OzVMX Forum
Marque Remarks => British (BSA, Greeves, Triumph etc) => Topic started by: Marc.com on June 21, 2012, 05:49:15 am
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Almost there some Dsuz fasteners and it should be a goer..... also has the worst front brake in history so may need more thought ;)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg71/marcFX_photo/Garage3.jpg)
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looks great.
What is the brake and what is the problem?
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Front wheel is off OSSA, yeah I know but the rims matched with the back. Cable is pretty light so I will probably start there and make stiffer one.
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stick with it. Always start with shoes that are the right size... for instance the new shoes for the Bantam / Rickman hubs are a metric equivalent to the original imperials sizes and they are slightly undersized,
So from day one you have to adjust the shoes out loosing the mechanical advantage of the cam and brake set up. You also reduce the contact patch between the shoes and the lining as you adjust out, so you are loosing your braking area and end up with rubbish brakes.
Consequently some people moan about the Bantam and Rickman hubs. It's not the hubs it's the shoes.
I am luck and can get my shoes relined to match the hub. When they go in the hub you can hear the air rush out between the shoes and the brake lining, they are a perfect fit and the shoes is in full contact with the barle lining, so maximum braking.
A good quality cable and a good quality lever will also help.
Keep up the good work, the bike is looking magnificent
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Keep up the good work, the bike is looking magnificent
Cheers for that, yeah I will just work through it step by step, bit of marking blue on the hubs might tell me something as well. You know like any bike just as much work goes into shaking out the bugs as building it.
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Front wheel is off OSSA,
And therin lays the fatal flaw in your otherwise beautiful little bike Marc. I used an OSSA Stilleto front end including the wheel on my DT1 from Hell and try as I might, I could never get it to stop worth a shit. I tried lengthening and then shortening the control arm, tried a thicker gauge cable, tried super soft linings and even gave the wheel to Dougie Chivas to degree it in on the lathe. Everything worked a tiny bit but in the end it was still awful. In desperation I went to the bloke who knows more about OSSA'S than anyone in Australia, Phil Young who told me that even he'd never been able to get the full width OSSA front brake to work back in the day. He used to replace them with DT1 Yamaha full width items....go figure ::). If your brake is the same as the one shown in the below photo, you're up against it my friend.
(http://i333.photobucket.com/albums/m392/cherie_jones/DT1Mark.jpg)
By the way, you've been a bit quiet since your return to sunny NZ. Have you settled in OK mate?
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very, very nice, we're going to need some more photo's though
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By the way, you've been a bit quiet since your return to sunny NZ. Have you settled in OK mate?
Hi Mark, mine is conical hub Ossa so probably even worse...... have to rely heavily on the 441s engine breaking :o.
Mate its all good..... settled into NZ fairly seamlessly, working for a company that has one division that sells tools and I get generous staff rate, so needlesss to say I have a pretty Gucci shed set up coming along. ;D Next mission is to build a shed/house.
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trade ya a set of B50MX s/cvrs for your poxy ossa front hub ;D,(you can keep the rim Marc ;)), :P
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trade ya a set of B50MX s/cvrs for your poxy ossa front hub ;D,(you can keep the rim Marc ;)), :P
I am sure I have a Rickman wheel about somewhere forthe front but not sure it will be an improvement ;)
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6 X AJ5 35-40-45's, + 6 x S225,included, ;) (= look harder ;D), :P
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Looking good Mark!
Some more pics please ;D
I've finally tracked down all 6 original dzus for mine, but if you find a source for new ones please let me know. All I can find is the new type with knobs on the screw and not a slot.
Did you end up painting the tank instead of anodizing? Candy, metallic??
Although I think our bikes is pretty similar to start with, yours beeing the last of the BSA's and mine the first of the XT500's I,ve chose a different style, longtravel, with JBR banana-swing and Fox Airs in the rear, and Fox Forx in the front.... ;)
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Ola,look on top of the stud,it will tell you the size,ie AJ5 ,35/40/45,are common short lengths,i have dzus fastners as i use them on the multiple section fairings i manufacture, :P
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Looking good Mark!
Some more pics please ;D
I've finally tracked down all 6 original dzus for mine, but if you find a source for new ones please let me know. All I can find is the new type with knobs on the screw and not a slot.
Did you end up painting the tank instead of anodizing? Candy, metallic??
Although I think our bikes is pretty similar to start with, yours beeing the last of the BSA's and mine the first of the XT500's I,ve chose a different style, longtravel, with JBR banana-swing and Fox Airs in the rear, and Fox Forx in the front.... ;)
Hi Ola, still chasing my Dzus fasteners mate, need some 1/4" ones with knobs/slot or anything at the moment would be good, maybe Mick has them.
Tank is B50SS tank and it came back from at anodisers looking more like Leopard skin, he blamed that it had contained fuel.... anyway short story was the whole lot got 2 pack Fiat Burgandy . My frame is stamped JBR 75 ..... engine is B44 with bigger Omega piston, B50MX cam, front wheel is Ossa, rear is Rickman, forks are Ceriani and shocks are Falcon.
Wsan't too worried about originality, as Cheney tanks often like two cake tins soldered together.... just wanted it to be nice looking bike at surprisingly reasonable price. Frame seat and shocks were 3 grand, good running motor was $1500 so we are not talking crazy money like CCMs
Next Cheney on the menu is my cantilever Honda one.
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pm sent ::), :P
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The original swing on my bike was just like yours (only destroyed :(), and the design on the frame pretty much the same, I guess mine is a 76/77.
But as I said I went longtravel, this is just a mock-up and bad mob.phone pic, but I think it'll look ok? ??? ???
