Author Topic: NGK B10E & B10ES  (Read 513 times)

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Offline John Orchard

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NGK B10E & B10ES
« on: March 29, 2024, 04:22:46 PM »
Hi Chaps, any know the difference between B10E and the B10ES ? They look the same.
Johnny O - Tahition_Red factory rider.

Offline sleepy

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Re: NGK B10E & B10ES
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2024, 06:23:32 PM »
The "S" means 'Copper core centre electrode (Super)' according to an old NGK book I have so the B10E would not have a Copper core and in theory would be an inferior design. Probably wouldn't be able to notice any difference in the way they work.

Offline John Orchard

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Re: NGK B10E & B10ES
« Reply #2 on: March 31, 2024, 07:30:33 PM »
Yep that makes sense, the porcelain is 2mm longer on the S.
Johnny O - Tahition_Red factory rider.

Offline sleepy

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Re: NGK B10E & B10ES
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2024, 11:49:39 AM »
Now we need to see the results from testing of the 2 types to see if in fact the "S" type is Super as NGK suggests. I recall years ago in a former life dyno tuning a turbo 750 Yamaha engine in a speedway car and being asked to try different types and brands of sparkplugs only to find the basic old NGK cheapies seemed to work best and the expensive Splitfire made less power despite the owner complaining that there must be something wrong with the dyno because the guy at shop told him they made more power.

Offline Wasp

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Re: NGK B10E & B10ES
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2024, 02:24:08 PM »
LOL . So true , I got caught up ones to , were a guru claimed the 3 point BERU would give 2% extra. Went back to the good old NGK 9EV. There are many stories about magic boxes and secret exhausts as well   :) Today we can laugh about that , at the time people parted with hard earned cash for nothing  :)
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Offline pokey

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Re: NGK B10E & B10ES
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2024, 10:25:26 PM »
On old charts S is for standard 2.6mm electrode. most electrodes are 2.5. Later charts as mentioned by Sleepy show it to be copper core 2.5mm electrode. Your item could be either depending on its age so measuring will tell you.


As you guys all know running a modern plug designed for modern systems with hi energy and maps on an old system is the same as running 98 fuel in a low comp engine. It just cant make use of the modern design as subtle as they are. Im no electrical engineer to be able to work out what my systems need just by the codes further than the basic size reach and range so i like you guys rely on the suck it and see. if it works it works and i cant see a reason to change.