Author Topic: Plastic restoring question  (Read 3173 times)

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Offline Wasp

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Plastic restoring question
« on: February 20, 2017, 10:47:22 am »
Normally all my toys have a fiber glass or Metal tank . But finally I get around to restore my 86 race bike . They only made 35 of those bikes (EML Jumbo) and therefore shrouds , side panels and tank are no longer available .They are in top shape , just dull and scratched from wear . The mud guards are Acerbis and will be replaced with new ones . I did hydro blast the tank and side panels  and they are Perl white again , but not as smooth as what it was new . I used 1200 wet paper and it got much better . The question now is : Was there a sealer used from new ? Or is there a sealer available now to finish this project off?
VMX shocks , We don't just sell them - I design and produce them individually for you since 1989.

Offline rocketfrog

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Re: Plastic restoring question
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2017, 11:22:27 am »
Keep going with the wet and dry to the highest number you can find, I go to 13000 wet and finish with a product used to restore aircraft canopies ;) send me your postal address and I will see if I can find any "out of date product" that might still be ok for a dirty old bike tank.
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Offline Wasp

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Re: Plastic restoring question
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2017, 12:08:52 pm »
Ahh the big blue super market  ;). I have local contacts here  ;). Thanks . If it fails I will PM you .   So no sealer in the end at all?
VMX shocks , We don't just sell them - I design and produce them individually for you since 1989.

Offline rocketfrog

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Re: Plastic restoring question
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2017, 03:28:13 pm »
Polypropelene tanks/body work are not sealed to my knowledge. The tried and tested method of restoring injection moulded plastic parts is to use scraping to remove oxidised outer layer and deep scratching, then wet and dry in various grades to first knock down the high spots and then in the latter stages bring up the lustre. The final finish depends on how fine you go, but very careful use of a heat gun  can work wonders as well, I guess this kind of seals the finish - in reality on a macro scale it is more likely cauterising the fine "fur" which is picked up by the abrasive steps and gives the nice shiney finish.

There are many trains of thought on this subject, Mr Codrington actually wrote an article for VMX mag a while back which is a great resource if you can get a copy.
Political correctness is a doctrine,fostered by journalists and politicians, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."

Offline James Lee

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Re: Plastic restoring question
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2017, 08:16:27 am »
Keep going with the wet and dry to the highest number you can find, I go to 13000 wet and finish with a product used to restore aircraft canopies ;) send me your postal address and I will see if I can find any "out of date product" that might still be ok for a dirty old bike tank.

Hi Jason,Id be keen on some of this out of date product you speak of.

Offline rocketfrog

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Re: Plastic restoring question
« Reply #5 on: February 21, 2017, 04:25:48 pm »
Send me your postal address James, I am sure there is a container of the stuff spare
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Offline MaxPower

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Re: Plastic restoring question
« Reply #6 on: March 29, 2017, 07:32:34 am »
For the final stage i put a regular metal buffing wheel that you would use in a bench grinder into a cordless drill. You can get creative with a bolt or find an arbor at a home improvenent store. I used a plastic polish only to keep the wheel cool but you just buff away at a slower speed. Too fast will melt the plastic. Now ive only done a Kawasaki and Honda tank, be sure you try a hidden location first. Because Ive never heard of a bike like yours.