New to VMX, 1975 Cr 125m

[peely_14]

Hi all,

I am new to the VMX scene and have just commenced my first project 1975 Honda Cr 125m.

Over the past couple of days I have been doing extensive research (treasure hunt) trying to locate parts. With all the wisdom amongst the group I would love some guidance on a few things:

1. What size excel front rim can I run on a Cr 125m? I have been chasing a excel rim, same spec as stock 1.40x21 36H, however I have been told excel no longer make this size. I understand the original rims were DID, however the spoke kits suggest using excel rims...

2. What rear shocks to run and the best place to purchase from?

3. Lastly are there any recommended spray painters in Perth, for when I'm ready to paint the frame and motor?

I look forward to hearing from you.

Cheers, peely_14 

[skypig]

Welcome to the madness.

Can't suggest anything regarding rims, but thought fronts were pretty standard.

You can try for "stock like the brochure" or think "I would have been the cool kid in 1975 with these rims!" Both great options IMHO.

Limited experience suggests not painting or powder coating a frame till it has been assembled (basically compleatly)
Then stripping it back down for the finish coating.
(More work - sure)

Pretty easy to weld/braze/what ever, a stripped (etc) thread on a frame, yet to be finished.
It's heart breaking to need to weld (etc) a freshly painted frame.

Post pics

[YZ250H]

Welcome Peely,

I've got one of these little beasts and it's an absolute cracker.  I love mine and you will too.  There's a wealth of knowledge on here about them, so you've come to the right place 

Best to keep the unsprung weight as low as you can as you need to save all the horsepower you can - keep the tyres small..  What are the size options for an excel front rim ?

[alexbrown64]

Welcome Peely.

I am in Perth also.  I found these guys.. http://www.southsidepowdercoaters.com/ to be the best to get your frame done.  They blast, undercoat and powdercoat your frame for around $140.  The job comes out tough and looks great.

You could contact RedAlert on here (Rod) as he may be able to do your tank.  I was quoted $660 just to do an rm80 tank from bike spray painters in Perth.  Rod matched my paint and did a brilliant job.

Good luck with the rebuild and if your keen, you can post pics up using photobucket.

Cheers,
Alex

[Rossvickicampbell]

as far as the front wheel goes just drop the hub off to Spoked Wheel Services - they also do SM Pro rims which are slightly cheaper than Excel but appear every bit as good.

Powdercoaters/painters etc will depend where abouts in Perth you are - a couple of good ones in Wangara if North of the river and you will receive lots of advice on pros and cons of powdercoating versus painting.

As to shocks - again a personal opinion - I now won't go past Works Performance - although with the exchange rate now a little expensive from the States but I found at the time local shocks to be dearer then.

Welcome to the addiction 

[peely_14]

G'day fellas,

Thanks for the prompt feedback i have noted all your suggestions.

Thanks Ross I will look into the works performance shocks, cheers.
Thanks alexbrown64 I will have to get in contact with them!
YZ250H now that Ive started im addicted and cant stop researching or tinkering. The next closest excel rim size for the front is 21x1.60 36H. Any idea whether this would work?
Thats a great suggestion skypig I will bolt everything up and dissemble for paint. I still need to mod up the hoop on chassis that sits over the rear mud guard.

Has everyone found those bolt kits off ebay good enough to use. I have found 250pce set from Spec bolt for $100 delivered. Wouldnt mind buying a engine bolt kit too.

[Momus]

Peely, Good choice of bike for a VMX start.   CR125's  are great little bikes and because you can usually ride up classes, it will give you plenty of races at a meeting.

The CR125 M's
- green and red tank stripers- had the 1.40 front rim; the -1976 on forward mount bikes, which use the same front hub, use a 1.60 section. You should be right with the 1.60. If you are buying a rim make sure you check the spoke nipple seat angle. Later disc brake rims may not be an easy fit.

My bit of unsolicited advice is to replace the Keihin carby with a Mikuni. I fixed up the loading up problem that is the Elsinore's biggest annoyance 100% with a 30 mm unit.

[Rossvickicampbell]

and plenty of guys in the VMXWA club with the little beasties also.

[LWC82PE]

Unless you are buying a blank undrilled rim which can be drilled specifically for vintage drum wheels, it will be a universal disc pattern rim that requires largish nipples. To use this rim you need to get the holes specially modified to the right angle to suit drum hubs. This will often further increase the size of the holes requiring even larger nipples. I think Excels are drilled for 8mm nipples from standard. This mod can work well if the shop knows how to modify the hole angles correctly but if you don't want to use non original oversize spokes and nipples then i would recommend you start with blank undrilled rims first.

For many years it was very hard to find blank undrilled Excel rims in Australia. Most people made do with modifying disc hub pattern rims. I don't think anyone was importing them but they were and still are available at Buchanans in USA. Things may have changed now and there might be someone importing blank Excels here. Give John Titmans a call.

[YZ250H]

I'd go for 1.6.  It's not that much difference.  Vintage Iron in the US will drill you a new excel (or possibly other) rim to suit your bike.  I've always had good results from them.  Get them to supply the stainless Buchanan's spokes to suit as well.

I totally agree with Momus on the Mikuni thing.  My bike was hopeless until I fitted one.  Now brilliant.  There's a good thread on here about it.  Lots of good info http://forum.ozvmx.com/index.php?topic=29517.0

[Rossvickicampbell]

going to the States for a rim is getting out there - spend the 50c and make a call to Spoked Wheel Services and see what he can do for you.  Have just had a 1980 Honda wheel done - excellent.

[peely_14]

Yeah thanks fellas I have phoned JTR and they are going to send me a quote to supply and modify the rims to fit.

Ah righto Momus where is the best place to buy the Mikuni from? I only just cleaned up the Keikin yesterday  haha

Was it expensive having all that done over in the States YZ250H? I will check vintage Iron out too!

Cheers Ross Ill see what JTR reckon and Ill go from there.

[Husk72]

Heya peely. The bolt kits are a great idea.
I used one to replace a lot of old, broken, and rusty nuts, bolts, and washers in my IT490 rebuild. Great value for money.
Was initially going to buy a plating kit, but with the amount of non original stuff used on the bike previously I'm glad I went for the bolt kit.

                                                                                   Cheers, Mark.

[Momus]

Get your Mikuni from TD Hatrick:

 http://www.mikunioz.com/

Should be well under $200 delivered and ready to go.
You will need an air box to carby boot as well; they are advertised on eBay and elsewhere and you may need to change the inlet manifold because the Mikuni has a larger spigot. I kept the Honda manifold and instead turned down the carby. There is plenty of wall so I made it slightly smaller than the Keihin size. It is a lot easier to fit and rotate after doing that.

The other thing with the early CR125's is to make sure you have a very good air filter element to base seal. They are wanting in the seal department because the filter foam is not clamped positively. If it is not right you can dust a motor in one ride.


If your bike has the original fasteners, it is worth going to a bit of trouble to keep them. The Honda bolts with the '8' marking and the other specific flanged bolts and nuts, the chromed top triple clamp fasteners, are the correct grade and a valuable part of the bikes aesthetics.

I don't have an issue with replacing the soft standard Phillips head engine screws with socket heads though; they are much better.

[peely_14]

Hey Husk72 what brand of bolt kit did you run?

Thanks Momus I will keep that in mind and buy a new carby towards the end of the build.

Are there any particular spokes people suggest to run? I see buchanans mentioned alot, however JTR offer there own range of spokes (stainless spokes, nipples are nickel plated brass). Re-mx also sell stianless spoke kits. Any thoughts?

Cheers,

Josh.