The oxygenation of fuel is described here. Ethanol is used as one addition to achieve this. As I have written it is not good for 2 cycle mixing.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OxygenateThose Flowsticks I have had for some 16 years, and will try to find out if they are sold to the public.
To work out the octane rating of fuel without complex apparatus is very difficult (and impossible to be worked out in the field) and is conducted under laboratory conditions using a special engine with variable compression, air/fuel ratio .
http://www.astm.org/Standards/D2699.htmThere are various race fuel suppliers around the place. I would check out ELF, VP and the locally produced stuff from Fuel2Race out of Sydney that is very good and doesn't have the high sponsorship and import price tags. I have used their 100+ and 102 with great success.
http://www.racefuels.com.au/fuelsForBikes.aspThis may be helpful in describing in layman's terms additive treats of 2 cycle oils even if it discusses marine engines.
http://www.wayneswords.com/cgi-bin/wayne.pl?noframes;read=39503http://www.saltwatersportsman.com/article.jsp?ID=21011229It is wise to become mindful and informed of what you are really buying. On the weekend walking through the campsites and talking to people I came across a bottle of Shell Advance SX2 2 stroke oil. I picked it up and read the label on the back. I was rather disappointed that it said made with " Poly-Iso-Butene Synthetic base fluid" (PIB). Now it doesn't say that on their web page.
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=au-en&FC2=/au-en/html/iwgen/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/au-en/html/iwgen/shell_for_motorists/oils_lubricants/advancerange_0620.html#1It simply says "Synthetic Fortified", now when I put my dollars across the counter I am expecting to pay for a product that contains "some" % of Polyol-Ester (POE) or Poly Alpha Olefin (PAO) synthetic base fluid as the fortifying agent. Their top of the line Racing X2 contains a blend of both of these compounds.
So what you are really buying is a mineral oil that has had PIB added to it as a lubricity agent. PIB should not really be called a synthetic lubricating fluid in the same class or category as a POE, and this only confuses the consumer out there, in fact it is actually a rubber compound,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyisobutylene Advance SX2 would be seen as an equivalent performance to say Maxima Premium 2 or Motul 510. But the Maxima and the Motul also has POE in it.
http://www.maximausa.com/products/2stroke/premium2.asp so they would be better products and perhaps more expensive than the Shell which incidentally is the case. There is nothing wrong with the Advance product and will work well and I have used it, but the price difference is in the base fluid and Esters are very expensive. It is more of a fortified mineral oil rather a true semi-synthetic 2 cycle oil, and it should not state "Synthetic Fortified" anywhere on their packaging as it can mislead the buyer when choosing an oil based on quality and performance. Their Ester/PAO Racing X2 might be worth looking into more.
The argument I have is with the continued play on words and construction of sentences in their data sheets/labelling etc that if challenged in court or by consumer advocates the oil companies would win, and have plans in place to do that at any time, by the continued play on words where the judge would be so confused he would throw the case out.
I wont go into the argument of what is defined as Synthetic, but to give some analogies, is Soy Milk Synthetic dairy milk? Is Margarine Synthetic butter? Is Aspartame Synthetic sugar? Is PIB a synthetic oil?.....no they are not! They are classified as Substitutes to the real thing. In our example PIB should be listed as an additive not the BASE fluid as you only use a minor % of it.
The Maxima SuperM Injector is fine at 56CSt @ 40C as it has a very high flow rate when cold due to its higher than average VI figure of 138.
I need to clarify with a Castor oil, and looking back at the flow test I did with Castor 927, a castor may show it has the same viscosity range @40C than say Motul 800 BUT when the temperature drops to say 18C during the test it thickens up and this is due to the Viscosity Index figure (VI) being only 99 as against 135 or so with the 800. The 927 showed a reduction of flow by about 45% in a temp variation of 22C. We need to be aware of these issues so we can change our mixing procedures to best suit the product we are handling.
