6 Dzus fasteners off finished

[ola_martin]

The original swing on my bike was just like yours (only destroyed ), and the design on the frame pretty much the same, I guess mine is a 76/77.

But as I said I went longtravel, this is just a mock-up and bad mob.phone pic, but I think it'll look ok?



I'll go for red metallic 2pack paint also.

Will get back to you regarding dzus Mick.

[ola_martin]

Also I've missed out on a couple of Cheneyframedeals the last year, one beeing a XL cantilever like yours, really fancy them.

[Marc.com]

Also I've missed out on a couple of Cheneyframedeals the last year, one beeing a XL cantilever like yours, really fancy them.

Hey Ola,

Your long travel version I think fits the era of the TT500 motor better anyway, 76/77 the CCMs and everyone was going up and inch or more a year, cool bike and love the swingarm.

My Xl cantilever is NOS frame, and is currently being copied by one of the guys in NZ, along with my Fox Forks, he already has done replicas on my UDX Simons that look better than the original. So possibly frame kit coming along and replica Fox's 

[dfisher]

A quick google produced several sources for Dzus fasteners.  The bike is looking great and I look forward to seeing more pictures 

One day (hopefully this year) I'll have the '70 Cheney Triumph T100 running.  I'm at eight weeks and counting on having the exhaust fabricated 

http://www.dzusfasteners.net/

[firko]

I've bought my Dzus fastners from the race car supply shop, Rocket Industries here in Sydney.
They carry a number of different types. I even got the correct wrench to stop buggering them with a screwdriver.
http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71500
http://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71370
https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/products/MO71600
=code+asc&q=dzus+fasteners]https://shop.rocketindustries.com.au/search?search[order]=code+asc&q=dzus+fasteners

[ola_martin]

Marc, looks like I'll be needing even more Dzus-bolts...

[Marc.com]

Marc, looks like I'll be needing even more Dzus-bolts...

Hmmm looks the same as my frame apart from being a very ugly shade of black ...... who knows there might be mint nickel underneath

[bazza]

Mark thought you would be reproducing those sexy swingarms!!

[ola_martin]

[/quote]

Hmmm looks the same as my frame apart from being a very ugly shade of black ...... who knows there might be mint nickel underneath
[/quote]

Thats what I'm hoping too, doesn't appear to be rubbed up before painting in the photos I got, so hopefully paintstripper and elbowgrease might do it. The frame is in the mail for me right now.

[Marc.com]

Mark thought you would be reproducing those sexy swingarms!!

well I had a good go with the XL KSI bike 

[ola_martin]

It wasn't mint nickel, but not so bad either, had some repairs to the brakearmlugs on the swing, wich has damaged the plating around them, so probably need a replate of the swing.
Don't know how much of the rust on the frame I can get rid of, mabe Firko can enligthen me a bit on restoring nickel??

Mine is stamped HONDA 12, wich number is yours Marc?

[OverTheHill]

Talking about P/Poor brakes, my Mk8 Pursang had terrible brakes, chrome on alloy hubs i think [weight saving], i just put up with it in the end. But, thinking back to my first old BSA back in early 60's my then w/shop boss had a 350 goldy & swore by taking away the pivoted end of shoes [if located sideways by a 'mushroom head] recon'd letting them float let them find the best spot to work better. in a way i suppose its no different to car brake shoes being able to move--or my old suzy quad front ones. Just a thought anyway & used to do that myself in the old days, then the jap stuff arrived & no more problems. Talking about the Mk8, it had the best aircleaner set up just thinking back--rubber tube with a flange on then extended up into the filer a bit & was fullproof [or idiot proof in my case & couldn't muck it up as i recall].

[Marc.com]

Mine is stamped HONDA 12, wich number is yours Marc?

Hi Ola I will have to check which number is on mine, interesting..... regarding nickel it can be a beetch to restore, you have to be a bit careful with stripping the nickel electrically in case it also strips the bronze and your frame turns in the worst case to a collection of pipes. 

I have heard of people sanding the nickel back and getting them re nickeled with good results, because really nickel plating is the same as chrome plating without the chrome part. OR another option I think is the modern high temp coatings they use on car wheels, exhaust, turbo housings etc, they work similar to powder coating but much harder and more durable, they also look flat like nickel coating. .

[dfisher]

I chose to leave much of the original patina, wear spots, and battle scars on my latest project a 1970 Triumph T100C.  Typically there are a couple of approaches to cleaning up the nickle.  One is to use steel wool and a rust removal product or polish depending on the area.  Drawbacks are the occasional piece of steel that gets stuck into a finger.  Second is to use a series of progressively finer abrasive polishing paper.  When all else fails there is paint and or stripping and plating.  There is although a correct process as to not adversely effect the bronze welds.



This one was a mess when I got it.  Countless hours were spent on cleaning off the goo and oxidation.  They do look better the more parts you get installed back on the frame.  Still have a few more items before completion. 

[dfisher]

I've only just started on the Cheney Sachs project and will use a similar approach to the frame restoration as the Triumph.