YZ125G Build

[motomaniac]

Great job , very thorough. It's been  good to follow.

[YZ250H]

Awesome job Alex.  Thanks for sharing mate 

[alexbrown64]

Thanks guys, love doing the rebuilds, but they can be a nightmare sometimes when you run into problems.
Took all the parts up to Southside Powder Coaters in WA this morning.  They are going to do the G frame, XR75 frame, handlebars, spring, 2 sets pegs, airbox, brake arms and various other parts shown in the pic below. Thats blast, zinc prime, and gloss black final coat.. $300.  Thought that was a bargain.. pick up next Tuesday, so pics then..

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Finally finished the frame and can post some pics. Came back from powder coaters in almost mint condition. After all the work i had done, they blasted, zinc primed and gloss black powder coated the frame. 
There were i couple of minor imperfections which were touched up with 2k gloss... and then it was ready to wipe down, mount on its bike stand and take some pics..

This G now has a decent base to start the rebuild. 







Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Its been a while and the project has been on the back burner.
I do have several projects on, but i always like to keep moving forward.
Anyway, Geoff, at GMC has managed to jig up a YZ125G cone pipe and muffler.  And its a belter.
Still to be trial fitted and run, it certainly looks the business. Built for top and mid range grunt, without taking too much from the bottom, the cone pipe just looks factory and fast sitting there.



This project is officially back on tracks.  Geoff took a lot of time and effort to build this pipe and he is also doing a muffler to suit this application.  Gotta take my hat of to that.  And its all at a great price and build quality.

More pics coming soon hopefully,

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

YZ125G bike project is officially on track and being rebuilt as a runner.

New spoke kits ordered to rebuild the wheels, as original nipples seized and spokes are loose.
New tank decal kits ordered to add a bit of pizzaz.
New alloy bars orders. (originals are being stored for a future rebuild).
Shock has gone into shop for a rebuild with new bumper and seal head.
New fork gaitors ordered. (originals being saved), and new seals to be fitted.

All bearings are original and will be cleaned, inspected and regreased.
New airfilter to be fitted.

Other parts have already been blasted and powder coated.
All axles, nuts and bolts etc to be buffed.

Bike to be reassembled with new GMC cone pipe and muffler.  Jet as necessary.

We hope to have her up and running for Christmas.   Stay tuned for updates and pics,

Cheers,

[Hoony]

Great work Alex... love your builds.

watching with interest.

[alexbrown64]

The little G project is slowly moving forward.
Geoff of GMC fame has done himself proud and built a cone pipe for the YZ125G.
Fits up beautifully considering how close everything is on the G, as the pipe weaves its way around frame tubes....
He also fabricated a muffler that goes hand in hand with the chamber.  Both items are a work of art and look fantastic.  I have fitted them up, but am still along way from getting the old girl into shape for her first run.

My shock has been rebuilt, but the rebound adjuster is seized. Considering getting an Ohlins unit custom made from an acquaintance on Facebook that owns an Ohlins service shop in the U.S.  Pricey, but man it looks fantastic....

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Got the monoshock back today.

Powder coated spring. Everything cleaned and polished. New seal head and bump stop. Serviced with new oil and nitrogen.
Just one problem.  The rebound clicker spins, but does not "click".   Apparently its common for these to seize internally and there is no easy fix except more dollars.  For now i can make do without rebound adjustment as i have my eye on some new old stock shock parts and also an Ohlins.



Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Things are ticking along on the G project.  I just ordered a white Preston Petty MX front fender to fit to the front.  I have decided to go with a factory look for now.  So i will be getting some DC translucent sidecovers and cutting in some slots. Also getting a JT/Fox translucent cable saver front plate.
I am going all titanium on the engine bolts.
This week, i am getting all the nuts, bolts, axles and bibs/bobs together for several builds and taking them to the platers to get zinc coated with blue and gold chromate. I'm also sorting out wheel bearings and a few other nickers nackers..

I was in contact with a guy who owned some G's and was also manager for Ohlins USA.  He did a bunch of shocks for the G's including Steve from MotoTassinari and Lyle Lovett.  Those bikes just ooze style and dollars..

Wont be able to compete with those boys, but i think i will have something special with a GMC cone pipe and a few other goodies..Mine will also be all white......





