YZ465/250 clutch arm retention in cases

[tony27]

What retains the arm in the cases, mine seems to climb up by 5mm or so during the day & is easily moved up & down by hand.
I've never really liked the feel of the clutch even with brand new cables & wonder if this may be the cause due to the cable not pulling in the same plane as it was designed. Clutch basket has no notches so that shouldn't be why
I can take photos to show what I mean if needed

[Davey Crocket]

It has a spring on top Tony that also works as a return. It hooks on the arm and the case.

[tony27]

Surely that can't be all that stops it coming out, every other bike I've ever had anything to do with has had some form of positive retention rather than relying on the seal & return spring

[Ted]

I think I recall that on my 465 it just pulls up as well. I could check on the weekend.

I know the 125 B has a bolt with a pin one end that holds it in.

If you don't like the pull get a clutch arm extension. Halves the pull force.

[mick25]

On my TT500 It has a small bolt 4mm dia on the side of the case just below the arm that holds the arm in there .
and the bolt is used to adjust the arm for the right arm angle for clutch pull there is a notch on the caseing to set it .
 but if I pull the clutch in with the arm in the wrong set angle and height it makes a harder pull you would think it is the same sort of thing on a yz (being Yamaha and all 
or as TED says get a different clutch lever , I got one of those ballards easy pull clutch perch lever combos and they work good , I allways lube the inside of my cables a lot and run my cables in the straightest way so I get a nice easy pull

[OverTheHill]

Tony, might be wrong but-- i think there's a casting mark on the case & the std setting is to line that up with the pointy bit on the arm by adjusting the thingy in the clutch pressure plate the other end. Can possibly come a bit further around to maybe give a lighter lift on the lever [to a point--experiment]. that's not helping your up & down complaint though & 'do' wonder if the lifter bit is slightly tapered [wider at the bottom & narrower at the top of the flat so [if in adjustment] it can't ride up due to the clearance becoming closer. If i'm talking rubbish lol] then i give up but can you make something screwed close by to sit on top of it to stop it riding up. In regards to the easy lift clutch thing--had one on my 490k from the usa & was the first thing i tossed [sold it] fitted a new good quality well lubed cable & never looked back. Different brands or models of levers up on the bars can have different amount of lift too. also, is there dimples in the flat on the arm from the clutch rod running against it!!, should be a ball bearing the other end to stop it all trying to revolve [i suppose]--or at least let the rod stay still-[or try to]- while the clutch is being disengaged & revolving. Sorry if i'm woffling on. If all else fails, buy a CZ, [another one]. Just one more thought, think there's a dimple in the case from some earlier idea they had--can you drill & tap that & turn a groove in the the arm shaft to line up with that. Carry on. Cheers OTH.

[mick25]

Tony, might be wrong but-- i think there's a casting mark on the case & the std setting is to line that up with the pointy bit on the arm by adjusting the thingy in the clutch pressure plate the other end. Can possibly come a bit further around to maybe give a lighter lift on the lever [to a point--experiment]. that's not helping your up & down complaint though & 'do' wonder if the lifter bit is slightly tapered [wider at the bottom & narrower at the top of the flat so [if in adjustment] it can't ride up due to the clearance becoming closer. If i'm talking rubbish lol] then i give up but can you make something screwed close by to sit on top of it to stop it riding up. In regards to the easy lift clutch thing--had one on my 490k from the usa & was the first thing i tossed [sold it] fitted a new good quality well lubed cable & never looked back. Different brands or models of levers up on the bars can have different amount of lift too. also, is there dimples in the flat on the arm from the clutch rod running against it!!, should be a ball bearing the other end to stop it all trying to revolve [i suppose]--or at least let the rod stay still-[or try to]- while the clutch is being disengaged & revolving. Sorry if i'm woffling on. If all else fails, buy a CZ, [another one]. Just one more thought, think there's a dimple in the case from some earlier idea they had--can you drill & tap that & turn a groove in the the arm shaft to line up with that. Carry on. Cheers OTH.

You have explained it better than me  the way you have said it is the same way on my TT500 to adjust the clutch arm

[Davey Crocket]

Tony, the spring that fits on the arm hooks over the arm and over the ledge on the case, maybe your spring is missing the hooks on the end? or extended to far and needs replacing. I have just stripped a low hour bike and the spring is quite tight. If all else fails buy a Maygo 490 and then you'll never worry about the Yamahaha clutch again.

[OverTheHill]

[mick25], yes we must've been writing & thinking much the same at the same time. Went to post as i recal & said someone's posted since last looking. I'll just add to the confusion although not strictly relevant but some models way back--possibly DT360A or MX250A--not sure, has an eccentric [accentric?] screw on the left that located the clutch arm [no chance of getting away] & clutch was adjusted [to a point] by turning that screw withing say 1/4 turn to lift or drop the arm against the tapered flat operating bit to effectively take up the clearance to the rod & bring the cable arm back around. Wasn't the best idea Yamaha had. More i think about it i doubt yours 'Tony' would be tapered but just flat. Must have an external look at my YZ465H [in an IT250K frame] as not had the same [or any] problems. Cheers.