Montesa Is Running

[runutz698]

So what is the theory behind the cooling down period?? After thinking about for a little bit over a beer yesterday afternoon, I would of thought that it would shine the bore whilst sitting there idling for so long??? (My monty ran on it it's stand for about 10min to check everything and didn't even get hot)

As when you put a motor under load it actually pushes the ring out due to air preasure. I then went and asked one of my good friends who is 90years old who was a race mech and still restores bikes for a meusum here in australia, and he comfirmed that load on a motor is what will push the ring into the bore.(He also commented that the monties are built like rolls royces, as the conrod is supported at the top no the bottom in the same fashion). He also said that you should run about half a tank of riding but then after that open it up for short bursts as this will stretch the new conrod and also push out the little lip at the top of the bore so that later you will get higher RPM.

The guy who is a pro engine builder and raced when he had time, reckons Just ride it and take it easy for the first tank and a bit then slowly just open it up more and more and you want have a problem.

Also what fuel mix do you all run, I think I am going 25:1 200ml of oil to 5ltr fuel.??
As I think this will be the safest mix. Also prem or nornal unleaded

So at this point I am very confused!!!!!

There has to be a politicly correct answer..........Doesn't there LOL

You guys have all got monties and already running them so I just want to get all your opions, as I am still newbie.....................................................

Tom

[bigk]

Hello Tom,
25: 1 is too rich IMO. I use Belray MC1 @ 40:1 with zero problems and have used it at 50:1 with no problems as well. Any good quality oil will be fine, just not something with a picture of a lawn mower on the bottle. Jareds way of running in is pretty much the text book way. We usually do the warm up cool down thing a couple of times, but after that we generally go racing on them and belt the shit out of 'em! Wiseco pistons can be difficult and warrant a more precise run in period. Use premium unleaded.
Cheers,
K

[cappra]

Please reread step #3. <quote>don't allow the engine to run at one RPM at all. Constantly vary the RPM and do not allow the engine to idle. When then engine reaches operating temperature (about 3 to 5 minutes of running time), shut it off.<quote>

[cappra]

We use Golden Spectro mixed at 32 to 1.  We also use the lowest octane race gas.
not because it is that much better, but it is free of all the crap that they mix in with
pump gas such as enthanol and MTBE (whatever that is!)  Also, most race gas
is fuel and can be stored for long periods of time without going stale.

Also, please use a transmission oil that is rated GL-4  GL-5 rated lube
is not good for the bronze bushings in the transmissions of Montesa's.
Gl-4 trans oils is a bit harder to find, but the GL-5 will eat up any brass
or bronze in a motor.

[runutz698]

Thank Big K, yeah Jared what are the oils as the case says 300cc but after having it apart it seems that it could hold alot more than thet.

What oil do I put in the clutch is that critical?? What did you use on the 360 Big K

And what oil in the box??? Big K??

I reckon that 300cc is not enough, the trans case is huge......

Tom

[montynut]

300cc in primary drive - SAE 20 is specified (I use plain old fashion auto transmission fluid)
500cc in transmission - Shell Omala 72 is specified (I use plain 80 gear oil, does anyone suggest otherwise)

Total 800cc

high quality Semi Synthetic two stroke oil specified for air cooled race engines 32:1 (presently Mobil)- I use nothing less than premium 98 fuel and stick to one brand.

Thats my preference anyway

I beleive Cappra's method of heat cycling an engine is very good for breaking in a totally new engine as you have. Just rings and /or piston takes just some light riding. I would say there are just as many break in procedures as there are engine builders.

[cappra]

Not too picky on the clutch oil.  ATF, modern two stroke tranny oil, or
motor oil.  Whatever works best for you.  All steel plate clutch's, so your
not going too hurt anything.  In the transmission, I have been using Penzoil
Gearplus GL-4 manual transmission oil with good results.

[holeshot buddy]

hands up everyone who has
at least once ran there
bike in during practice
on a race day

[Hoony]

my hand is up

[Big John]

I try to take it easy running the bike in. But after about 5min I can't help myself.

[Lozza]

Tom,
Don't you listen to this 40 and 50:1 nonsense , nothings changed with oils in 30 years(despite what they say on the bottle) so what was best back then is still the best now.Still nothing come anywhere near caster based oils(R30, Maxima937, Agip Kart) for low friction and  engine protection. No constant throttle and cool down is a must during break-in that is not an old wives tale or something that varies between engine builders. I go 1/3 throttle 5 mins 2/3 for 5mins then go for the doctor.Have ran them in on a dyno as well.

[OSSA PHANTOM]

 Tom,
  I have to agree with Lozza, I run golden spectro and 20:1. I have no problems running this rich and I know I won't fry anything. I use bel ray 80wt in the primary and change it after every race. cheap insurance.

[mx250]

I use bel ray 80wt in the primary .....

[runutz698]

OK
Well thanks all for you input I will do the warm up and cool down it has been run for a total of about 10-15min doing that already just for test purposes, But after this time it didn't get really hot like the other bikes i have like a IT490 ect. I will look at the gear oil the clutch will be fine I think I am going to go the Penzoil that Jared is running as I like that brand oil.

I also need to sort out the air filter as it is running bare at the mo but I will get it working in the new year with my custom made boot which is currently underway. I must say that the correct filter will be much better on the bike.  The idle jet screw will probly need to be unscrewed half a turn when I put the filter on. The main jet seems spot on thow revs out nicely and quickly.(And sounds like it has got some Ba^ls)

Thanks again guys the video will be up by the end of the week of the running bike!!! Just to share.

Tom

[runutz698]

Jared Just been to the shop there was only 1 oil on the shelf that was GL4 SAE80 so I brought it,

http://www.nulon.com.au/products.php?productName=SAE_80_Smooth_Shift_Manual_Gearbox_and_Transaxle_Oil

What does everythink will this be ok?? in trans and clutch??


Tom