Slipping kick starter on TM 125

[Dono113]

 I pulled down my TM 125 to work out why the kickstarter would ingauge half way thru stroke or not at all. Well I might as well rebuild the whole motor , because it seems I have to split cases to get to it. Anyone got an old factory workshop manual or sorts have two motors so i will build both at the same time.

[TT5 Matt]

ive got a gen suzi ts125 that i could sell you which is the same motor just abit down on power!pm me for more details

[TM BILL]

I think i have factory wshop manual , if you get no better offers i can get it copied for you .

[Dono113]

Your a legend Bill, found a couple on yanky ebay and one NZ manual(not a factory job but) how much for your trouble to copy mate? Beer/ Port/ Red
 Matty thanks mate for the offer of the TS, just got rid of one 

[TM BILL]

No worries will get one copied tomorrow  PM me your address .

In the mean time if you dont have a Rotor puller get one of those as you will need one to remove the rotor, you can make one out of a truck wheel nut if you dont have one  . Everything else you can do with basic hand tools ( although a small press is always an advantage ).

[Dono113]

My old mate Nifty lent one to me last night got the cases split, but in doing so a pin came from somewhere(god knows) and now im stuck without a manual. The other TM125 motor is is fully apart so I wanted to build both up at same time and have a spare on the shelf or one motor for dirt track and one for mx, thanks again Bill your a champion. PM sent with address.

[brent j]

What size is the pin? There are several different ones in there.

From the sound of your kick start problem you may well need a new kick start idler gear, this is quite a common problem

[Dono113]

Got a couple of spare gear for the kickstarter, TM Bill is gunna copy a manual for me, first thought was the pin came out of the selector  but they were all still there

[TM BILL]

What gives out the most on these systems is the kickstarter pawl mechanism. Dont scrimp by fitting secondhand parts ( i literally have boxes of secondhand kickstart parts and would give you some for the price of postage ) but its a fools economy 

I think the parts are available from Suzuki and they fit many models (come in Doc  )

Manuals getting copied today will post tomorrow cheers Bill.

[Dono113]

THanks Bill and your on the money the paw was chipped spring was good have ones that are in real good con, maybe even new got alot spares when I bought the TM.

[TM BILL]

Sweet PM Doc though as he really is the Guru of these things , and if theres any tips on improving the system Docs your man 

[bazza]

Had similar on the boys TM was the PAWL on k/start shaft mechanisim.

[Nipper]

Going through the same problem at the moment with TM125. havent split the cases yet, need a rotor puller. TM Bill you said that one of these can be made out of a truck wheel nut? How does that work?

[Doc]

bit late on the scene sorry but yup..almost every TM125 has kickstarter pawl issues at one time or another. Best to replace these whenever the engine the engine is apart whether they appear ok or not

a simple gear puller from supercheap will work to remove the rotor About $26 it makes easy work of removal. Just remember to remove the gear selector locating pin from under the cases before trying to split the cases. It's the one that looks like a drain plug but it has a spring and pin.

The pawl p/n  26231-20000 (2 of) and also replace the springs for good measure p/n 09440-04010. About $20 -$25 and still available from Suzuki.

[TM BILL]

This is my rotor puller 

Wheel nut from a truck , same thread as rotor



Smaller nut and bolt , weld smaller nut to truck wheel nut centred



Remove rotor nut and washer from crank , and screw on truck wheel nut to rotor



Screw in bolt (not shown), as i use a universal internal puller with the same thread as smaller nut ( but a bolt will do the job ) to smaller nut till it meets with crankshaft end , then tighten until rotor comes free of crank . If tension getting ridiculous, tap ( dont smash ) bolt with a copper hide mallet ( or hammer )  to asssit removal of rotor .