DR500 NEWBIE QUESTIONS..........

[WillsRD]

G'day All,
Just picked up a cheap '83 DR500 Zook, runs-just! Will only be used at a local bike park to follow my son around on as he learns so certainly won't be a resto

It has been stripped of all road based parts, doesn't even have an ignition switch, just a push button kill-switch.

Anything I need to keep an eye on in particular, not having much to with old four strokes!!
Bought the 500 to replace the '81 TS185 that struggles a bit with my 115KG............

Thanks in advance guys,
William

[oldfart]

Cam chain adjustment is all you need to check on, as these motors are bullet proof ...RHs of motor a little tab that juts out from barrel - back off lock nut and then unwind screw 1 1/2 turns ( internal push rod will rest it's self ) then tighten up screw and lock nut
While your at it replace oil filter .... same side  3  screws on clutch cover  ( watch out for spring )  filters cost 10 bucks
Cheers

[WillsRD]

Cam chain adjustment is all you need to check on, as these motors are bullet proof ...RHs of motor a little tab that juts out from barrel - back off lock nut and then unwind screw 1 1/2 turns ( internal push rod will rest it's self ) then tighten up screw and lock nut
While your at it replace oil filter .... same side  3  screws on clutch cover  ( watch out for spring )  filters cost 10 bucks
Cheers

thanks oldfart! appreciate the advice. from another oldie
William

[steve234]

I found with mine that opening up the airbox dosen't help at all. I thought that this would help it breath as it does have a larger aftermarket header and megaphone pipe. But still has the CV carb so that may be the problem.

Anything you can do to lighten it will help, mine goes hard and turns ok but trying to stop it with brakes sucks. I also changed the sprockets to 14 teeth up front and 47 at the back. This made it heaps better as i was going around the QVMX tracks in second gear all the way previously.

Cheers,
Steve

[DR500]

like Old Fart said,Change oil and filter,adjust cam chain and adjust tappets and she will keep going.I have 2 one i use on the road and the other for riding at vmx.Great bike because you don,t have to put it back together evertime you race it.Cheers.

[WillsRD]

Thanks Guys
steve234, my DR doesn't even have an airbox When I collected it there was a foam pod filter fitted that I reckon was 20 years old! I bought a new one today. Also did the oil as suggested, and fitted a new spark plug. Was still running like a pig though, wouldn't run above idle without spluttering to a stop Turned out the pilot jet was well blocked with crap[my RD suffered same hassle]and after a thorough clean now revs cleanly. I'll fit a fuel filter tomorrow........

I checked the valve clearance, they seem 'tappity' but the clearances are at about .15mm. Is that OK? I attempted to adjust the cam chain, I loosened the locknut, then the bolt with the cheese head top and found the bolt wouldn't re-tighten It just turns around going nowhere! Major drama? i wasn't game to remove the tensioner unit from the barrel in case it made things worse Doesn't leak any oil, so should I leave it as is?

Bike has been stripped bare for racing[still had an old race plate on the front when I bought it] Rear brake wasn't working at all, someone had fitted the linkage the wrong way round, easy fix. I agree the brakes are very ordinary, especially with my 115kg on board! I'm going to buy another DR500 soon that is very complete, and might be a goos resto project. Interestingly it has steel rims and swingarm and my offroad only one has alloy takasago rims and an alloy swingarm. What's the story there I wonder?

Thanks for your advice so far, keep it coming

[oldfart]

Ok ...   looks like you have run out of ajustment. Put a new bolt in and let it bottom out ( to hold stopper ) undo bolts either side of tensioner and slowly remove , making sure plunger does not end up in case.....this should not happen as the chain should hold against it
Once you have it out check with a screwdriver how much you have to push it in versus length of plunger
If it's longer your chain is too far stretched to adjust .....and bloody expensive to replace

Tappit adjustment .....tighten down until it just makes contact and then back it off 1/8 of a turn or approx 45 degrees
If you feel any up and down movement it's too loose

[WillsRD]

Thanks oldfart, I'll suss it out tomorrow. Cam chain expensive to replace? I only paid $400 for the bike :'(


thanks again.

[steve234]

I tried adjusting the valves the other day and the adjuster screw seemed to want to keep going until the lock nut would fall off. What am i doing wrong?

Cheers,
Steve

[DR500]

Steve,You have to make sure you on TDC after compression.I check mine with feelers,cold 0.10mm for in&ex.If she rattles at the moment like a bag of bolts then you rocker arms may be F### or worn.Common when they are used with little oil in motor.You can still get new ones,but about $130 each.Best bet is to remove cam cover and have a look inside.Refit cover using three bond sealer.Cheers Tony

[steve234]

THanks Tony,

To get TDC for compression do you have to line up the flywheel (T) or can it be done by turning the kick starter over ?

[DR500]

i take the spark plug out and put your finger over the hole and kick over,when you fill compression,put a rod down and continue to move piston up til you get to TDC.I find that trying to stop motor at the T mark a real pain.Becareful not to kick over to quick or you may jam the rod in the bore!!

[oldfart]

Yep TDC can be a pain . Using a dial indicator saves alot of shitting around