The front hub is shared with AT1 and most YZ100s. 248 prefix.
The YZ100s have an externally lipped alloy rim, which is nice, and seems less crack-prone than the lipless DID of the larger YZs.
The rear hub is the same as MX125A/B and very similar to YZ125C. The difference is that the C hub has larger (10mm) studs holding the sprocket on, compared to the earlier bikes' 8mm bolts.
The YZ125X hub has the larger studs, and a slightly different mounting position for the rear sprocket (the sprocket is a few millimetres further away from the spokes). This allows you to run a flat (un-dished) sprocket from a later YZ/DT which are a lot easier and cheaper to buy.
The YZ125D/E/F and monoshock DT125/175 hub is also very similar - its mounts the rear sprocket another few millimetres further out-board of the spokes. Some time in the lathe will trim it back to the specs of the YZ125X hub. (Trainspotters Tip: The later hubs still have the YZ125X's 1G8 prefix cast into them, down in one of the recesses between the studs - a modified YZ-E/DT mono hub is therefore impossible to distinguish from a genuine YZ-X hub).
I think that I posted these pics up just the other night, but this time I'll add captions:
This is a DT125A with an unmodified YZ125E rear wheel in it. As it sits, the front and rear sprockets line up, but obviously the wheel is way too far to the right.
Same bike, exact same wheel, now sitting with the rim reasonably centred in the swing-arm. The sprocket holding studs are toucihng the swing arm, and (obviously) the sprockets don't line up anymore.
The solution:
FWIW, the distance between the sprocket mounting face and the inside of the spoke flange in 26mm for a YZ125X hub (actually, if you're going to start chopping into a hub, let me check that measurement first!).
Following the strict letter of the law, any of these hubs fitted to a pre-75 bike is illegal. I doubt that anyone would care.