What do you get in a kdx for $331.85 ?

[80-85 husky]

id spend a week getting a pipe ready for that model

[kdx Geoff]

Meanwhile here's some inspiration for you (or maybe a distraction!)

 

Inside of the cases are nice and clean and the oil that came out was reasonably clean too.
The PV setup was all free moving and appears undamaged, but the little lever that connects the governor to the shaft that moves the rack has broken off at some point in the past. It wasn't in the cases.


I'm not used to being able to buy new parts from the dealer but the advance lever is available new from Kawasaki for the grand sum of 13 dollars.



The bit on the left is what was left of the old one. Any ideas why this broke ?

[80-85 husky]

the valves and rack would be gummed up from low rev application's over time until it suddenly got revved to pv actuation revs but as the pv's are now  seized, something breaks. usually the alloy teeth on the individual pv's get sheared by the metal rack teeth. when the PO realises there is no top end on the bike, they strip it, clean it all up and then wonder why its still not working cos your little bracket broke instead of the teeth on the pv's...a good thing as I believe new pv's are hard to come by....tho I believe you have a cache of spares that even Kawasaki Australia is eyeing off....

[Nathan S]

The C/D model PVs are far less problematic than the E/F models'.
No idea about part availability for the earlier bikes, but it is a PITA for the E/Fs.

I believe the arms break through fatigue when the PVs are jammed. The E/F models use the same shitty design for their actuator arms, which break too...

[kdx Geoff]

All the parts to the PV setup work with the advance lever fitted. I'd like to find out what caused the lever to fail.



As the engines on the bench and now apart, I've honed the sleeved barrel out to 66.07mm (service limit 66.10mm) to get rid of the almost all of the scoring.
The piston has been sent off to get the skirts coated with a "Molybdenum Disulfide DF1 coating" of 1 thou to increase the diameter by 2 thou and take up some excesses clearance with the old piston. l could have bought a new piston, they're about on feebay but this was less than half the cost and cheap enough to try out.

I'll do the main bearings and seals too, the ones I'm replacing are originals.
The cranks are different between PV and non PV engines. The PV crank has the primary drive gear splined.

[80-85 husky]

going the whole hog with this one Geoff?

[kdx Geoff]

going the whole hog with this one Geoff?

I had a new set of rings on the shelf and its only a small step from there to crank bearings and seals   

 

[80-85 husky]

yep, a "bored old fart in the shed" step from fitting rings..... I know how it happens.

[kdx Geoff]

Got my coated piston back and happy with how it's come up. Its going back together with 5 thou clearance (Manual says 3 is standard clearance) and new rings. The crank's within serviceable limits too.



That'll be the engine sorted (enough) with crank bearings and seals ($40) piston ($53 inc postage) and rings ($25)
All up I'm in about $463 

[80-85 husky]

that's a rough lookin piston there godfrey...

[kdx Geoff]

that's a rough lookin piston there godfrey...

I've got others 

[80-85 husky]

im sure... its still a bargain bike....if I paid 200 for a bike the it would be welded together from the crank pin to the rear sprocket with rust

[floberts]

Sorry to hijack the thread, but what does the red paint / epoxy stuff on the outside of the magnets do?

I was putting my PE175 back together last weekend and it had come away from the magnets in some spots and was loose in general so I took it all off.... Should I have put something there to replace it?

[80-85 husky]

I think its to assist in holding the magnets into the flywheel.

[fred99999au]

I missed this thread also and would like to know what the coating is on the piston and from whence it came?