Author Topic: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils  (Read 69224 times)

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Offline maicomc490t

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #135 on: July 29, 2009, 11:54:43 am »
Hey - bout time you showed up mister !

Everyone was worried about you being interred under your floor tiles !

Next project update is way overdue

Dave Mac  :D
VAPOUR (AKA HYDRA / HYDRO / AQUA / WET) BLASTING AND GENERAL ENGINEERING 0416074750 (or) [email protected]

DUCATI Parts wanted esp 450 R/T and other early models inc V-twins

BULTACO M49 parts wanted

Ji Gantor

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #136 on: July 29, 2009, 01:57:09 pm »
To Summarise
1 Have your engine in tip top condition
2 Install a new clean air filter
3 Install a new temp correct spark plug
4 Set your timing correctly
5 Select the fuel you intend using and purchase it fresh on the day
6 Install a new carburettor
7 Perform a spark plug test and jet the carburettor just one notch rich off lean
8 Select a pre-mix oil that has the same viscosity that the engine manufacturer recommends
9 Mix the oil and fuel together at a rate specified by the engine manufacturer in the 20:1 range
10 Perform all the maintenance that the engine manufacturer recommends
« Last Edit: July 29, 2009, 02:04:45 pm by Ji Gantor »

Ji Gantor

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #137 on: July 29, 2009, 02:01:26 pm »
At the specified engine running time strip down the top end and discover a clean non worn piston that can be reused with a new set of rings.
The bore should only require a light hone.
The big and small end bearings and the crankshaft bearings should display negligible wear as well.

The engine should run at its peak.  The added oil should keep it cool, clean and powerful.

The average rider now has a plan, funny it looks like what is written in all the dirt bike manuals I have.  Of course as we know this thread was to shine a light on the 100:1 mix and debunk that system, but I think from all that have submitted "No One in their right Mind would Feed their Engine that Poisonous Meal".

What has come out of this thread for me is riders use the oil and ratio that they have used for years.  Oils and ratios that have been associated with a seizure are dumped for a system that works, whether or not this mix keeps the engine lubricated, clean or cool.  Some may have selected the type of oil because it is new and it has some real technology backing it up by marketing (Its the best oil - just ask us!) or a system that a friend has suggested.  The reason a type of oil is used may be because it is cheap to buy or it is easy to get or because their mechanic recommended it.  Some mixes with plenty of oil work for some while not for others and some mixes with little oil work for some and not for others.  I guess it is like opinions " Everybody's got one".

Shortshift has tried his very best to teach us that "Oils ain't Oils"
Shortshift has been patient and explained all that he has accumulated over the years and for that I say "Thanks Mate".
Lozza has first hand experience working on bikes over a long time and has expanded this thread to make it one of the best articles I have ever read.

If Tech Talk was as interesting as this every thread, I would never buy another dirt bike magazine.

Ji
« Last Edit: July 29, 2009, 02:02:58 pm by Ji Gantor »

Ji Gantor

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #138 on: August 05, 2009, 07:47:39 am »
Hey Shortshift,
I mixed up 25:1 TTS yesterday and ran my new Yamaha YZ490 K for quite a while on it.
It smoked at the beginning and then cleared as the engine warmed. No oil leaking out of the muffler. The new iridium plug has a golden glow and the engine is quite crisp off idle. This engine has been rebuilt so it should be a great test.

I will run the two YZ's on 25:1 TTS at the Nationals and report back.

Ji

shortshift

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #139 on: August 06, 2009, 07:30:03 am »
Has anyone come across Kawasaki's own 2T oils? It is amazing what you come across on the shop shelves. I went into get new chains for the chainsaws and other parts and I was about to pay my bill when I looked at the oil on the shelf. Sitting pretty was one very good brand Opti2 http://opti2-4.com/html/opti-2.html in 1 & 4 litre packs that legendary riders such as Helmut "Speedy" Clasen swears by. I then saw two Pint size (473ml) bottles of Kawachem 2 Stroke Motorcycle racing oil that I have never heard of before but in the older style packaging.


