i went to supercheap auto and looked at "fuel" hose all it was stated on packet etc was "universal PVC hosing" which is what i got at bunnings cheap as ? or for fuel should i buy specific hose.

Cheers

a few pics below....

[JADERD]

will reassess my horn again, it may not be working as i think the ground to the handlebar is suss, handlebar mounts onto PC support now and the top clamps are PC also now etc so the handlebar wont be able to work as a ground, ill just run a wire i guess to a ground point.

Brown wire to horn constantly carries the power, then black switch wire from switch, to horn, normally gets ground out and completes the circuit when pressed but that aint happening! hopefully a fix...will see

[Doc]

Good to hear you got it all working sans the horn I'd be a little suspect of the regular PVC tubing for fuel hose. It will tend to go very hard over a short time and leak at the carb or the fuel tap. Best to use the proper 'black' rubber type fuel hose from Repco or a bike shop (not the reinforced stuff). It wouldn't be a bad idea to fit a small inline fuel filter while you're at it.

[JADERD]

Cheers doc, yeah was always going to buy a little filter.

Finished off the wiring re fitted headlight and oversize grill etc.  Had to undo whole from end of wiring first so I could feed the loom through the little hole below tank mount that wiring fits through, then below that little hole is the bendable tab for the oil filter / throttle cable.

I tested horn by earthing it then after Afew hits with screw driver then adjusting tone it was all good. Still wouldn't work from the switch so I pulled apart and fitted earth wire, then it worked even though earth wore I added wasnt connected to anything ! so im guessing it may have just needed a fiddle with or needed the wire I added to increase contact point ? Either way I just taped up the loose end of new earth wire ad tucked it away incase needed later on.

Put some ofthe conduit over it all and it looks neat.

Cleaned and polished tank, love how it came out old all weathered yet nice and shiny.... It will be the old looking part of the bike.

Next is clutch cable, though not exactly sure of it's routing, will look at pics on comp tomorrow.

Some pics below