(http://api.ning.com/files/1VO9sMFBIpF8Y1H4x*ZaH29YoRx7kfHq16sdI6xZI3JlBS6oumA9gjaUUaHQsQ3V38PzWSuznqQocx53uv0XF0WMgqBbrZhM/FoxCheney.JPG)
I'll go for red metallic 2pack paint also.
Will get back to you regarding dzus Mick.
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Also I've missed out on a couple of Cheneyframedeals the last year, one beeing a XL cantilever like yours, really fancy them.
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Also I've missed out on a couple of Cheneyframedeals the last year, one beeing a XL cantilever like yours, really fancy them.
Hey Ola,
Your long travel version I think fits the era of the TT500 motor better anyway, 76/77 the CCMs and everyone was going up and inch or more a year, cool bike and love the swingarm.
My Xl cantilever is NOS frame, and is currently being copied by one of the guys in NZ, along with my Fox Forks, he already has done replicas on my UDX Simons that look better than the original. So possibly frame kit coming along and replica Fox's :o
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A quick google produced several sources for Dzus fasteners. The bike is looking great and I look forward to seeing more pictures ;D
One day (hopefully this year) I'll have the '70 Cheney Triumph T100 running. I'm at eight weeks and counting on having the exhaust fabricated :P
http://www.dzusfasteners.net/
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I've bought my Dzus fastners from the race car supply shop, Rocket Industries here in Sydney.
They carry a number of different types. I even got the correct wrench to stop buggering them with a screwdriver.
http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71500 (http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71500)
http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71370 (http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71370)
https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71600 (https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71600)
=code+asc&q=dzus+fasteners]https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/search?search[order]=code+asc&q=dzus+fasteners (https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/search?search[order)
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Marc, looks like I'll be needing even more Dzus-bolts... ;) ;)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/IMG_3228.jpg?t=1344433086)
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Marc, looks like I'll be needing even more Dzus-bolts... ;) ;)
(http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd485/ola_martin/IMG_3228.jpg?t=1344433086)
Hmmm looks the same as my frame apart from being a very ugly shade of black ...... who knows there might be mint nickel underneath
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Mark thought you would be reproducing those sexy swingarms!!
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Hmmm looks the same as my frame apart from being a very ugly shade of black ...... who knows there might be mint nickel underneath
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Thats what I'm hoping too, doesn't appear to be rubbed up before painting in the photos I got, so hopefully paintstripper and elbowgrease might do it. The frame is in the mail for me right now.
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Mark thought you would be reproducing those sexy swingarms!!
well I had a good go with the XL KSI bike :D
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It wasn't mint nickel, but not so bad either, had some repairs to the brakearmlugs on the swing, wich has damaged the plating around them, so probably need a replate of the swing.
Don't know how much of the rust on the frame I can get rid of, mabe Firko can enligthen me a bit on restoring nickel??
Mine is stamped HONDA 12, wich number is yours Marc?
(http://api.ning.com/files/nH0dYAM8iRgB0QpmejWZ8ZFAIG1JoioZ70QNopYuKOhRERq6MxO9lmg99Nku1CdKaEROtBk4dmhPK-DwoqmDpB0AeEDpjTPV/IMG_9114.jpg?width=737&height=552)
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Talking about P/Poor brakes, my Mk8 Pursang had terrible brakes, chrome on alloy hubs i think [weight saving], i just put up with it in the end. But, thinking back to my first old BSA back in early 60's my then w/shop boss had a 350 goldy & swore by taking away the pivoted end of shoes [if located sideways by a 'mushroom head] recon'd letting them float let them find the best spot to work better. in a way i suppose its no different to car brake shoes being able to move--or my old suzy quad front ones. Just a thought anyway & used to do that myself in the old days, then the jap stuff arrived & no more problems. Talking about the Mk8, it had the best aircleaner set up just thinking back--rubber tube with a flange on then extended up into the filer a bit & was fullproof [or idiot proof in my case & couldn't muck it up as i recall].
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Mine is stamped HONDA 12, wich number is yours Marc?
(http://api.ning.com/files/nH0dYAM8iRgB0QpmejWZ8ZFAIG1JoioZ70QNopYuKOhRERq6MxO9lmg99Nku1CdKaEROtBk4dmhPK-DwoqmDpB0AeEDpjTPV/IMG_9114.jpg?width=737&height=552)
Hi Ola I will have to check which number is on mine, interesting..... regarding nickel it can be a beetch to restore, you have to be a bit careful with stripping the nickel electrically in case it also strips the bronze and your frame turns in the worst case to a collection of pipes. ::)
I have heard of people sanding the nickel back and getting them re nickeled with good results, because really nickel plating is the same as chrome plating without the chrome part. OR another option I think is the modern high temp coatings they use on car wheels, exhaust, turbo housings etc, they work similar to powder coating but much harder and more durable, they also look flat like nickel coating. .
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I chose to leave much of the original patina, wear spots, and battle scars on my latest project a 1970 Triumph T100C. Typically there are a couple of approaches to cleaning up the nickle. One is to use steel wool and a rust removal product or polish depending on the area. Drawbacks are the occasional piece of steel that gets stuck into a finger. Second is to use a series of progressively finer abrasive polishing paper. When all else fails there is paint and or stripping and plating. There is although a correct process as to not adversely effect the bronze welds.
(http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae59/CheneySachs/004.jpg)
This one was a mess when I got it. Countless hours were spent on cleaning off the goo and oxidation. They do look better the more parts you get installed back on the frame. Still have a few more items before completion.
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I've only just started on the Cheney Sachs project and will use a similar approach to the frame restoration as the Triumph.
(http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae59/CheneySachs/CheneyII3-19-11002.jpg)