http://www.kawasaki.com/KawasakiNew/Accessories2/PCItemDetail.aspx?ItemNumber=K61020022B&Reason=6&intCatalogID=1&intCatalogType=23&ProductTypeID=150&CategoryId=49
It even makes reference to the suitability for the older KX/KDX models on their website. Anyway I asked the shop owner about this as it is for motorcycles and how he came by it and he said, "Oh it was sent to us by mistake with all the other Kawasaki powered mowers and KAAZ blowers we sell" and has been sitting on the shelf for ages. I said, "But it is for MOTORCYCLES, you dont race lawn mowers......I have a motorcycle!". "Oh you have a motorcycle then just take it, dont worry about it, you buy lots of stuff from us, I hate seeing it sitting on the shelf taking up space". So I ended up with these 2 bottles of oil that are made in the USA for Kawasaki Power products that had a price tag of $11.90 a bottle. Try getting a freebee like that from your local cycle shack!

Ji, the biggest problem with articles written in magazines about lube products or any products is that in the majority of cases they are simply advertisements for a brand of product masqerading as a technical or informative article for the particular audience of the publication. In this regard then all you have is just corporate marketing and company policy that has been handed down the generations of employees who have simply listened to their predecesssor and never investigated the subject themselves. The authors of these articles are merely regional distributors for a certain brand. I have seen this with even product reviews for motorcycle tyres, exhaust systems and suspension parts where the reviews are never going to find fault with the product, and the contents of the article have already been pre written and pre approved by the supplier and then gaps filled in by the technical editor of the magazine (if one exists). As you have found out riders cannot rely on motorcycle magazines or newspapers (ie: Cycle Torque that is a very good free publication) for their technical advice and education, as they are clearly biased towards advertising.
Also thanks for the headsup on your recent run with 25:1.

The Silkolene brand has been bought up a few times in this thread, and questions asked about it, and I was waiting till I got all the answers to my questions from my contacts at this company. Silkolene have marketed their 1st class products in Australia since about 1983 and their PRO-4 4T oil back in 1984-86 was recommended extensively to solve the lubrication/overheating/oil loss issues associated with the XR250RE and other RFVC engines at the time. I recall buying 4 litre packs of PRO4 ($50 back then was huge amount of money for oil, esp when my wages back then were $200 a week) (as well as Castrol GPS) specified by Honda back then where other riders running standard Castrol Grand Prix 20W/50 (Increased from 20W/40 in 1983) were running out of oil while in the dirt due to the high volatility of the mineral oil used in GP and its equivalents.(It evaporated out of the sump when subjected to the extreme heat created in these engines) . Other 4T oils suffered viscosity shear when the VI improver broke down and you had rattly lifters and breakdown of oil flim on most engine parts. This was compounded by riders putting in car oils into their bikes.
One fella who was parked near my car in the pits the other weekend had one of these problem bikes and I saw him waving a pack of Castrol Magnatec 10W/40 around and I noticed just as he finished topping up his bike with this oil. I said to him that you need a 20W/50 grade for these and that oil will shear down and is too thin for those hot running engines, "Oh well this is what I had sitting around". I just thought that i was glad it wasnt my bike and went back on preparing my own machine.

So back to 2T oils, especially the Silkolene grades this time round, and over the last 25 years they have come, then gone then come back in recent years when Fuchs from Germany bought them out. From what I have seen with their merchandising and dealer support it is a woeful effort and the brand really needs to be managed by a dedicated motorcycle parts distributor who understands the motorcycle market and the rider.

They have 3 grades of 2T available, PRO-2SX SAE 30 100% Ester(Motul 800 equivalent), Comp 2 Plus a lighter 100% Ester and Comp 2 Premix (a heavy SAE40 part synthetic).
 
One of their selling points is "Electrosyntec Technology" that is splashed all over their data sheets and packaging. This may sound impressive to the guy who fronts up to the shelves with many brands on offer and sees this and it is like the pack jerking off at him persuading him to lift a pack of PRO2SX off the rack instead of something else. But what does this really mean and is it something that is specific to the Silkolene brand. Well it isnt really, Polyol-Esters (POE's) or lets just refer to them as Esters are the "New Age" Castor oils with regards to film strength.  I mean full marks to Silkolene for alerting the rider about the virtues of Ester oils, where most others havent, but it needs to be explained clearer to the rider and not used solely as a "Unique Selling Proposition". Clever selling tool!! but how about educating the poor punter why this is so and how it benefits his motorcycle.

How many of you actually go through the trouble to obtain a Technical data sheet on the oil you are using or about to use? Perhaps your "authority" is simply what your pal is using or what has been used in the Winners Circle.

