how do I fit these triple clamps into this frame?

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I figure I'd better get my bum into gear with this BSA thing before there's a V12 Jag lurking in the street outside my house

So first up, I've got these triples (and matching 35mm Betors) off a 70's era Rickman Zundapp...



and this B40 BSA frame...



This may seem a basic question, but obviously these triples and frame weren't built to just bolt together. So where do I start?

Is the local bearing shop likely to have off the shelf bearings and cups to fit the two together, or do I need to start looking at machining parts to adapt one to the other?

Cheers

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p.s. I'll be removing the horn at some stage. Obviously the previous owner was a gun rider who needed to warn lapped traffic.

[firko]

Paul....I think you're safe re: me pulling up out the front in the Jag. I'd have to get a job in Brissy to earn the fuel money for the return journey to Sydney.......
Now the forks..
knock the old Beeza bearing cups out and measure up the ID of the steering head, then measure the ID of the tapered rollers you've already got. Mosey on down to your local bearing supply and order a pair of tapered roller bearings with those inner and outer dimensions. Being British they'll probably be in Imperial and hard to find but be insistant as they do exist despite what the pricks will try to tell you. You may need to shorten the stem the difference between the length of the BSA steering head and the 140mm of the Rickman steering head. If it needs to be longer, a new stem may have to be made but one step at a time. Get those bearings.

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There's a job going up here at the moment actually. It involves putting a BSA together. The successful applicant will need to supply their own tools, and a boot load of rare vintage parts, including a complete running engine.

The salary package isn't too good, mainly being comprised of beer and Chilli.


Off to the bearing shop Tuesday arvo hopefully. Cheers Firko.

[Canam370]

There is a potential problem with the style of top bearing nut you have there in that the top tree isn't fixed to the steering post as the top nut will pivot with the clamp on its thread even though the triple is securely clamped to the nut....if you see what I mean, which leaves the triples to twist about on the thread and resulting in a pretty floppy front end.

 I experienced this problem with my Rokon and while nothing was going to fall apart it didn't feel very secure or a very sensible arrangement. I did a bit of backyard engineering to secure the steering post to the top nut and also fitted a fork brace to keep some of the torque away from the extra locking bolt at the top and everything is fine now.

[GMC]

First thing to check is availability of bearings that match the shaft OD and the frame ID.
Some tapered bearings are available in different height, choose the shallowest.
Some tapered bearings have optional cones available in different dia.
The outer cones can be ground down in size to fit the frame.
If the shaft is too long / short & you have to have another made then consider buying cones to suit the frame & making the shaft to suit the ID of the bearings.
Making a different dia. shaft will need new nuts machined as well.

I modify Maico headstems to suit tapered rollers.
The bearings are available to suit the shaft but are slightly smaller than the frame so I buy the optional cone that is slightly too big for the frame and grind it down in size.  The optional cones are about 5 times the price of the bearing.

[oldfart]

Visit ..."Surplus Bearings"  in Springwood  Qld 

[LWC82PE]

be insistant as they do exist despite what the pricks will try to tell you.

.

exactly right! some of these guys behind the counters at bearing shops have no fricken idea. Thats why if its anything more obscure than a 6203 wheel bearing i will look up the bearing size on one of the million bearing wesbites on the net ,Then go to the shop with part number and say THIS is what i want.

[jimg1au]

hi
i am getting the same tripples fitted to my staracer frame.i got bearings to fit the frame and my engineer mate is maching up spaces to go between the bearings and the stem.where the top bearing is there should be a small amout of thread just below the part were the top clamp sits,this clamps down on the bearing and tin plate seal (on floor).when you take off the horn underneath,you will find the shaft will press out if you need to get another made.let us all know how you go as i have to do the same with my ariel frame
cheers
jim

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Posted by: Canam370 
Insert Quote
There is a potential problem with the style of top bearing nut you have there in that the top tree isn't fixed to the steering post as the top nut will pivot with the clamp on its thread even though the triple is securely clamped to the nut....if you see what I mean, which leaves the triples to twist about on the thread and resulting in a pretty floppy front end.

 I experienced this problem with my Rokon and while nothing was going to fall apart it didn't feel very secure or a very sensible arrangement. I did a bit of backyard engineering to secure the steering post to the top nut and also fitted a fork brace to keep some of the torque away from the extra locking bolt at the top and everything is fine now.
 

I was wondering about that while I was looking at the triples yesterday. Any chance of a pic of what you've done to yours? unless patents are pending of course 

Thanks for the info guys, I'll let you know what I find out at the bearing shop. It's absolutely pissing down here at the moment so I may be having tomorrow off to get some important stuff done around the house (like going to the bearing shop)

[matcho mick]

gee i like to see how the top triple is securely clamped to the (adjuster) nut ,my 3 ossa betor front ends have no problem with the alternate arrangement  (ie top triple clamped securely to steering stem shaft,below adjuster nut)

[firko]

I wan't sure what Can Am means..I have the same Rickman/Betor triple clamps in three bikes and haven't had any probs doing it the same way Mick says.
Could you enlarge on the situation please Can Am?

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I assumed he was talking about the long nut that goes through the top clamp onto the shaft, and that the top clamp is tightened onto the shaft of this long nut.

Does this cause any problems? ie does the nut loosen on the shaft, meaning the top clamp twists with the nut?

[Marc.com]

If you get really stuck, Harley Davidson bearing cups and races work on most things, just get a set of Harley head race bearings and away you go either make a spacer or grind the head back to get the length right, tack the cups in place and you are done. 

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well that was fairly painless.

the original needle bearings for the Betor triples are the same dimensions as Holden wheel bearings. We're talking HG'ish era. Which covers 90% of Holdens anyway   So rather than stuff about I had the local engineering mob make up a couple of sleeves to fit the Holden/Betor cups to the BSA frame.

The frame has a hefty step in the steering head so the bearing cups don't push through the sleeves when you tighten everything up.

Thanks for the help guys. A photo of the (Lon) Chaney works replica is in the Brit bikes section.