Fixing A Wheel

[Ji Gantor]

With the wheel bearings in we can now true the wheel.
Place wheel in the truing jig and check your work. If you have spent quality time working on the rim so far the truing will not take to much time. Remove any little side ways difference and tighten nipples to specification. If you are using an old rim they some times come with their own built in buckle no amount of truing can remove this.

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[Ji Gantor]

Dampen a rag with shellite and run around the inside of the rim to remove any grease and or dirt.
Once the shellite has dried place the rim tape or band onto the rim. I usually use electrical insulation tape and give the rim 3 to 4 layers to protect the tube from sharp edges on the spokes, nipples and the welded joint.

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[Ji Gantor]

Rim locks are next.
I had to drive to four bike shops to round up this lot.
I prefer the rubber foot type rather than the CNC alloy ones just in case the alloy ones have a bur that might puncture the tube.
I also like the cap nuts because they stop dirt and water reaching the threads which seizes them on.


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[Ji Gantor]

Unfortunately nothing is plug and play.
I find that these rim lock cap nuts will not screw all the way down so break out the tap and cut the thread a little deeper. Always use a cutting compound when cutting threads. I wrap the cap nut in 5 layers of masking tape to protect the anodizing from the vice jaws.

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[Ji Gantor]

Start cutting the threads with a starter tap and finish with an end tap so the thread goes as deep as possible.
The caps now screw down all the way and are ready for use. Give the rim lock threaded rod a dab with anti-seize grease before use.
Keep the masking tape on the cap nuts until the rim lock has been tightened down so the gold stays where it should be.


Ji

[Ji Gantor]

With a sharp knife cut the holes through the rim tape for the tube valve and rim lock.

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[Ji Gantor]

Install the rim lock.
The wheel is now ready for the tyre.

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[Ji Gantor]

Mount the tyre onto the rim.
Set the tyre pressure to 15psi and leave over night. Check tyre pressure 24 hours later to see if you have pinched the tube.

Use a tyre pen to style the tyre and finish with tyre gloss.

There is a lot of work in a wheel and I am happy the front one is finished.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Rear wheel.
Dig out the spacer and assess what needs to be done.
The spacer is rusty and the large wheel bearing firmly attached.


Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Place the spacer in a vice and with a rubber mallet tap the spacer out of the bearing.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

To remove the rust off the spacer feed it into a bench grinder wire wheel.
Always wear eye protection during this process.
Depending on the tools you have use what you got.
Linish the spacer if you have a lathe, bead blast it or hand sand it with wet and dry sand paper.


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[Ji Gantor]

To prevent the spacer from rusting again I give them a coat of paint.
Clean the spacer with mineral turps and let dry in the sun, then apply a coat of etch primer.

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[Ji Gantor]

Find an appropriate socket or if you have a lathe turn up an alloy drift.
With the use of our trusty rubber mallet send the new bearing home.

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[Ji Gantor]

Replace the retaining circlip.

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[Ji Gantor]

After waiting an hour for the primer to dry apply a layer of top coat.

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