Author Topic: Silencer Repair for Dummies  (Read 15225 times)

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oldfart

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #45 on: May 21, 2010, 07:00:50 pm »
  Ji ,     My moto is make it easy and simple.    ;D       Firko you grumpy old man can I join in on a cuppa too  ;D ;D      
« Last Edit: May 21, 2010, 07:07:08 pm by oldfart »

mainline

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #46 on: May 21, 2010, 08:19:13 pm »
If anyone did want to make the end cap domed, just get yourself a small piece of sheetmetal and some kind of sturdy bag you can fill with sand. I used an old welding glove (the actual real-deal item is called a shotbag) Get yourself a mallet with a rounded end, hold the piece of sheetmetal on the bag/glove and give it a few thumps. You'll obviously see some dents appearing.

The sandbag idea is to try and keep the dent you're making fairly uniform, as the sand won't displace very much as you hit it.

Once you've dished the sheetmetal a bit, move onto a nice smooth bit of concrete and again using a mallet with a rounded end start working the dent into a smoother more uniform shape. When you've got it concave enough hold the muffler tubing over it, scribe the circle onto the sheetmetal dome and snip away. Then all you've got to do is drill a hole in the middle and weld a flange onto the back of it, so it'll slip inside the muffler, or whatever method you have in mind of putting the whole thing together.

Offline oldmxracer

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #47 on: June 07, 2010, 07:18:18 am »
C'mon man, show us how the end cap turned out.....

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #48 on: June 07, 2010, 08:11:25 am »
Sorry mate I thought everyone was more interested in CD7 now.
If I have time this week I will post end result.
Personelly I would like to see Mainline show how to make a dome end with a sand bag.
I know this is how it was done in the past and some still know how to get it right today.
That would be very interesting.

Ji

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #49 on: June 07, 2010, 08:30:11 am »
Well I took a quick trip down to Action Aluminium and picked up some materials.
This aluminium can be turned and welded.
It is T6 so it is tempered so it will lose some of its strength when welded but thats okay seeing how it is not holding anything up.

Ji
Good Luck and Tight Nuts


« Last Edit: June 07, 2010, 08:31:52 am by Ji Gantor »

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #50 on: June 07, 2010, 11:42:27 am »
Wire brush and file the existing ported tube until smooth and round.
The small tube is going to fit over the existing ported pipe inside the silencer.
Sand, lathe or grind the inside diameter until it fits over the end.
Sand, lathe or grind bevels as required.
Don't block any of the porting holes in the existing tube.

Test fit looks great.

Tight nuts

Ji


Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #51 on: June 07, 2010, 01:01:37 pm »
If you can find an outer tube that just slides in then cut to length.
Mine was not quite a perfect fit so I lathed mine down so it was.
Remember to not make the fit to snug or it won't come apart next time we want to pack the thing.
Bevel edges as required.
Make sure the outer tube extends past the end just so you have something to grab on to later when servicing.

Looks good so far.

Tight nuts

Ji


Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #52 on: June 07, 2010, 01:06:36 pm »
Time for a test fit.
It should slide in with just a little resistance, not a machine fit and not sloppy.
We will silicone and bolt this in later so there is no need for a machine fit.
The silicone is to prevent exhaust gas leakage.
Don't make this end cap to heavey as it may over stress the fixing point on the frame. This could lead to cracking as the fixing brackets are usually welded to 1mm thick steel.

Test fit looks fantastic.

Tight nuts

Ji


Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #53 on: June 08, 2010, 10:30:42 am »
To make the tube seperator we can use two hole saws on a flat plate or we can lathe what we need.
Either way will get the job done. Some blokes may be able to cut this out of a flate plate with a scroll saw.
If this is racing bike no need for a polished finish.
Keep the sealing area as tight as you can and bevel edges as required.

Time for a test fit.

Looks perfect.

Tight nuts

Ji


Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #54 on: June 08, 2010, 10:37:06 am »
This end cap has the seperator plate at the same location that the original silencer ended thus keeping the designers requirements.

Tight nuts

Ji


Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #55 on: June 08, 2010, 10:40:24 am »
I did not cover any of the original porting holes in the existing pipe.
This pipe must have been designed for bottom end power as it is exactly 250mm long (thanks Lozza)

All the parts are now ready to be TIG welded up.

Tight nuts

Ji


Offline pancho

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #56 on: June 08, 2010, 02:48:56 pm »
Talking about beating sheet into shape, I recently needed to extend a fibreglass rear guard down through the swinging arm. I grabbed an old 'keep out' sign about 300x150 made from aluminium and proceeded to hand form it using my version of the leather sandbag. I placed the sign on the lawn and then started to belt it into rough shape with a hammer. However not much progress was being made till I gave up with the hammer and started using the back of the axe! Apparently the old swb signs were made from a very high grade hardened alloy material. However i carried on regardless and after making a large groove in the lawn achieved a section in the shape required for the task at hand, which when finished off with a hammer and dolly was quite acceptable. This piece was then fibreglassed on to the end of the other bit and was immediately discarded 'cause i found a better one! The main lessons gained    1]Make sure the material is MALLEABLE 2] Check if there is a better part somewhere first 3]Keep in the back of my mind that if I need a strong piiece of alloy sheet check out the old swb signs!   4]Fix the groove in the lawn.   cheers wally.
dont follow me i'm probably off line!

Offline Lozza

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #57 on: June 08, 2010, 03:08:13 pm »
Most sheet ali sold in Australia has been usualy tempered  to T6 condition for hand beating etc etc you need to get O condition or annealed which is very soft/ductile/malleable. Just try to buy some though fine if you want a ton of it :o

Jesus only loves two strokes

Ji Gantor

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #58 on: June 08, 2010, 04:19:01 pm »
Hi Wally,
I have panel beated a lot of aluminium but not made something from scratch.
I have seen the sand bag technique before it works great.
The first hammer blow looks scarry but after one hundred it starts looking great.
Using a planisher afterwards certainly smooths out the surface.

Tight nuts

Ji

Offline E74

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Re: Silencer Repair for Dummies
« Reply #59 on: June 08, 2010, 06:09:45 pm »
Obviously you have had both pieces of pipe and the disk in a lathe so why didn't you just machine the end cap up in one piece out of a piece of solid? it would look shitloads better. ;)