Some research was conducted in around 82' in using plain Vegetable or Canola oil as a 2T lubricant. It mixed with fuel well like castor oil did, lubricated reasonably well but oxidised in the engine and created greater deposits.............I recall the author saying that the exhaust fumes created an atmosphere the same as a Fish and Chip Shop.

Castor oil, Canola Oil or any vegetable oil is a referred to as a Natural Ester. But what works best these days are the synthetically refined Esters used in modern Ester 2T motor oils.  And this is what Silkolene have cleverly campaigned and betted on to differentiate themselves from the rest of the crowd. The PRO2SX data sheet says "It is formulated using ester synthetic components which provide the exceptional anti-seize properties usually associated only with castor-based oils". It goes on and says, "Some oils can only achieve race performance at the expense of long-term engine cleanliness (Hinting at castor oil here!), but PRO 2 SX is particularly resistant to ring-sticking and plug fouling problems" "Electrosyntec uses electrostatic forces to bond low friction molecules to stressed metal surfaces, releasing hidden power and ensuring long-term performance retention". Bloody hell, "Hidden Power"........I wonder what else is hiding in the dark smelly recesses of my 2 smoker!  The data sheet also states, "Do not mix with Conventional Oils"...........Well what the hell is a conventional oil these days?.........maybe if you are old enough it may mean some 70's mineral/bright stock formulation, but today the rider under 40 would not be able to interpret that ........Sometimes these tech sheets are written by fresh female University graduates in my experience!............

So is this the door slowly closing for Castor oils? Is the market for castor oils really only governed & supported by the Die Hards in the market like the Lozza's and other engine builders/racers (who follow results from the 60's/70's) who perhaps need to try a bottle of Motul 800, Silkolene Pro2SX, Bel-Ray H1R etc.......and run some tests. Is the Castor/Synthetics out there (A747, 927) a ploy to wean the diehards slowly away over time..........has the % of castor been slowly diluted with more Ester until it is all gone in the formulation?  Let me tell you the oil companies and blenders hate dealing with Castor suppliers as they are not oil or additive suppliers but commodity traders (who deal in vegetable, corn, sunflower, cotton and other edible oils) with sometimes dubiuos raw material sources and quality control. Look at the substitution rackets with Olive oil for example.

I did eventually get some quite reasonable explanations from Silkolene of their claims which echoes some of my own descriptions of Castor oil a little while ago :
"The made-up word ‘Electrosyntec’ was coined to describe the electrostatic effect which causes polar molecules to be attracted to metal surfaces. (We see electrostatic attraction, such as sticking balloons to the wall, as weak effect, but at the ‘nano’ level it is surprisingly strong due to the inverse square law.) Even in the 18th and 19th centuries clockmakers and engineers realised that some oils were more ‘slippery’ than others, but the cause of this at a molecular level was only really sorted out by Frank Bowden and his collaborators working at Melbourne University in the 1940s and early 1950s. See:
 http://www-pcs.phy.cam.ac.uk/fsp/PCSlaboratory.pdf
A particular type of molecule is very good at attaching itself to metal: A high molecular weight ester. Some esters, such as vegetable oils*, are ‘natural’ some are synthetic, but they all do it, to a greater or lesser extent; and they do not stop at one layer. (See attachments.) * Castor oil is the best!" (End of quote)

So Esters are really the future here, I still have my reservations about the "overuse" of PIB in formulations and would be disturbed if the % of Ester was cut back with PIB.
So when you see that word Ester staring at you on the pack of oil it has not been put there for nothing, it is too alert the rider of a very high quality formulation and this is what you are paying for.

Offline jimg1au

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #140 on: August 06, 2009, 07:59:28 am »
just 1 question shortshift
What oil do you think is the best to mix with methenol,and at what ratio.
cheers
jim

shortshift

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #141 on: August 06, 2009, 08:50:37 am »
http://ozvmx.com/community/index.php?topic=8466.0

Jim we did touch on this subject on this above post.............methanol (Methyl Alcohol) absorbs a lot of water and moisture when it is burnt amongst many things causing your sump or crankcase to get "rained" on by this moisture creating rust.

You need an organic oil such as Castor Oil to mix with it in a 2 stroke engine. Castor oils are soluble with methanol, ie) it mixes with it easier. I assume you are using this in a 2 stroke engine as the discussion for a 4 stroke engine would be a little different.

