New addition to the family

[LWC82PE]

Seat shapes for all USA modela are the same as ours for each year. Its only UK ones that are a little shorter.

That blue and yellow PE seat cover is aftermarket CEET USA type. i have a few NOS of those for 175's
Sorry, been to busy to measure frame brackets.

I know one guy who had big probs with  seat cover from DC plastics. Was almost impossible to fit. They dont allow enough to stretch over and staple. Im pretty sure DC plastics get their covers from a seller on ebay called VMX racing who also has a website or it might be VMR racing???

Ive found the best ones are from Vintage Suzuki although they still are not the right sort of grain, but at least the colour of the logo is right. the NZ ones are too greeny looking because they print the yellow straight onto black instead of white first.

I i definitely recommend paint over powercoat.

[DR]

and people question my sanity when I tell them I rub all my frames back to bare metal by hand glad to see I'm not the only one and for exactly the same reason I agree with Leith, paint the frame. My TM frame is powder coated and with the little chips and and marks from normal use and maintainance/repairs it now looks pretty shithouse Paint's def the go I reckon  

[monaro308]

No problems Leith,you've helped me out with info anyway and thanks for the PE seat cover info too.
I reckon that Ceet cover on my 175 suits the pre floater as its a loose fitting on the rear.
Bahnzy is around block from me and he offered his PE for me to measure.

I had it in mind to paint the frame as like you said Chris,easier to touch up and so on.
Yeah i still do the frames by hand too,but i've been meaning to make a blasting cabinet for ages.
My lounge queen RM125C was blasted and p/coated and looks great..still hasn't fired a shot 
I still have a tin of etch primer somewhere and i'll give the PE a going over.(when its ready)

Trailie...those tins were tempting as i've had sfa to eat today and been too lazy to even bother going shopping,but if its a bike part that i need,i'm off like a rocket!
More work to come......

[PE MAN]

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SUZUKI-PE250-C-1979-FLYWHEEL-ROTOR-BRAND-NEW-/300511649846?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f7e3e036

jst reading remembered seeing this on ebay. cheap too.

[monaro308]

I saw that too PEMAN,i'll still be a while off with the engine and sort it out with the 175 electrics when the time comes.
Ok...been hot and slack trying to paint the lounge room (really slack  ) and decided to get up early on sat' and get the PE250 frame painted up.
Not much to see here except a black frame  mixed up some subframe black and gave it a few coats,then left it out in 35+ deg weather we've had for the last few days (sorry to our northern neighbours)
 
Next up is the swingarm.Its not in bad condition but the bearings have play,the chainguide assembly is missing and the lug for the guide is ground off.
Plus its been modified at the shock mounts(ground to clear shock spring and an extra hole either to lower the bike or whatever)


The spacers in the swingarm are pitted and galled and bearings average.
These must have been done sometime ago as i think the genuine spacers are stepped,but these spacers are the same size right through and i'll be able to turn them around. $40 US each 


As luck would have it,I picked up 2 genuine bearings and 2 seals/covers off ebay last week for $40 and saved about $30 
Next up...rear hub and backing plate ::)saw this crack in the backing plate plus the drum is worn

Its usable if i Tig it up,but have been searching for another hub for the last few weeks.
Found one in the US and been trying to convince the seller i'll pay full price for the Buy Now wheel,but i just want the hub and then post it.
Haven't been able to get a clear answer from him...yes or no...simple!
I was ready to do the bearings in the swingarm last night when i found this PE400T today at a swapmeet.



It took me nearly an hour to convince myself  "do i need another bloody PE?"
Even though its a dunger,it had parts that i needed...ie good wheels with a good backing plate,untouched swingarm including the chain guide,proper PE brake lever perch/brake switch,PE tool/indicator brackets,PE throttle,decent forks,triples a better seat base bracket etc and he threw in an extra tank,head and another good hub/plate.
Frame is average to useable,engine has comp but no electrics although i stuck my finger in the exh port and felt piston movement/slap,welded gear lever but it does select gears
Also picked up 4 Suzuki indicators (2 of them do look like PE,can't remember my originals) and a speedo to make it look PE ish for $25.00


Anyway more shit in the shed,but i have more parts and less to buy.
cheers....Mario

[frostype400]

Dont get rid of the 400 Mario I know a guy who likes them and collects bits of them I wish I went to that swapmeet I would have been on that like stink on a monkey.

Those indicators do look genuine they made some a/market ones with white plastic the originals were grey plastic I cant tell from the photos if they are white I have two white ones you can have if you are interested. I also have a box full of grey ones but they are keepers.

