89 KDX200F

[Mick D]

I expected the pipe would be like all others and have some sort of twin wall or mesh.
It is very heavy, but the thing is I haven't put an endoscope down it.

I should have said the heavy carbon layer is actually where I can easily see, that is; in the beginning of the pipe header and cylinder exhaust port. So I expect the PV ands its drive will be toast.
There is a huge amount of carbon. There shouldn't be so much carbon there for such small Kilometers.

I am liking the cutting open method best I think.

[Mick D]

The first thing that disappointed me was when I did the wheels and tyres.
I couldn't turn the front wheel bearings by finger.
When I knocked the bearings out I found them full of rust and maybe dust?
There were seals on the outer of the bearings, but not on the inside. One of my pet hates.
On a road bike maybe, but a bike that goes through creeks and gets running repairs, service, axles out and in, out in the field crud?   
Road race bike to remove a poofteenth of drag? OK Maybe.

But what do you think has more drag, a couple of well greased neoprene seals or a bearing that has rusted or has grit in it?
No question for me. Seals both sides of wheel bearings please.

[Mick D]

I am chasing electrical faults.

I found this whilst checking continuity and cleaning connectors


How could a mainstream manufacturer think this is acceptable?

These are dirt bikes, enduro bikes running through water mud and then being washed etc.

Does anyone  think it is OK to put electrical connectors under the rear guard? where it is continually subjected to the slop off the rear knobs?
I think the wires from lights etc should be long enough to continue on to be able to make the connection to harness above the rear guard and under the seat.

[Mick D]

I can change a crank ignition seal on a Maico in 15 minutes.
Engine remains in bike.
Lay the bike over on its left side, screw off ignition cover.
Mark stator position, remove from position but leave wired. Just wrap in rag.
Screw puller into rotor, pop.
Prise out seal.
Put sealant on new one and push in.
Screw on Rotor, Stator and cover. Do it in ten minutes if you want to put a hundred bucks on it.

So this is the KDX set up

[Mick D]

Why would they do such a thing? Certainly isn't necessary.

I suppose it makes a dealership attractive to own though?

Yes sure mate, we can replace that $15 seal for you. It will cost you a thousand bucks though 

 

[80-85 husky]

stop whinging and start spinning spanners there is a massive discord btw mx bike made road legal as per maico - husky etc vs road bike made to go off road like the kawa. your bike is a road trail-aimed at the much larger market of road riders that do a little off roading now and then. this is where the bucks are for the jap manufacturers. In Aus at any time there are a couple of thousand or so committed offroad/ mxers looking for a real competition performance bike while there are tens of thousands wanting a bike that looks like a real race bike but has smooth power, soft suspension and good lighting...welcome to dual purpose world. the other model is the racer without all the stuff on it. why have I written all this? Im still asleep!!

[Mick D]

Funny, I woke up this morning thinking exactly the same thing. Time to just get on with it. I think I have been trying to draw a comparison and defence with my Open XR projects. All bikes have pros and cons, and some do somethings better and worse than others. Horses for Courses. I like all bikes except Chinese pit bikes but I do not like having to do a massive amount of work and associated costs to change a $15 seal that should only take 15 minutes to do. And an expensive PV arrangement NLA but completely rooted because of an overdose of carbon from an overdose of 2t oil. From an obviously failed oil pump and or design. All on a bike that has less than 4,500 klms on it. No actually I am fuking pissed

On the other hand, I am that keen on a riding solution, that I have gone and pulled the engine out of the E and put it in the compliant F chassis. It will be a while before I can find or make all the bits for the F engine or to arrive. In the mean time I must have rego where I ride and that will hopefully make it happen.

We are all time limited. Ironic that I will have to abandon it now to prep a different pre90 bike without a rear disc for next weekend.

[b490]

 You should have bought a Husky 

  Regards ,
                  Steve

[80-85 husky]

I just spent 3 hrs prepping for this weekend. changed gearbox hoil, cleaned airfilter, chased down airleak..loose manifold screw (PHEW) pulled out backwheel and greased brake pivot, cleaned shoes, whipped on a new rear hoop $80 bucks for a 120 100 18..woo hoo slipped it back together then pulled the front wheel did the brake pivots etc, welded a small spacer to the axle to replace the 6 washers ive had stuck in there since 2010 and reassembled. quick flog up the road to assess brakes etc all good..just need to remember to drop the 30 psi in the back tyre.....

[Nathan S]

$220 still stands.

You've gotta remember that a Kawasaki crank seal should last about 15 years - so about 20 times as long as a Maico part...

[relfy]

Hello !!!!! Mick you know I am 1st in line . lol

[Mick D]

Hello !!!!! Mick you know I am 1st in line . lol

Yeah Relfy, I am so glad I didn't sell it to you now. I would have felt terrible and certainly then obliged to sort it for you.

It will be a good thing. A very good thing, eventually.
The power valve will never fail again and it will be able to be checked that it is all free and working in a second before riding when I am finished. 

[Mick D]

I do love riding it. The standard brakes were terrible and rear was nearly non existent when wet.
Changed the compound, that made a considerable improvement, but they are still no where near as good as the brakes on the 500XR , front or rear.
And I have fitted them with the same compound(brand).
I will probably put a XR front twin spot on it eventually.

[relfy]

 

[Mick D]

$220 still stands.

  I did consider for brief moment about 4 or 5 minutes about cutting my losses, but nah it is cheap rego(Under 226cc, so a 2t is the go there for me). I will sort it and it will be a great little bike.

You've gotta remember that a Kawasaki crank seal should last about 15 years - so about 20 times as long as a Maico part...

Nah, no, that's a long way from being true. The Kawasaki has Nitrile seals, which start going hard(loosing elasticity) from the day they are made. Regarless of whether they are on the shelf or installed. The bearings are perfect in this(lots of oil  ) , so quite simply the seal has failed from age, as has the one in the E model


Not as bad and still runs well. I will use it while doing the F engine, then swap, then do the E engine.

The original aqua coloured Maico seals are actually a silicon base seal and never go hard. You can build your Maico, Store it for a hundred years. Then fuel it up and away you go. Put the correct grease in between the two lips and they will last a very long time.
People stupidly replace them when they are not worn out, with the black Nitrile ones.
Although silicon seals don't stand up very well to fuel blends, like methanol, ethanol blends(E85), etc.
So another reason to stick with BP98 if you are just sticking with Bowser fuel for Maicos with silicon seals.