Castrol R30, Shell Advance Racing M, Maxima 927 are all suitable for this application. Maxima state, "When blending with alcohol it normally requires more oil"..........kart guys mix it at 16-18:1 with methanol, in a bike 20-25:1.

 Also dont keep your methanol for too long as it goes off, buy it fresh as you need it. Understand it is corrosive when left in your engine and fuel lines, so drain everything after you ride. Some people fit a drain plug in their crankcase bottoms to drain any methanol/oil mixture left there.

CamP

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #142 on: August 06, 2009, 10:37:33 am »
Has anyone come across Kawasaki's own 2T oils?


I'm pretty sure that's the same thing as Yamalube R with different dye, just repackaged.

Offline Maicojames

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #143 on: August 06, 2009, 11:14:37 am »
No it( Kawachem 2T) was mfg for them by Citgo we found out in mid 1990s. We ran it at 32:1 for years. Seems like a thinner oil-so it should be fine at 20:1 as well.
I ran into the castors soon after this, and by using Maxima's927 Castor at again 32:1, found IMHE better response on both my vintage 74 250 KTM and then near current 93 CR250R Honda. Maybe my imagination-but got holeshots by bigger margins on the Honda( damn that 93 250 had the engine to die for)-and never experienced an increase in deposits.

Next go round, want to try a thinner oil at 20:1 or 24:1. Maybe the Castrol TTS, or HR1, Maxima Super M injector, as they are more available to me . Your PE400 piston looks great.
Life is suddenly very Monaro

CamP

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #144 on: August 06, 2009, 11:49:47 am »
No it( Kawachem 2T) was mfg for them by Citgo we found out in mid 1990s. We ran it at 32:1 for years. Seems like a thinner oil-so it should be fine at 20:1 as well.
I ran into the castors soon after this, and by using Maxima's927 Castor at again 32:1, found IMHE better response on both my vintage 74 250 KTM and then near current 93 CR250R Honda. Maybe my imagination-but got holeshots by bigger margins on the Honda( damn that 93 250 had the engine to die for)-and never experienced an increase in deposits.

Next go round, want to try a thinner oil at 20:1 or 24:1. Maybe the Castrol TTS, or HR1, Maxima Super M injector, as they are more available to me . Your PE400 piston looks great.

All the OEM's change the vendors for their oils periodically as contracts expire. Who was producing oil for Kawasaki or Yamaha USA in the mid 90's is most likely not producing their oils today. It might be Citgo for a couple of years, then mobil, then someone else, but the formulas stay the same. 

What we found was that the Japanese OEM injector oils, Yamalube 2S, Kawasaki 2 cycle Racing oil and Suzuki CCI were all essentially the same thing. 
« Last Edit: August 06, 2009, 12:57:33 pm by CamP »

shortshift

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #145 on: August 06, 2009, 09:10:08 pm »
I thought I would take out my flowstick again and have a little bit of fun with it.............I did another flow test with 4 other oils I gathered up. The one furthest from the bottles is the Kawachem Racing 2T, then the BR Si-7 (same vis as TTS), a basic cheap mineral Lawn Mower grade oil, and then some ELF MOTO XT2.



The spec sheet for the ELF in the photo.........
http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/163.pdf What annoys me is when the manufacturer claims a product is an SAE30 grade and in fact it is a "Duo-Grade" 20/30............it is 75Cst @40c not around 100Cst a true 30 grade......in fact closer to a 20 (68Cst)..............so riders who cannot find their usual brand or want to change select the XT2 but in reality it is lighter (which is not a bad thing anyway). ELF is as good as the other European brands out there.

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/160.pdf Their top of the line oil is actually a true 30 grade but they list it as a 40 grade. It is comparable to Motul 800.

What also is annoying is when there is inconsistencies between the use of different test methods to state a Flash Point. This is very important for 4T oils due to oil volatily out of the sumps, but in a 2T oil it is relevant to things like deposit formation and used to determine how cleanly an oil will burn out of the engine. On the data sheets for the ELF Sport Comp 2 the lab guys use the ASTM D92 Open cup test and state a FP of 276C and for the Moto 2XT tech they use the ASTM D93 Closed Cup test that only lists an FP of 108C. Why the inconsistency as any race mechanic trying to make a choice will get misled and potentially choose one oil over the other when the figures would be almost similar.

http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/6323.pdf  Trust the French to come up with something like this after their high reputation with colognes................It is actually a 4T oil and perhaps made for queers riding around the Champs Elysee' on their multicoloured scooters with chrome headlight surrounds doning designer handbags to attract their kind. An Ester/PAO oil perfumated with a castor scent!! What will they come up with next...........but only the French! Be careful when travelling through Paris.