I better check my brake plates I have never seen on snap I think I may have a spare one in my shed roof if you cant fix that one but the 400 would be the same.

That looks like an rm shock on the back of the 400 too.

[LWC82PE]

Some genuine ones were a whitey/light grey colour. Luke has some. I got some but they are not exactly real pure white like you say.

RM250 T All Balls swing arm bearing/spacer kit fits the PE. Theres one small mod you need to do though which i think is shortening a spacer or something.

[frostype400]

Ok very light grey white the common grey is distinctive on even faded ones I think your ones there Mario are the more light white/grey.

[LWC82PE]

The way to tell is looking at the lens. Aftermarket dont have writing on them.

[monaro308]

Leith,those 2 on the right looked PE to me when i saw them (they are a greyish colour)and the other 2 were Suzuki lenses as well but a different body shape but good for the front.I know what the PE speedos and indicators are worth (as you and frosty,Luke would know) and thought it was worth buying them to make it look PEish but i'm not fussed,its more if i can get it looking close enough,i'm happy.
Those spacers in the swingarm will be good if i turn them around.
I checked the PE400 swingarm early on and they are stepped and cannot be reused.
Michael....trust me,whenever a PE400 is around,your name always comes up....lol...like it did today at the s/meet.
What parts are you after??
cheers...Mario

[frostype400]

Motor and pipe but no drama if you don't want to get rid of them I thought the 250 and 400 swingarm were the same Mario what do you mean by stepped the frames are definetly the same besides numbers and comp plate.

I have one of those speedo's too but it is off a ts or something I think.

Here is a tip too watch the indicator mounts on the back when unloading the bike of a trailer one ripped my dads wedding ring in half a few weeks ago.

if you want those indicators let me know I only have two of the lighter grey ones so I won't be using them they are in my shed somewhere.

[GMC]

There are a lot of Pro’s & Cons with both paint & powder but I’m curious as to why people think you can’t touch up powder.
Its still just paint, just applied in a different way.
Holts make touch up cans for powder coat colours.

[monaro308]

Michael i was talking about the swingarm shaft spacers.
Top one was in the 400 and bottom in the 250.The twofiddy must be aftermarket and at least i can turn the spacers around and be re-used again...not so with the original being stepped.

First day at work and back on dayshift after a year.....feel like i hit a brick wall
Had a look at the arms again and convinced on using the 400 arm as the 250 has one of the posts for the chain guide missing as well.

Had an reg post card in my front door tonight and went and picked up these 
Still be a while before i get to see how they fit, $305.00 to my door from the US in 4 days...can't complain about that and Tom and Don @DC's have been great to deal with.


Michael i don't know when i'll get to pull the engine down and see what its like,but i'll let you know.
The pipe is rooted at the bottom section and someone has somehow welded the header section when the stinger was outside the frame instead of it snaking through the frame like it should.
I just moved the pipe around for the photo .
The chambers been cut n shut and it rattles too with pop rivets...go figure.
As for the indicator mounts...yeah PE's are well known to slash a bit of skin,even ADB mag used to say cut them off.
Here i am welding them back on!
Thats it! Did bugger all tonight and need to get my dayshift mojo back
Cheers Mario

[frostype400]

Interested to see how you find your dc stuff for a bike to be ridden I think they would be great f/glass busts if you have a stack and originals are too hard to get you can get sidecovers and front guards but you still need all the others and you don't want a two tone yellow bike.


I have been collecting lots of 400 parts Mario but the pipe and barrels/motors are hard to get a hold of if you want to sell any bits after you part it let me know because I am likely to have most other bits somewhere in my shed.

Also on another recomendation I ran an iridium in my 400T and with a noticable difference not power wise but starts first kicks and didn't seem to want to foul at any stage they are around $20-25 but if they don't foul like normal ones it saves you buying a heap of normal ones.

[LWC82PE]

If a plug fouls it doesnt mean its time for a new one. Its just oil/carbon and they can be cleaned
I told you the iridium would promote easier starting

Mario, if you need a tail light but dont want to pay for a PE one, just get a suzuki DS tail light They are rubber housed and use the same lens as PE and look almost like a real PE one, close enough that Suzuki USA put them on their bikes for the sales brochure shoots! They cost about $30 or you can find them cheaper on ebay but you gotta watch out for ones with horrible rubber mounts. They only have a single filament globe but with a bit of brain power you can replace the socket with a stop/tail socket out another light so it takes a twin filament globe.