How To Strip A Fork

[Ji Gantor]

Thanks to all members current and past that have shown their support for my topics and me.

Okay enough of this Emo stuff lets get back to working on old bikes !
I have not touched an oily bolt all day !

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Okay, I wiped all the oil off the fork seals yesterday and left them to dry over night. I don't know if the oil makes the seal swell or if it is a temp change but as I said I have stripped down modern and old forks before and struggled to slide hammer the seals out of the first fork on the day of strip down, only to have the seal on the second fork that was left overnight virtually fall out. Forksmiths may not have experienced this because they can not afford to wait, they have to get the job done, but I would be interested to see if any one else has had the same experience.
Just to let you know , yesterday I placed a lever under the first seal slide and it would not budge. This morning I placed one finger under the same seal and out it came. The manual states that there should be two seals and a few washers but I have discovered a fibre slide seal or packer and only one seal ( no washers ).
This may have been some kind of trick way of doing it in the past, one would have to read every test article to know.

I will be replacing this system with a Leak Proof Fork seal when the tubes come back from RAD.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Tomorrow I have some time so I will drop the inner hard chrome fork tubes off at RAD.
Rad is a mile from where I live and work and the only way there is through the city traffic so this is not a fun trip.
While I am there I will ask the owner if I can take some pictures of the process so I can post the images here. As a lot of their work comes from out side QLD this should give other state members an idea where they are sending their rare bike parts to.
RAD not only hard chrome fork tubes but they also HC shock shafts. The boys will rebuild shocks if required and they will straighten bent fork tubes for $20.00.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

I try my very best to restore my bikes mechanically back to the way they were when they came off the show room floor. With this in mind one has to refer to the manual constantly to see if the parts on the bike were from that year or even that marque. The fork top cap bolt should as per the manual have an "o" ring but this one does not so I will have to order a set.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The manual also tells me that the dampener rod is held in place by a flat bladed screw driver type M8 bolt and a fibre sealing washer.
This has been replaced with an Allan key screw and a S/S washer.
I have to admit the Allan key screw is a big improvement, as I doubt after 30 years of poor maintenance I would have got the flat bladed screw driver bolt out from its recess.
The S/S washer will be replaced with a copper washer similar to the Maico forks. These copper washers on the Maico's also keep the gearbox oil where it belongs.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

This posting is for info only I don't recommend any one trying this.

Because the bushings are not being replaced, I have marked the tubes that are off to RAD. I feel that all the components that came out of the left fork should go back into the left fork. Because all the parts have worn together over the years they should not exhibit any dramatic ware in the future if they are returned to their original position. Well that is only my opinion.

I totally supported the tube with some wood and then drove two dots into the inner of the non-drum side fork. I will have to buff the surface when I get them back but that is okay, you are encouraged to clean your tubes before assembly anyway.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

I thought things were going to well.
I was right when I said 30 years of poor maintenance would prevent a flat blade screw driver bolt from being removed. The S/S Allan key bolt was stripped due to, may I assume, some one using the wrong size Allan key.

Anyway you are going to get this some where on an old bike I just wish it was not in this location.
I could mill the head of the bolt off but I will try drilling it out first. When drilling out a bolt or when cutting new threads always use a cutting compound or coolant. This will make the job easier and stop the bit from over heating.
When working with anything S/S always use High Speed Steel bits, taps and dies.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

After many hours the drill finally cut a 7.6mm diameter hole 8mm deep into the top of the bolt. I then tapped the bolt head with a punch back and forth until it broke off. Half way through the drilling process I tried to turn the bolt and it did, unfortunately it was also turning the dampener rod. Anyway the fork is now in two pieces.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

If I wanted to see if my fork tubes are bent, place them together and roll them. If one or both are bent you will see a gap. Yep there is a gap, so they will have to straighten them for me.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Well the inner tubes will be back in 2 weeks so that gives us enough time to clean all the other parts.
First I will start with the lower leg or outer tube.
These outer tubes had a polished finish so lets break out the polish.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

I have polished the drum side fork lower tube to show the contrast.
It is not a mirror finish but it is okay for a fork leg.
This polishing process was all done without any polishing tools except my hands.


Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Here is a closer look.
I hope you can see the surface.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Hopefully this image will show the quality of hand polishing.

Ji

[HL400]

Hi Ji, my forks are due back tomorrow from RAD and they where very helpfull they called me last night and said it all went well so back on the practic track on Sunday .  I have a question for you or any other cz guru's out there, do you no the amount of air I should pump into the forks ?  HL

[Ji Gantor]

Hi HL400,
Mark showed me a pair of CZ fork tubes today.
Do yours have 3 different out side diameters?

What year is your CZ?

Ji