Dirt track weapon....well sort of..

[LWC82PE]

can you sent me the link of old listing if you have it in your internet history? better photos would be good.

[cyclegod]

Listings only last 3 months and that pipe was listed at least six months ago 

[LWC82PE]

i really want to keep the stock side plates so i guess that pipe is a no go, so that means i have to keep the stock pipe. i dont know anyone who would be making modern type chambers for TS's. if there was i could have one made that still alllowed the side cover to be used but a custom would be very expensivbe i imagine? i dont really know what a pipe would cost to have made

[Doc]

Greg, go a good pod filter for now but in dusty or extreme wet conditions you'd be best served with a shroud or box of some type to keep it half clean. Not only that, these motors seem to respond better drawing from still air. I found the ER gear ratios pretty close to right excepting they too suffer the same fate as the TM early RM in having only 5 cogs to play with. They simply run out of puff a little too soon. With a fresh top end if your TS doesn't pull the front wheel off the ground 1st thru 3rd under hard acceleration on bitumen in stock trim then she's a little down on power. I've had a few of these reed valved models and they all went exceptionally well and quite snappy after rebuilds.   

CG, that pipe does look like centre port alright but still the ad is very misleading on the models it suits. I'd be going a down pipe on an early model and one could seriously think of doing the same on an ER and thus retaining the sidecovers    I slipped Pokey a pair of TM125 gear clusters but still the problem exists in the early model of the pressed gear spinning on the imput shaft when too much HP is applied. Have heard very little success in fixing this issue, even after pinning and welding.  I like the idea of the TM185, being a small bloke I find even the TM250 feels too heavy and I'd surely get a 185 around just as quick (slow) if not quicker (a bit faster than slow) and not need an oxygen bottle after the fact

[Lozza]

Pipe decision is pretty simple, keep the standard side plate, airbox, pipe, etc or throw it away and put a proper efficient pipe on there.I'll put a few pics up whe we start the build, I'll have a gearbox to look at soon and welding the gear on will make the problem worse. I would think nickel bronze would be much better, silver solder would be worth a look because of it's low melting point.

[Doc]

the welding was only spot welding Loz and used as a last resort..it failed too..I believe if it was keyed like the primary drive gear this could be the end of problem..and down pipes on everything! I used to hate em' once and only now do I see the beauty 

[gerpster]

Thanks Doc.
Yeh my old man (mechanic) always reckon if ya keeping it stock then don't mess with what the manufacturer has come up with..they get to do more research than us!!! (but yes they still can produce crap sometimes......   )))  So the stock air box is back on minus the snorkel and a new filter. It is running better but the carby is still playing up....hmmmm...needs more work....

[Doc]

Greg I agree with your old man 'leave it stock'  but, you are allowed to tidy up what the factory doesn't. Fit some decent reeds, match up all ports and gaskets and drill a few more or enlarge the inlet hole in the airbox. Removing that dorky snorkel is a good start.

I 'may' have a surplus ER carb here, will need to look, if all else fails I can send it down, try it, see if it fixes the problem and then take it from there..if by chance it's not surplus you are still welcome to try if you wish to eliminate the problem but you'd have to pay the postage both ways which is half the price of another carb anyway 

[Lozza]

Sorry to diappoint but a tuned engined needs plenty of air especially something that pulling some rpm.EG and RGV 250 running standard airbox filter runs 280 left and 270 right mains. With 2 X 30mm holes it's up to 320 / 310 and no lid and filter it's (depnding on tune) around 420-400 left and 370-390 right. Adds all top end on the dyno.

OOPs I forgot about the pip Doc

[cyclegod]

Thanks Doc.
Yeh my old man (mechanic) always reckon if ya keeping it stock then don't mess with what the manufacturer has come up with..they get to do more research than us!!! (but yes they still can produce crap sometimes......   )))  So the stock air box is back on minus the snorkel and a new filter. It is running better but the carby is still playing up....hmmmm...needs more work....