Cheers,

[OverTheHill]

Been a few year since i had mine new--well jeez damn near 40 year [is that right--or back to school] Anyway, shock adjuster spinning. Could be two things but if its been serviced i doubt its either but the alloy/titanium rod corrodes & sticks in which case you'll be able to winf the adjuster away & back to it but no more. Or--if it's been adjusted right down to full damping & clicked one click too far [tight click] it'll stick the metering needle into its seat at the base of the shaft. Had a bit of luck just shocking it by upending the shock & driving it into something like a lead block. Actually i used a solid alloy block on the concrete floor & got away with one then next one was stubborn & egg shaped the end bushed bit [bugger] but it popped the needle back. Those ones were purely over tightened not corroded rod. Other unlikely possibility is the cross pin under the rubber caps of the adjuster is missing. Now 'if' the adjuster's been bottomed out tight then backed of with the pin seated then the damping will be so hard you'll wonder what the hell!!, push it down & it'll pretty much stay there or creep back plus hard to push down by hand on the bike--big jump would do it as flexes the damper washers. So [essay sorry] if it's corroded & stuck in the position for damping its been in forever then maybe best left alone--pull pants up & carry on. While i'm at it & think i've mentioned it once way back--the floating rear brake plate--make sure its free or it'll stop the suspension. moving [extreme case--but]. I found that out on mine as i'm a bugger for overtightening axles & eventually after many times the brake plate sleeve got swollen by enough to stop suspension returning. Panic during a meet fixing a puncture & bugger me what's going on, back nut of 1/4 turn was enough but had to dress the spacer &/or ream the brake plate steel insert. Also [but not in this case] the sleeve dents the end cap washer thingy & take up end float & 'could' or would have a similar effect. Had mine on Alky [methanol--shell racing special] with by memory Castrol MSSR oil mix. Certainly turned on too. Ran that in my 125F before it too. Where was i--forgotten the question lol. Love ya resto. I haven't got the patience i'm afraid, but admire them that do 'have'.

[alexbrown64]

Thanks OverTheHill.

I gave the shock to a shop, that sent it to a shock rebuilder.  They said something was seized in there and it was going to cost another $250 to cut something, and re-weld again. Not sure what it was, but i didn't want to throw more money into a tired old shock.
Its all coming along slowly... ordering a few bits here and there and taking all hardware to get zinc plated next week. At the moment i am having a punch up with the front axle, which has the spacer seized onto it.  Its going to get a little heated around here....

Cheers,

[alexbrown64]

Been fighting the G all week.
After sending GMC some pics of the pipe fitted up, we thought it was best to send it back to do a small modification on the mount. Should be perfect after that.

My allen bolts were just about welded in the bottom of the fork legs. I tried everything. They are 10mm. The head is about 13-14mm. Anyway, i used a 10.5mm drill bit so i drilled down into the bolt until i could see the copper washer behind the head. Then it all just fell away and i could separate the legs and remove what was left of the bolt from the inner leg and outer leg.

All hardware is in a vinegar wash getting the zinc removed ready for the zinc platers.

I have a big list of bits on order from Partzilla including a fresh white Maier rear guard and fork bolts, swingarm bearing kit, etc.

Koyo bearings are on order the the wheel bearings.

From DC i have some transparent side covers and front JT replica plate coming.

A Preston Petty white front guard should be here tomorrow...

Have also ordered a full kit of titanium bolts just for the outer engine covers.

Ive got some wider SS footpegs for a CRF70 on order. These have the same 8mm pins and mounting dimensions as the G.  They were only $25 on Ebay.  If they fit, i may go with the IMS Pro ones which are a lot more expensive but would be better quality.

A couple more pics below of some G's that are giving me inspiration as to the direction mine is heading.  Will strip the engine and inspect soon.  Its a low hours bike still on original piston etc.  It started and run super crisp when i got her, so i am reluctant to mess with it too much.

Cheers,

[Hoony]

what's your plans for it....garage or Racer ?

[alexbrown64]

Not sure yet Hoony. I have two K's for riding vmx meetings. I was just hoping to perhaps take her to a ride park and cut a few laps. It will eventually end up on display if i think it comes together nicely.
Probably rebuild.. ride.. rebuild display..

Cheers,