Painting Hubs before rebuild, what paint is the best ?

[YZ250H]

Looks Ok, but time will tell the story I think.  I may get sick of touching up things and it may become false economy.  That's why I was asking about the baking - maybe that will improve performance .

A couple of replated bits in there too, but that's another thread !!

[pokey]

Looks nice mate

 I use ..... Septone Brake caliper paint

 Bake it in the sun for a week and ..Voila


Watch your brands as some blacks do have a colour hue

[oldscooler]

Keeping it inexpensive with good quality, try using DUPLI-COLOR "Wheel Paint". Its a very durable Polyurethane, high temp rattle can paint i've had great and long lasting success with.

Thats my tip for the day!...EJ

[ianscr250]

Hello guys
Heating the paint in warm water  helps the paint to mist when being applied from the nozzel giving it a better surface it aslo activates the paint as mentioned helping it to dry

you should never paint on cold days or straight from a cold can as most times the paint will matt of  and give a totaly lustre less finish

with baking in an oven always try not to use a gas oven   not a real good idea with a thinning agent in the paint  preferably an eletric oven on high temp for ten minutes then put the painted unit in  turn the oven off and let it cool with the painted unit in this allows the heat to penetrate the painted surface and cool of its own acord
giving a harder finish and a good lustre

[suzuki27]

Since I started to use etch primer in a can prior to painting I've had a tougher/more durable end result. Then just satin black engine black paint.Seems to adhere a lot better with the etch primer undercoat.

[Rossvickicampbell]

For MTBW I use VHT - Brake Drum, Caliper and Rotor Satin black as I prefer the Satin finish.  It is good for 490 deg C 900 deg F (more than enough) and is better than the engine paint in that it is also chemical and chip resistance.  I use a good etch primer to give a base coat and have done 3 bikes with this now and find the finish awesome.  I just use a Auto One Etch primer - nothing expensive but the VHT paint goes forever - my RM 250 Z motor came up as new.

I mean if you are going to the effort of doing a set of hubs before lacing or a motor before reassembly then make it as good as you can - I pay about $14 for the VHT paint and haven't been disappointed yet.

cheers

Rossco

[Doc]

Now I'm not being argumentative but this I'll say about the cheap paint.

I've done hubs many times using the cheap brand and they look exactly the same as factory. I've been using and testing this paint on many differing applications over the past 4 or 5 years and this is what I have found.

The finish from the can is as good as you'll get.

Coverage is not so great using the lighter colours.

The silver is crap.

The gloss black is not so great as it chips far more easilly than the satin or matt finishes.

The matt black is okay in a pinch as a mere brisk wipe will give it the same lustre as satin. Satin in turn easily polishes into gloss which is really handy for touch up's.

All the colours fade/weather badly if left in the elements. So painting the bike trailer with the stuff is a waste of time.

If you paint fuel tanks frames or covers then use gloss over or it won't last and it won't look bling.

The clear coat works/flattens well and when used over gloss or satin finish looks great and the surface is made more scratch resistant also.

I'd love to go and buy the best of the best but my budget doesn't allow. If it did then I'd be out buying PJ-1 and VHT and the likes too. With the results I've had using budget paints I couldn't ask for more. I reckon it all comes back to the prep and the curing time Here's the little TS75 donk I painted this morning using 'matt' black. They had run out of satin so me being impatient chose matt but as you can see the result isn't too bad for $3..$4 if you add in the sheet of sandpaper 

[DJRacing]

How much is VHT case paint (satin black) in a spray can worth over in Oz?  Here, a can is about $12 and I can basically spray a motor with 1 can. I consider a $12 paint job pretty fair money, but thats just my take on it.

[YSS]

Nah,  it's all good.  Don't have it boiling hot or anything, you don't want to raise the pressure in the can too much, just enough to warm the can a little.  Certainly don't apply a flame to the can .  Dry the can when you take it out of the water too otherwise when you shake the can guess where the drops go  usually only after you are almost finished .  Murphy's law is bound to strike.  I swear it goes on soooo smoothly when warmed a little.  Don't take my word for it - give it a go - what have you got to lose.  I'll take some photos tonight of my supercheap painted hubs and post 'em tomorrow.

Tried it ,and works a treat!!!!