Project Assembly

[Ji Gantor]

Pack the lower bearing with grease.
Grease the steering post.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Dave Mac will like this part.

The steering bearing preload nut has two notiches out of it. This requires a special tool to turn it. I don't have the time to wait for one to be delivered so I found some water pipe and dusted off the Mig welder.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Pack the top steering bearing with grease and leave on the bench.
With a rubber mallet tap the lower triple clamp into the steering head.
Place the now greased top bearing on top of the steering post and tap into position. Install the bearing seal. Start the preload nut and turn down until it holds the triple clamp in place.
Place our still hot tool on to the nut and turn until the correct preload is achieved.
To much preload will damage the bearings not enough and you will get head shake when riding.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Place the top triple clamp over the steering post and turn down the nut.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Don't forget when fitting your handle bars that we have to plug the ends.
I use pine dowle.
The new fat bars all have different internal bores so it makes it hard to buy one size dowle to do the lot, but if you have a lathe no problems.
Metal lathes will work wood.


Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The forks are next.
When you have all the parts ready to go and clean, lay them out on the bench in order they go back together.
Any new parts like my new HD rebound springs should be test fitted to see if they fit. Mine did not so out to the bench grinder to reduce their diameter.
The aluminium bushes and compression valve washers were very tight so I polished them as well.
Now every thing fits and we can assemble our forks.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

First assemble the dampener rod parts.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Place the dampener rod assembly into the hard chrome tube and fix with the circlip.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Install the new fork seals and retain with the circlip.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Prelube the fork seal and the hard chrome tube and gently insert the hard chrome tube into the lower leg.
Push the hard chrome tube all the way down into the lower leg so the dampener rod will seat into its position.
Install a new s/s socket head bolt with a brass sealing washer and tighten.
If you get fork oil leaking out the bottom remove the dampener rod bolt and coat with gutter silicone and reinstall.
pour the correct amount and weight of oil into the fork and pump it a few times to remove air from the system. Install the spring and the fork is now ready to be placed into the triple clamps.
The fork cap bolt is installed last as it pulls the fork up into a taper in the top clamp.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Back to the seat.
The new seat pan requires both brackets be manufactured.
I shaped the new rear bracket similar to the original one.
Installed the same as the front bracket.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The new seat foam needs to be test fitted and trimmed so it sits flush on the pan.
Also pinch out some foam where the new bracket bolts are.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

With spray bond coat both the foam and the pan with glue and wait until tacky.
Use a glue that does not disolve foam.
When ready join the two together.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Clamp the two together for the required time.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

This gripper seat cover I purchased was the hardest cover I have ever had to fit. The pattern created puckers everywhere.
I start by shooting a staple front and back to align the cover centrally.
Then I stretch the back from side to side and fix with more staples. I work the cover towards the front.
When everything looks good go back over the cover and add more reinforcing staples.
I use a compressed air stapler with 12mm long staples. You have to test what pressure to run the stampler at or it will just cut through the vinyle.

Ji