Oh yeah they also make one for 2 strokes.......http://www.lubadmin.com/upload/produit/FichePDF/lang_1/4853.pdf

These photo's simply show a comparison again with a few oils out there.............I was curious about the Kawasaki product how its flow compares to the rest so that i can determine the manufacturers philosophy. I wanted to also test a typical TCW-3 dedicated outboard oil and show people how fluid the product is but didnt have any on hand............it would have hit the end of the flowstick due to it being diluted while everybody else would have been maybe halfway down the track.

On a pack of 4T oil it ALWAYS lists the SAE grade like 10W/50 or 10W/40 etc but rarely is this seen as important for 2T oils.

Kendall Oil packaged oil for Harley since the early 90's and still do I believe made of the superior Pennsylvanian Napthenic crudes. I heard rumour Sunoco in the USA is now due to Phillips/Conoco Oil buying them out. Mobil pack Honda oil and Golden Spectro for BMW motorcycle.

Hopefully riders will excercise more care when selecting and/or changing brands/grades of 2T oil. There are so many great brands out there including Spectro, Repsol, Torco, Amsoil, PJ1 etc that may not be all available in our local market.
« Last Edit: August 06, 2009, 09:12:33 pm by shortshift »

Offline LWC82PE

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #146 on: August 07, 2009, 12:49:36 pm »
Wanted - 1978 TS185 frame or frame&motor. Frame # TS1852-24007 up to TS1852-39022

colmoody

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #147 on: August 08, 2009, 08:17:52 pm »
I'll be honest, I started out reading this thread but soon realised it was way over my head. I was interested but could'nt get on the same wavelenght as many/most of the tech heads whom were contributing to this topic. I have continued to scan the posts from the start and take some solace from shortshift's latest post on this subject. Re Amsoil, I have been running Amsoil 2T (red) at a mix ratio of 30:1 in my Lawn Mower (suzuki motor, 18 years old and 1 spark plug only)  Komatsu brushcutter (25 years old and have'nt touched) Sachs Dolmar Cainsaw (25 years old and has had a carby kit and a couple of plugs in that time) Stilh Blower (15 years old and have'nt touched) 1974 Maico 440 (has had one bore in 35 years).

Yes I understand there is a whole heap of variables that would contribute to the above but with out boring you to death with how much work/hours each have done it would take a power of convincing to get me off Amsoil.

As an aside I also run both Amsoil and Neo Engine oils (ester based) in all the four stroke engines (approx 5) around the place and likewise would not be in a hurry to change brands.


Ji Gantor

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #148 on: August 18, 2009, 10:21:51 am »
My YZ490 loved the Castrol TTS at 25:1.
It ran great and never missed a beat.
There was hardly any sign of white smoke coming from the pipe the whole time at the nationals.
There was no oil oozing from anywhere.
Overall I am pretty impressed.

Ji

shortshift

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Re: Dispelling the mystery between BR MC1 and other 2T oils
« Reply #149 on: August 18, 2009, 02:28:05 pm »
Great news Ji, I am happy for you (and your bike especially).

I also was just collecting all my receipts for my monthly bookeeping and came across the receipt for the oils I bought to conduct the oilflow tests.

I didnt really care about the differentials in cost between similar products at the time but I had a closer look today and I need to comment that it really opened my eyes.

On one receipt, from the same shop, the Motul 710 was $35.95 a bottle (A few bucks cheaper than 800), the Bel-Ray Si-7 was $26.95 and the Castrol Power TTS was $23.95. My view is that the Si-7 was developed to match the TTS, and you can even see this in the flow test.

Now, all these products are on a similar/equivalent whatever you want to call it category.........but the price range is vastly wide. Whose pocket is the extra $12 going into? Is it distributed evenly between the importer and the retailer?
Is the 710 worth the extra slug? ...........I will let you make that decision after having read the many posts on this thread.