Project Assembly

[Ji Gantor]

I have started this topic because new parts are never just plug and play and some old parts need to be modified so they work. This should give a good look at what is required when assembling your project.

As we know the swingarm pivot pin goes dry over time and welds itself into place making it a mongrel job to get out and service.
The best solution is to provide a permanent means of lubrication, this way we can keep it working and stop it from seizing.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Place the pivot pin cap bolt into a lathe and drill a hole 5mm diameter through the centre.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Seeing how the CZ is metric we fit a M6 tap into the drill and tap a thread all the way through.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Test fit a M6 grease nipple into the cap bolt.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

So the grease does not leak out we need a sealing washer.
I turned up a brass washer as my seal and then test fitted.

Looks good.
This should allow me to keep lubricant into all the nooks and stop the pin from seizing.

Ji

[shortshifter]

nice job!

[firko]

Yeah Robert, nice job. Youve just inspired me to do the same to my Cheney. It was a nightmare removing the old siezed up pivot bolt and I don't want to go through that again. Wouldn't it be easier to just fit a grease nipple to the swingarm itself though?

[Ji Gantor]

Thank you shortshifter,
I was hoping to see you at Cooroy on Saturday.


Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Hi firko,
Thanks for the kind words.
I am going to fill the pivot pin with low temp grease so it will heat up and flow.
The swingarm has two bearing sections so I would have to install two grease nipples. This would modify the swingarm which I could not bring myself to do. The pivot pin has ports so the oil can flow to the bearings and I am going to improve them for better lubrication. The centre of the pivot pin is hollow providing a good grease reservoir. If I was to place a grease nipple at both swingarm locations this would only allow me to pump in a small amount of grease due to the very small gap between the bush and bearing.


Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The original swingarm bearings are 40mm long and have two ports and an internal gallery to distribute the oil to the outer brass bush. In the manual they are called spacers, but I think they are made of bearing steel.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

I went to my local bearing shop and asked if they could supply the swingarm bearings but the only thing they had was an "Internal Bearing Ring" that is only sold 20mm long. They cost about $10.00 each and I had to purchase 4 of them to match the existing ones.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Place one of the new bearing inner rings into your lathe and install a boring bar.
You can make a square or a tapered cut about half way through the thickness of the ring. This is going to be half of the new oil gallery.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

With a very small grinding stone in your Dremel artfully insert 4 half ports.
The original only had two so this should distribute the lubricant more efficiently.

All edges that have been worked should be deburred with 800 wet and dry sand paper before installed into the swingarm.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

From my limited experience with these pivot pins I have found that they seize on the engine mounting tube. As can be seen there are only two oil ports that service the bearings only. So to solve the seizure problem we need to do something about lubricating the pivot pin, chassis mount and engine mount interface.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

This is the swingarm and engine mount test fitted with the pivot pin.
The engine mount tube that the pivot pin passes through receives very little oil, but as the "O" rings break down this section collects dirt and water and rusts solid.
This is in my opinion the trouble spot that needs more attention.

Ji