tank rust removal

[Digga]

G'day chief, sorry I didn't see this earlier. If you want some Deoxidine 624, then let me know & will grab some for you. BTW, Deox 624 is also the spec pre-cleaning/etching process for all Boeing & Mil aircraft prior to Alodine treatment & then re-painting maintenance/repair.

Do not use hydrochloric acid.

Can you post or send me some pics of the inside of the tank so I can see how severe the corrosion is, cheers.

[Mick D]

Here you go..

http://www.bunnings.com.au/bondall-500ml-ranex-rustbuster-rust-remover-converter-_p1560847

I used this product painting cars years ago.

Thanks mate, only $20 too. I will get some and try it on a few things. Cheers.

Hey Nipper the rust sludge in that tub above is from one heavily rusted object, it took a week to bring back to remove all the rust.

But it came out shinny, Can't show you what it was but, Sorry

[Digga]

Will send you the Tech Data Sheet & Safety Data Sheet so you can have a read 

[Mick D]

Will send you the Tech Data Sheet & Safety Data Sheet so you can have a read 

I am alarmed now at the total and blatant disregard and ignorance we had when we used the Five liters I found.
It must have been pure because you didn't need much added to water to clean an entire old 17' Quinnie back to shinning bright alloy

I look back now and feel as though I may have well spent the first forty years trying to kill myself

[Digga]

BTW it is now longer called Deoxidine 624 & I think the smallest pack size available is now 20 lt.

New name is: BONDERITE C-IC 624 ACID CLEANER

[LWC82PE]

Do not use hydrochloric acid.

Why not? I use it all the time and it works fine.

[Digga]

Its a more dangerous acid to handle, fumes are noxious, it attacks iron whether it be rust or not & leaves no protective properties to the now clean metal after etching. Phosphoric acid based products are much better & safer to use IMO.

A basic scale for degree of aggressiveness with most metals (but in particular iron) & safety are:

1. Nitric Acid (strongest)
2. Hydrochloric Acid
3. Phosphoric Acid
4. Citric Acid (weakest)

[David Lahey]

Phosphoric acid or citric acid works faster on rust if you warm it up.
I work at a big power station and every so often (12 years or so) we clean the insides of the boiler tubes with warm citric acid to remove iron oxide and metallic copper deposits. After rinsing that we generate a layer of protective iron oxide. The citric acid works a treat at dissolving the iron oxide. You can buy it as crystals or as a liquid
I've also done a few steel tanks using molasses which is pretty slow but makes the workshop smell great

[LWC82PE]

leaves no protective properties to the now clean metal after etching

Yes of course there are precautions to follow with every product you use. Just follow the directions and use common sense.
There is a procedure of additional steps to go through after cleaning the tank to protect it/stop it rusting.

[fred99999au]

I mount the tank to the face plate on the lathe , fill it with 2kg of sharp fine gravel  and let it spin around 15 minutes with low revs . Works a treat .

I have heard similar stories about putting the gravel (fish tank granite) into a tank and wrapping it in pillows and sticking it in the clothes dryer on cold for an hour.

[chrisdespo]

i'm thinking if you use Molasses for cleaning a tank you could add some yeast and then distill the contents of the tank and make some rum like kill two birds with one stone.

[fireyglen]

Ive heard crushed ice works well and easyer to temove than grit nuts and bolts etc.