If I put Castrol R30, Shell Advance Super M and A747 together on the flowstick it would show similar results. Even though say A747 has thinner viscosity listed it plainly says on the bottle not to be used below 0C (32F) as at that temperature the stuff will be hard as butter.
Maicojames, the Silkolene KR2 is virtually equivalent to the other castor/synthetic blends and MJ it can be mixed at 20:1 just fine and like all Castors mix it on the spot, pour it in and ride and realise the shelf life is limited as it absorbs moisture and falls out of suspension.The A747 is the thinnest in viscosity that I can see of all the oils in this castor blend category. It must have thinner ester mixed in with the heavier castor.
I will have to double check exactly what Silkolene grade that shop had on the floor as there are variuos grades that have similar sounding names and the crosscheck the viscosity and VI if I can source a data sheet from Fuchs. I know the people from the UK and can get this information.
I am glad that things looked positive for JiGantor's bikes......your muffler packing will not get contaminated as fast and will last longer......The oil settling on the outlet is really just oil getting caught in the dead air space just around the exit and forming a deposit there.
It concerns me further when the dealer states that you MUST use a particular brand and grade of oil in a certain ratio. I notice we have some American readers of our forum, and in the US there is a law called the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson-Moss_Warranty_Act that states that if a manufacturer tells you to use say Mercury Oil in your engine for period X and that if you use any other oil then your warranty will be voided, then the manufacturer MUST give you the oil for FREE of charge. The same if you bought new Yamaha bike and the dealer says that you must use Yamalube in it for warranty purposes. Tell him to stick it if he doesnt give you the oil free of charge. This cut the BS in the USA like in your Buick you must use Quaker State.
So over here it is really a matter of ethics or principle to offer a wider range of brands and information for the rider to trial a variety of ratios as well.
And as Stevo17 found out he had great performance with the Bel-Ray H1R that is thinner than the Motul 800 he previuosly ran. I tried to buy it but couldnt find it anywhere. I am trying to be the devils advocate here Stevo but how did you know that it was Motul 800 in your crankcases? I dont know what colour the H1R is, the Si-7 is a Light Blue, the Motul800 you can see is a dark red. I know it has a high tackiness factor perhaps through fortification of some high molecular PIB.
I would also try running H1R at 20-25:1 to see how you go.
I incidently ran the BR Si-7 @ 20:1 over the weekend and it definatley smoked a lot less under acceleration compared to some other oils I used and the bike ran hard with it. Many times I looked behind me and thought, "Oh there is no smoke......this Ester stuff works!". The plug was very clean and I had the same effects on the plastic as JiGantor had. The oil came out in a vapour. I feel that days requiring riders to "burn" their expansion chambers on a bonfire to remove oil carbon deposits is in the past. Below you can see the blackness on my guard as well.
A 2 stroke engine operates under the Total Loss Lubrication principle where its lubricant gets thrown out (UNBURNT) through the exhaust system. The lubricant is then continuously replenished and its amount governed by how much the operator puts into the fuel. In the old days with cheap Group I base fluids, Bright Stock and leaded fuel the oil became OXIDISED and formed carbonaceous deposits in the exhaust and led to exhaust port blocking. After I had my expansion chamber chemically degreased by Jet-Hot Coatings before applying the ceramic coating I havent had anymore carbon build up in the unit. I have seen ports over 20 years ago up to 35% or so blocked off from the top seriously affecting performance and timing.
If there is rust in the exhaust after such a short time then 2 possible reasons : it might be put down to leaded fuels (Avgas 100 but I think the limit these days is 98 pump gas) used where the lead salts promote corossion regardless of oil film that will break down where the salts take over. I will have a look at some exhausts from some karts when I go to the tuners place next few days to borrow a flywheel puller, but these engines only see flat out running and very hot exhausts where the speed and heat of the gas stream is such that nothing would settle on the glowing red hot surfaces.
