Yamaha twin leading front brake adjustment?

[1983_Enduro_YAMI]

G'day folks,

This is my first time ever to work on a twin leading from brake and the factory service manual stated that the brake arm should be installed with the brakes applied. What would be the trick to install and adjust these TLS?

Cheers,
Jack

[80-85 husky]

start with the adjusting arm at 0 so both cams are flat against the shoes and try it from there. if you can, take the entire wheel and assembled brake to a good brake shop that does shoes and they should be able to profile the shoes to teh hub

[1983_Enduro_YAMI]

Tried you method plus my little idea of measuring the gap between the brake cam and the cam contact surface of the shoes. It's all sorted now and waiting for a new set of brake shoes while i have it apart. Thanks for your help

[ARN]

when you get it on the bike I do the final adjustments by putting a texta mark on the rod between the 2 brake arms and rotate it in small amounts in or out checking each time the hand brake lever for sponginess when ok the lever will be firm you will feel it improve when your going the right way .

[80-85 husky]

another trick is to line the brake drum with emery paper and run the brakes around pulling the lever to grind the shoes into the hub shape. works for any brake type. the hard bit is if you have new shoes, you cant get them in with emery paper lining the drum.

[Momus]

another trick is to line the brake drum with emery paper and run the brakes around pulling the lever to grind the shoes into the hub shape. works for any brake type. the hard bit is if you have new shoes, you cant get them in with emery paper lining the drum.

Has anyone actually done this emery paper in the drum idea? The shoe radius would be incorrect if you could get it all in place?

Another method is to turn the backing plate and shoes between centres. Using a bit of all thread, nuts and something to duplicate the cable end you set up so that the shoes are at the braking-hard point in the wheel, release and put in the lathe and reset. With just friction drive between the chuck center and the tail stock center at about 100 rpm the shoes will cut true to the correct drum radius.

[brent j]

another trick is to line the brake drum with emery paper and run the brakes around pulling the lever to grind the shoes into the hub shape. works for any brake type. the hard bit is if you have new shoes, you cant get them in with emery paper lining the drum.

Has anyone actually done this emery paper in the drum idea? The shoe radius would be incorrect if you could get it all in place?

Another method is to turn the backing plate and shoes between centres. Using a bit of all thread, nuts and something to duplicate the cable end you set up so that the shoes are at the braking-hard point in the wheel, release and put in the lathe and reset. With just friction drive between the chuck center and the tail stock center at about 100 rpm the shoes will cut true to the correct drum radius.

I do similar but set the axle up in the four jaw chuck. Mount up the backing plate and set the tool half the diameter of the drum from centre. Same way to open the shoes up till I get about 80% clean up. Works really well on TLS set ups and is even better if you can get oversize linings