A continuation of the DS/PE/RM/TM/RV/TS80 mini vinduro project

[Doc]

never thought of that frostype..would kill 2 birds by making it even closer in appearance to it's big brothers and it'll also get rid of a bashplate from my shelf

whipped off the top end for a quick optic and whilst the bore and piston etc are just great exhibiting just a little blowby and wear the previous owner upon assembly followed the gasket sealer instuctions to a tee. Apply sparingly to the gasket it states it doesn't say anything about 'not' applying it liberally to everything else in sight obviously when brains were handed out he thought they were milkshakes and asked for an extra thick one I really hope he only ever delved into the top end

[frostype400]

Indicators would be easy to do aswell and don't appear overly big on the bigger bikes so would probably look perfect and a quick pull throttle and if you could attach a similar combo spanner near your front light that would look pretty cool too id be trying to find a plastic cap that looks like a pe one with the long hose it should come up a pretty good looking bike thanks Michael.

[Doc]

mmm, won't worry about indicators or the tool on the fork leg as the B model didn't come with those items frosty I did however fit a TS75 stator to it last night just incase as the lights will need to be assisted at low speeds, the DS80 had lights but no charging system or battery so I image at low speeds she'd be pumping out about 2 candle power or less a little battery will fix this as it'll have a brake light circuit fitted also which it didn't have originally. Jeez I gotta go..burnin' daylight! will have a look for a bashplate when I get home  

[cyclegod]

mmm, won't worry about indicators or the tool on the fork leg as the B model didn't come with those items frosty I did however fit a TS75 stator to it last night just incase as the lights will need to be assisted at low speeds, the DS80 had lights but no charging system or battery so I image at low speeds she'd be pumping out about 2 candle power or less a little battery will fix this as it'll have a brake light circuit fitted also which it didn't have originally. Jeez I gotta go..burnin' daylight! will have a look for a bashplate when I get home  

If you aren't running indicators Chris then all you will need for the lights is a regulator/rectifier and a battery eliminator (basically a big capacitor that provides a current resevoir for sudden increases in use like when you apply the brakes you don't want the lights to dim) they're relatively cheap and take up less space than a battery.

[LWC82PE]

dont really need a rectifier or battery or battery elimintor. you can run everythin straight AC. i will go dig up the original DS wiring diagrame for you. should be able to run the standard 15 watt? headlight globe. which would be fine if you deont intend to ride at night for any length or time.

[cyclegod]

dont need a rectifier or battery or battery elimintor. you can run everythin straight AC. i will go dig up the original DS wiring diagrame for you

NO YOU CAN"T if you miss a gear and rev the shit out of the engine it will blow every 6v globe thats ON. A mate of mine made this ridiculous claim before and I unplugged his rectifier and let him rev his engine and sure enough every bulb blew. You may get away with just a regulator but most act as a half wave rectifier anyway and the battery simply becomes a smoothing capacitor.

[LWC82PE]

on a bike with no AC regualtor fitted as standard eg a PE or early DS, if you have the correct wattage bulbs as per original spec and wiring and switches are in good order you dont even need a AC regulator (they never came out with them). take a look at any electrics on a PE and you will see this. as soon as you start fitting a full bridge rectifier (to make DC) to any low output system you will staight away loose about a third of the original source AC power. so if you have about 30 watts comming from stator, if you rectify that whole lot you will be left with about 20watts. combined regulator rectifiers are usually found on bigger trail and road bikes when they have larger capacity 12 volt alternators.
6 volt half wave rectiification is different again. eg on a TS the battery coil has such a low out put, it just puts out a tiny trickle current to charge the battery and this is just fed through a single wave rectifier.

agree the no regulator system is a poor design but if everything is in order and as per the book there should be no issues.

at the very least you can use a AC regulator which is just a glorified Zener diode and dumps excess power to earth. unless you need to run DC components eg blinkers/horn then you dont need to rectify any part of the circuit. a brake light can be connected to work AC fine.

lights too dull at low revs are either just because the globe is a very low wattage anyway or the globe fitted is too high wattage, and there is not enough power from the stator


ive got 78 DS 80 factory wiring diagram but not TS75. since you were going to use the TS stator you would want the wiring for that bike which i dont think i have

[LWC82PE]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/35710-41600-Tail-Light-Assm-PE250-1977-79_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10066QQihZ015QQitemZ250323637037QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[Doc]

I was already to have a decent bid on that till I saw his shipping prices and policy Leith. Nice price for the actual item but I won't give that seller a red cent I have very strong veiws on what I consider decent etiquet and the seller of this item shows none at all. A blantant profiteerer and yes while it maybe his business he'll get none of mine. Thanks though, just the thing I'll be fitting but I'll find something locally for much less even if it's simply from the Hella catalogue. And don't worry about the wiring battery wiring diagram or battery elimators as I have the situation in hand. It's a simple circuit with a 6n6-3b battery and a little rectifier ala TS models. I 'do' wish to run the battery as unlike the PE or TS series I'd like to be able to power up the lights even if the engine is not running. The battery fits a neat little kawa 125 battery carrier I have and this slips into the slot where the oil res used to live so it's all non issue really

[frostype400]

Yeah thats happened a lot to me doc it doesn't matter how good a part is some people sting you for postage i got a whole box of yamaha bits for $20 us and have had others tell me it will be $40 for one part but its not right to deliberatly overcharge someone for postage and i wont buy something if its not fair postage no matter how good or rare it is

[LWC82PE]

are you making it pre mix?

[Doc]

yeah I don't like people making money from postage Frosty, the price of the postage + the package or bag it goes in is all you should pay for unless the seller only sells 1 item a week. It's not as though my little parcel would be the only reason they'd be going to the post office so to charge a handling fee is in my opinion a very poor decission. It's only an old bike part after all and another will eventually come along and if it doesn't well that's when I'll simply make something. I won't come to the party with bidding on items like TM mag covers and such and if worst comes to worst I'd bling up a TS cover and fit that and the cost would be absolutely zac and I get exactly the same results. I could never be a restorer as I'm not anal enough, if something fits and it works how it should then it stays no matter what it came from initially

Leith, yep premix, no slinger plate shit to worry about with the DS80 as it a direct decendant from the RM80B sharing nearing everything. They only pump oil into the inlet tract and not an ideal method in my veiw so it's history. No oil res with the bike anyway and I've already made a nice alloy plate to cover where the pump was so it's all good. Stops the bloody tanks rusting out too

[Doc]

 
I was lazy so the motor was rubbed back and painted in the frame
 
So the Phoenix DS/PE/RM/TM/RV/TS80 rises from the ashes costing a grand total of $60 including the parts coming airmail the seat is not far off but still hunting an airbox and RM80B/C sidecovers. To complete the mini picture the fork lowers, hubs and footpegs will all cop a splash of satin black and I'll wire up the lights not to mention buy a chain and new grips and paint the bars in either black or silver ..still undecided



doesn't really look too much like a mini PE I know but if you use your imagination and picture it in yellow like the pic below it starts to look better no idea what it will ride like as the geometry is all up the shite now..oops minor issue

(Sorry Brad, I just got a little side tracked but yours is next )

[frostype400]

Hi Doc looks good did you find a bash plate?

[PERM250]

hey chris    how about black hubs like the 250b and have you ever seen a  tm75a?