Painting Hubs before rebuild, what paint is the best ?

[Hoony]

Ok Guys, i am soon to rebuild a set of wheels, anyone used a good quality black paint for the hubs that they can recommend ?

[YSS]

Powder coating if you need colour, with blank hubs we water blast or bead blast them and then use a twopac clear lacker. They will lock good for a long time.

[crs-and-rms]

i use vht paint its hi temp i use sp-139 gm satin black then bake it in the oven looks great

[Hoony]

Thanks guys, i appreciate your input!

[cyclegod]

I use PJ1 satin black case paint baked in the oven at 110 celcius for about an hour and it looks good


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[Hoony]

Cyclegod yes it looks smick, how does it hold up to mud and crud? when you say oven i am assumming the oven at home right? i will have to plan that one when the missus Hoony is out.

[cyclegod]

Before I ride in the dirt I give the hubs a light spritz of CRC (an old trick  ) and yes just the usual home oven, not fan forced or anything fancy. I did my clutch cover and top end in there too 

[TonyB]

Do you bake it straight after its painted? or do you let it sit for awhile. What does the baking do to it?My missus is used to the cases going into the oven every now and then to get bearings in or out, but its the gearbox oil that pools at the bottom that gives the roasts an interesting flavour...

[cyclegod]

The paint takes about 20min to dry/"flash off" , this is when the aromatic chemicals evaporate from the painted surface, thats when to stick it in the oven. As much as possible do not touch the painted surfaces until the hub has cooled from its time in the oven, the baking accelerates the hardening process only. I have found that putting stuff through the oven gives a better sheen to the finished unit.

[YZ250H]

Hey Cyclegod,
So.. does baking help after the paint is untouched and say a month old

I used supercheap 2 for $5 cans.  Seems OK so far - I'll take some photos and post them.  Time will be the test of course and I am quite prepared for a disaster.  I came to this conclusion after reading the last forum where some of the guys said they used the cheaper stuff and it seemed OK.  For me $14 (or so) a can is a bit too much when you've got small children, mortgage etc etc. Worth a try .
One of the tips on the old forum was to put the spray can in quite warm water for 10 minutes before spraying your piece.  Works an absolute treat.  But you probably already knew that so I'll shut up now  .

Cheers

[TonyB]

heat the contents before using eh mmm I never knew that one, does that inprove the finnish?

[cyclegod]

I've always believed that applying heat to anything under pressure containing flammable hydro-carbons was a bad idea but if you want to try it go ahead. Just remember its 000 not 911 

[YZ250H]

Nah,  it's all good.  Don't have it boiling hot or anything, you don't want to raise the pressure in the can too much, just enough to warm the can a little.  Certainly don't apply a flame to the can .  Dry the can when you take it out of the water too otherwise when you shake the can guess where the drops go  usually only after you are almost finished .  Murphy's law is bound to strike.  I swear it goes on soooo smoothly when warmed a little.  Don't take my word for it - give it a go - what have you got to lose.  I'll take some photos tonight of my supercheap painted hubs and post 'em tomorrow.

[DJRacing]

YZ250 your correct about warming up spray cans. I always do it, and have been doing that for along time. It helps get a smooth even finish, more consistant spraying, in fact I heat up the item I'm painting too, esspecially if I'm using VHT case paint. I find that if I heat the item(only hot enough that ya can still hold it in your hands) I dont get flashing(uneven drying/curing). With VHT Case paint I dont bake it. But this is only personnel perferance, as I like a more low sheen/satin than a satin/semi-gloss finish.
In the case of heating up cans, just fill the sink with hot water (55C) and put the can in for about 10-15mins. I will sometimes use two cans if I'm painting bigger stuff and that way I always have a warm can ready to go (I alternate them in the warm water)
This is a picture of a motor I sprayed with VHT case paint without baking but I warmed the cans up first.

[Doc]

This picture?  wha picture?? who where?

My experience, the cheap paint is pretty good (I use it 'all' the time) it does chip and scratch pretty easy and sometimes fuel or chainlube solvents will remove it much to your utter dismay but, for the positives, it does touch up really well, flattens and flashes off pretty fast (the advantages of living in Sunny QLD) and lastly..it's cheap! For a full on resto? NO (it is a little tacky even though it can look wonderful and I would probably use it) for a clean snappy lookin' ride bike? YES!