Author Topic: Silencer Repair for Dummies  (Read 15229 times)

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Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #75 on: June 09, 2010, 07:59:16 pm »
I only finished before CD7 for you Oldmxracer.
I am happy you like it.

Tight nuts

Ji

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #76 on: June 09, 2010, 10:45:03 pm »
Hey Lozza I am always interested in tricks of the trade mate.
I look forward to your master class.

Tight nuts

Ji

Offline oldmxracer

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #77 on: June 10, 2010, 06:32:59 am »
Thanks Ji. I will be trying to duplicate that I'm sure!

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #78 on: June 10, 2010, 07:19:06 am »
Go for it mate.
If you are in Brisbane let me know so I can give you a hand.

Tight nuts

Ji

Offline oldmxracer

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #79 on: June 10, 2010, 10:09:41 am »
I'm a USA guy, but thank you for the offer!

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #80 on: June 10, 2010, 10:13:35 am »
Just trying to help with a brother VMXer.
It would be cheaper for you to buy a nos one off ebay wouldn't it.

Tight nuts

Ji

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #81 on: June 10, 2010, 11:41:01 am »
Why didn't I just lathe this whole thing up in one piece.

First let me say that you may be able to purchase tubes that don't need any turning but still require welding together.
Mine did not need very much turning and I could have done it without using my lathe if I was prepared to spend more time.

Second take a look at your bikes, not everything on them is turned or milled. The original manufacturer cast a lot of items than welded tabs on.
Why ?
Because to turn or mill every part would take so much more time and cost a lot more money.

The tubes I purchased only needed a light skim, which took about 2 hours in total. Welding took about 30 minutes.
The materials cost me $11.00 and I have enough left over to make another 6 or so.
If I had purchased a aluminium bar 6061 T6 75mm diameter by 1 meter long that would have cost me $75.00. The time to lathe it down to size and then shape it with test fits would have taken 4 or 5 hours on my little lathe. If you have an industrial lathe it may be able to be turned in 3 hours.

So like the bike manufacturers I decided to spend my money and time on other things and make the job simple and that after all is why I called this "Silencer Repair for Dummies"

Tight nuts

Ji

Offline GMC

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #82 on: June 17, 2010, 10:14:55 am »
Yes Ji, your welding skills seem to be coming along nicely.

6061 is a structural grade alloy, as their is no strength needed for a muffler end cap then you can just as easily use maching grade Aluminium Alloy.
If you hunt around some of the Aluminium suppliers you can sometimes find short offcuts of materials that will come in handy for little jobs

While it's a nice job I actually think it looks a bit out of place on that muffler, it actually looks too good for the muffler. I think it would benefit if the whole thing was painted black.

I often get asked about doing budget repairs on mufflers, while they can be rebuilt it's the time factor of fiddling with them that is the killer. Materials are minimal but several hours and the costs build up as you can see. I have repaired a few mufflers like yours but I have taken them apart at the seams to take the dents out & fit new cores & packing. I usually do this because guys want the original look and the end cost is much the same as making one from scratch.
The packing in old mufflers often becomes fossilesed and useless and the perf cores are often broken or in poor shape.
The down side of this repair is that if the core is damaged then you would probably need to cut the other end off as well as the cores are usually welded in at both ends making replacing them difficult. With a good torch though you can usually see the core damage before you start to chop.
In short, it's a good budget fix for the home handy man that has time up his sleeve.
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Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #83 on: June 17, 2010, 10:23:04 am »
Hi and thanks GMC,
The machining grade aluminium is hard to weld so I read in the suppliers catalogue.
Have you found this to be true?
I stick to 6061 because the shop always has it in stock and it is pretty cheap.

I will think about painting it black or may be black anodising.
Oldskool told me its pretty easy to do at home.

Tight nuts

Ji

Offline GMC

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #84 on: June 17, 2010, 10:51:14 am »
Yes machining grade is a bugger to weld and you wouldn't want to put any trust into the strength of the weld to support anything.
6061 is hard to find in varying sizes, 6060 is more common in different sizes, will weld okay and is fine for many parts including muffler end caps.
G.M.C.  Bringing the past into the future

Shock horror, its here at last...
www.geoffmorrisconcepts.com

For the latest in GMC news...
http://www.geoffmorrisconcepts.com/8/news/

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #85 on: June 17, 2010, 10:57:39 am »
I have tried welding machine grade steel before (that is turning in a lathe steel) (all so known as Free Cutting Steel)and it is a pain.
They add lead to the steel so it turns nice but when welding the heat boils the lead out into the bead.
I have found you have to weld grind, weld grind about 3 or 4 times before the lead is all gone from the welding zone.

Tight nuts

Ji
« Last Edit: June 17, 2010, 11:00:28 am by Ji Gantor »

Offline evo550

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #86 on: June 18, 2010, 07:31:00 pm »
Ji,
How do you clean the old packing out with that set up?

Offline dalesween

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #87 on: June 18, 2010, 08:17:57 pm »
cut,pack,weld :'(