Nathan, it's a brent j invention
Twisty, I'm familiar with the "CLAKE" and it's a great idea but it pulls the clutch in before the brake comes on. There's always a crossover between the two
The two sections below are what I posted on a KTM forum
Recently I fitted a Rekluse auto clutch to my KTM Freeride.
I love it but could see a few improvements to suit myself a little more.
Stalling was eliminated (Freerides are prone to stalling if you try and ride them like an old fashioned trials bike) but there was a lack of engine braking on really, really slow trials type downhills.
I also found you can't just stall it when you stuff up on a hill climb and have the bike stay where you are. The clutch is disengaged when the motor stops so the bike runs away.
There are left side rear brake handlebar levers to operate the rear brake but they add a second lever which I didn't want.
Being a machinist with a back ground in hydraulics I figured there must be an option to using two levers.
With the KTM having a hydraulic clutch and hydraulic rear brake it seemed logical to divert the pressure from the clutch master cylinder to where I wanted it, when I wanted it.
I modified a pneumatic valve to handle higher pressure and connected it into the clutch feed line just beside the motor on the right hand side.
Now I can select the left hand lever to be a clutch which gives me the ability to check and set the adjustment on the Rekluse and also to bump start the bike if the battery goes flat. This is possible as the new model Rekluse has an adjustable slave cylinder so the clutch can be adjusted to work like normal.
For the majority of time the left hand lever is used as a rear brake. The foot pedal works no matter what the left hand lever is set to so I always have that option.
I like to challenge myself on hillclimbs and technical riding. At 54 years old I find my balance and reflexes are not what they once were. In the past if I stopped on a hill I had to put my left foot down and use the rear foot brake. Now I can put both down and grab the left hand rear brake which is much safer.
I've tried several different types of pipes and hoses but settled on steel automotive brake pipes with flared fittings.
To add a few more details.
The valve is a 5 port, 2 position valve
Pressure goes in through the centre port on the top and out either of the bottom ports as selected.
The top ports, front and back are return lines. These allow the not in use circuit to vent back to the master cylinder.
This is needed as, if you are using the brake, you must allow excess pressure in the clutch slave cylinder to vent. Or, as heat builds up the fluid will expand and cause the clutch to slip.
Same with the brake. If you are using the clutch any heat generated in the rear brake, by using the foot brake, will cause the fluid to expand and the brake will drag.
Due to the orientation of the valve it is very easy to bleed the system
The rear brake works by pressurizing the foot brake master cylinder. I've made a liner to go inside the rear brake reservoir so it can be pressurized from the hand lever. Pressure goes through the master cylinder to the rear caliper. I can use the foot pedal, the hand lever or both at once.
The other option is to use a shuttle valve. This does away with pressuring the rear master cylinder. The two pressure lines (hand and foot) go into two inlets of the shuttle valve and pressure comes out through the single outlet. A shuttle inside the valve blocks off the unused inlet to prevent pressure escaping via the other, unused, pressure line.
Moving the shuttle uses some fluid volume so the first time you use either control there will be some excess movement
