Powder Coating The Chassis

[Ji Gantor]

Completely strip the chassis of everything including, bearings,rubber grommets, bolts, compliance plate and most of all oil and grease. Cap all bearing areas to save time having to remove the powder coat later.

The powder coater will sand blast the frame but sand blasting does not remove oil.
For this spend some time degreasing the chassis. If the engine had an oil leak most likely the frame tubes around the foot pegs will be coated in oil.

If you do not remove all the oil from the frame when the chassis is placed in the oven the oil will heat up  and flow all over the new paint job.

Degrease it and Gerni it over and over, some restorers soak their frames in degreaser for a time.
Be patient and good luck.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Use plenty of spray can degreaser to get into those hard to reach areas. I also use a wire brush, a piece of wire and S/S wool to remove all the oil, grease and dirt deposits.

Don't forget to clean the steering head area.

The hot oil will flow all over the powder coat before the paint has hardened. The oven is set at, I think, about 200 deg C. Once the oil has mixed with the paint the only fix is to sand it back and use touch up paint or start again. Your powder coater will not do it for free the second time.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Another tip to stop people from falling into the same pit I did.
Get all your new plastic covers, seat and any other attachments that will be going onto the frame  and pre fit them before you send the frame off to be powder coated. If there is a missing bracket now is the time to weld it on. If the brackets are bent now is the time to adjust their position because if done after the paint has been applied the paint may crack when the plate is bent.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

To plug bearing areas I used a hole saw on a sheet of alloy and a length of Booker rod. Easy and cheap.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

Another thing not to forget before the frame goes off to the powder coater. Now is the time to make an engine mount spreader. I use a piece of Booker rod 2 nuts and 2 washers. Place them as shown and rotate one of the nuts. When you are hanging onto a 35 kilo engine and it just slides in you will thank me.

Don't spread the flanges too far apart just a few millimetres wider than the engine block.

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

The powder coat colour chart can be found on this web site.
Colour Selector
With 132 colours on display, the Dulux Powder Coatings’ Colour Selector includes:

http://www.duluxpowders.com.au/powd/cda/powd_cda_card/1,1198,,00.html

Ji

[Ji Gantor]

CZ and Maico red in powder coat colours is one of two tones.
Signal red or Flame red.

It is hard to see the difference between the two colours in the Dulux catalouge. But when you see them face to face standing side by side the Flame red seems to be a little more orange than the Signal red (this may be my old eyes).

Maico's have been powder coated in both colours by restorers and it is your decission.
Colour selection is personal but I selected Signal red for my Maico and I will use it for my CZ project as well.

Good luck.

Ji

[OSSA PHANTOM]

 I wouldn't spread the mounts. I would install a bolt/nut with oversize washers instead. If you powder coat the mounts, you won't get a ground for the ignition.
 After the powder coating be careful the grease and loctite, both will stain the frame and you can't remove it. I have found that model airplane paint works well to fill in chips and scratches in the powder coating.

[Ji Gantor]

Hi OSSA PHANTOM,
I spread the engine mounting brackets because the bracket plates are the same distance apart as the engine block which has to fit inbetween or usually less. When holding a 30Kg engine in a chassis is not the time to start fighting with the brackets. It is better to widen the bracket plates a small amount so the engine slides in easily. When the engine mounting bolts are done up the bracket plates will close up.

I usually let the powder coater paint the chassis except those places blocked off and come back at the end with a Dremel and remove the paint so an earth can be made. After all I still have to ream some bolt holes and tap all threads to remove the powder coat.

Thanks for your input.

Ji

[OSSA PHANTOM]

 Ji,
 No problem, I rode and worked for a CZ many years ago, If you really need to find a bizarre CZ part let kme know. Once a year I fly back to the US and drink beer with the old boy who owned the shop. I know his shed has many secrets like a 400 Falta, "0" miles 1972 250 enduro and my old 250 cz.

[Ji Gantor]

Hi OSSA PHANTOM,
Thanks for the offer I may have to take you up on it.
I am always surprised at what comes out of old sheds.

Great tip about the aircraft paint.

Ji

[HL500]

Hi guys, the company that powdercoats my frames puts the frame in the baking oven before powdercoating to make sure oil doesn't leak.  I had an Yamaha XT500 done not long ago and because of the oil tank in the frame he was concerned oil would leak, which it did.

John

[Ji Gantor]

Hi HL500,
Where is your powder coater?
I have been suggesting this for years.

Thanks Ji

[HL500]

Hi Ji Gantor, Perth base mate.  The frame, swingarm and other bits cost $80.  Good price I thought.

John

[Ji Gantor]

Hi HL500,
Damn.
We pay $180.00 for the frame and swingarm and $15.00 for each and any other small bits.

Ji