Montesa Is Running

[runutz698]

Hey Guys Just a quick one, As of 4o'clock this afternoon the montesa is a runner, it started first kick and ran for 15min ect. So that is a good sign, also switched off like it was spose to. Well all I can say is WOO HOO. 

Now what does everyone else do for the gromet between the mikuni carby and he air box?? as the bing one is diffrent??

Also the piolt jet screw is almost all the way in but idles spot on and ran for 10-15min no probs, would guys go up a size you think??

and last but not least Thankyou to all that have helped to get the bike to this stage, Itt has been the biggest pain the ass prject I have ever done with all the problems along the way but I got there.

I will be posting a video soon as I can, still got to spray the front forks and finsh polishing the wheels but that will be easy.

Tom

[TooFastTim]

Congrats. Nice xmas pressie.

[cappra]

Tom,
 If the idle screw is located near the back,(which it is on the Mikuni)  it regulates how much air enters the circuit. If the screw is turned in, it reduces the amount of air and richens the mixture. If it is turned out, it opens the passage more and allows more air into the circuit which results in a lean mixture. If the air screw has to be turned more than 2 turns out for best idling, the next smaller size pilot jet will be needed. Might want to bump the pilot jet up one step.
If the airbox boot will not stretch over the Mikuni, might want to think about using a uni filter setup.  Easier to clean and change.
E-mail me for details.

[cappra]

Just what I was going to suggest.  I already sent him one of your adaptors, so he
should be all set.

[montynut]

Great news Tom really pleased it has come together as you have had more than your share of set backs!!
Greg

[414VG]

Great to get them up and running.... nice one matey.
Sandy

[runutz698]

Thamks Guys,

I really want to use the orignal air filter as the one I have is brand new so I might try and find a gromet that will fit. I might go to a few plumbing suplies early next week as today is my last day of work for a couple of weeks.

If I can't I will probly use the uni like Ross has used.

Will post a vid in the next week or two.

Tom

[runutz698]

Tom,
 If the idle screw is located near the back,(which it is on the Mikuni)  it regulates how much air enters the circuit. If the screw is turned in, it reduces the amount of air and richens the mixture. If it is turned out, it opens the passage more and allows more air into the circuit which results in a lean mixture. If the air screw has to be turned more than 2 turns out for best idling, the next smaller size pilot jet will be needed. Might want to bump the pilot jet up one step.
If the airbox boot will not stretch over the Mikuni, might want to think about using a uni filter setup.  Easier to clean and change.
E-mail me for details.

The idle screw is only 1 turn out, Does this mean it is spot on??

If it is your jetting settings were spot on for the Mikuni.....

[cappra]

Close enough!  They say 1 1/2 turns out to start.  I would leave it alone...
Only thing to determine is the main jet size.

[runutz698]

So what is the tricks you use for making sure the main jet is spot on??

Cheers
Tom

[cappra]

Your going to get alot of different idea's on this.  This is my quick and dirty way of getting the main jet close.
Get the engine warmed up and make sure you have enough room to get into high gear.
Run the bike up to high gear and apply full throttle.  Let the motor accelerate for a few seconds and is pulling.
Quickly roll off the throttle to the 7/8ths position.  If the motor gains power as you roll the throttle off, then the
main jet is to small and you need to richen it up a step.  If the motor staggers slightly or hesitates, then the main
jet is too large and you need to drop down a step.

[runutz698]

Ok cheers Jared, I like that one but it will invole some unreged road riding, So if it doesn't hestaite in any way it should be pretty close. Also why soe it need to be top gear?? Is so on the run down from speed u can feel it??

Rob my helper seems to think it is very very close to spot on. I just want to do a few cecks to make sure.

If you have any others throw them in the bowl, as I am open to doing a few diffrent ones,

Also Jared what is your sugestions for running in??

Tom

[cappra]

High gear is used as there is less chance of a false reading when in high.  No torque feel to fool you!

Engine break in is another can of worms! everybody has their own opinion.
Here is my way, right or wrong! 

1) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature.  Don't allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

2) Let the engine cool completely.  You want the engine to be dead cold. Longer the better.

3) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature. Again, don't allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.

4) Let the engine cool completely again.  Cold, Cold Cold!

5) Start the engine with the bike on a stand and allow the engine to come up to operating temperature. Do not allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running), take the bike off the stand and put it in gear. Take it for a ride. During this ride you want to keep the engine under a load at all times. Do not coast. Do not let the bike idle. Do not allow the engine to stay at one RPM. Riding on a mild slope is fine for this, as is slightly dragging the rear brake the entire time. Do this for about 15-20 minutes. Then shut the bike off.

6) Let the engine cool completely.Cold, Cold, Cold, again!

7) Re-torque the head and base nuts.

Go ride!

The cool-down steps are crucial to this operation. You must let the engine cool completely for the break in process to work properly.
I do 4 or 5 heat up and cool down cycles.  Do at least 3.

[runutz698]

That seems to make sence and I have always put the new motors under load, Do reckon it would make any diffrence if I did the riding in 5min intervals?? then let it cool down just so I don't piss off the neighbours as I want it ready to ride when I take it out for the first trip...

So do all the warm up cool down ect. then do the riding 5min in the morning 5min the arvo over 2days??

Tom

[cappra]

Do it all in one day or spread it out over a week.  Won't matter, as long
as you stick to the plan!  Cooling down period would depend on your temp
there.