One thing I discovered about the stock ER carb is that there is a small "ridge" on the needle retaining plate that makes the needle kink forward (or back depending on which way up the plate is fitted) and this will of course wear the needle jet opening when the needle slides up and down in it. After I sanded the plate flat and put the keyster carb kit in jetting was restored to excellent

[gerpster]

Thanks for the offer Doc but will stick with it for now and see how I go. Have ordered a carb kit from Sirius so if all else fails will put this in when it arrives.
Yeh have noticed that the carb needle tends to want to go skew a bit so will look into that too.
I'm sure all jets and passages are clear and float level seems ok. 
Will keep at it....   

[Doc]

But this is a TS185 is in standard trim Loz, high RPM and airfilters sucking their brains out won't happen until something is done to enhance the motor. I ran a pod type on my TS and it made absolutely no difference except the induction noise was quadrupled. I took this bike to Tivoli but the thick dust choked the cleaner in about 3 laps and it also allowed this dust to enter my nice fresh motor. Does it not make sense an engine would draw air easier/faster from a still air source rather than air that is blowing past at 40mph in the opposite direction? Would this not make the dyno figures inaccurate under actual conditions? I've always found my RM's ran better under actual riding conditions if I retained the airbox rather than just fitting a pod. My motors are stock. A pod filter contained within an airbox works well also. I still think build the bike standard, get it working how it should, ride it and if you can ride it flat out everywhere and feel more power would be the savior then go looking for more power..extra HP won't make the bike any easier to ride until the rest is working properly  this is just the way I think and others no doubt have far differing opinions but it seems to have worked for me 

no worries with the pipe Loz and Mick the inner rear arrived yesterday. thanks

[cyclegod]

But this is a TS185 is in standard trim Loz, high RPM and airfilters sucking their brains out won't happen until something is done to enhance the motor. I ran a pod type on my TS and it made absolutely no difference except the induction noise was quadrupled. I took this bike to Tivoli but the thick dust choked the cleaner in about 3 laps and it also allowed this dust to enter my nice fresh motor. Does it not make sense an engine would draw air easier/faster from a still air source rather than air that is blowing past at 40mph in the opposite direction? Would this not make the dyno figures inaccurate under actual conditions? I've always found my RM's ran better under actual riding conditions if I retained the airbox rather than just fitting a pod. My motors are stock. A pod filter contained within an airbox works well also. I still think build the bike standard, get it working how it should, ride it and if you can ride it flat out everywhere and feel more power would be the savior then go looking for more power..extra HP won't make the bike any easier to ride until the rest is working properly  this is just the way I think and others no doubt have far differing opinions but it seems to have worked for me 

no worries with the pipe Loz and Mick the inner rear arrived yesterday. thanks

As always Chris, some sensible advice "get it going good before getting it going fast"

[Lozza]

Not disputing if they run better with the airbox as 99% of engines will.Just when you have to small an airbox or restictions upstream of the carb it requires a few work arounds. More about the amount available to draw on, bigger is better.As with the RGV it would have 20lt airbox,I would have to check but would be 7-8lt min.A 185 in standard nick will make those straights awful long.................

[Doc]

CG, I just don't see the need to jump in the deep end before a wheel has been spun in angst  When things go wrong it takes away all the fun  :'(
Greg for dirt track on a TS185 I'd be going up a tooth (2 if it fits) or down 4 or so on the rear and probably run a B9es plug..maybe take a few front sprockets with me to play with. If it peak revs before the end of the straight then swap cogs. Peaking in top on a stock TS185 would effectively be at about 100-120kph. It may be best to use only 1st to 4th and forget 5th? 
I realize DT is a HP game Loz and there is pleeeeenty that could be done, it just depends what people want/need and this is different for all. I like the stock idea as not only is it usually the most cost effective but it also (99%) brings reliability, reliability brings