In such a critical application you need everything correct and going with you. More importantly not one error going against you.
We were taught as a general rule of thumb that cir-clips are cheap and always to be replaced. Indeed that is also stated in just about every bike manual I have read. Although I don't always do so.
It is very easy to fatigue, bend and stuff a cir-clip when removing or from past fittings and reasons why they are recommended to be discarded.
Even if you use a new cir-clip, as you should be in such a critical application, take nothing for granted. You need to know it will work. You need to check it. You need to know that it is DEAD flat, that it is round, that its spring tension is strong enough that you are unable to push it around or turn it in its seat once fitted. You need know the locating groove is clear, clean and perfectly formed, an even more critical check when the stanchions are re-chromed.
If it is a punched out(stamped out) cir-clip, which most are, Face the sharp square edge down toward the ground, not the top ever so slightly radiused edge, but first put a piece of wet and dry on your surface plate, a light flat rub will bring to witness any high spots(burrs) left on the sharp lower square edge from the punching process. Make sure there are no burrs on the outer OD edge stopping it from going all the way "home". Give it every chance, use the correct pliers,
do not stuff the clip by over compressing it. Lay it first against one side of the bore, then compress it only enough for the other side to come on in, then lower it in to position. Be certain it is home, check the gap between the ends is the same measurement as the other assembled leg. If you can turn it? Start Again!
In the factory the pliers are "adjusted" and set for that job only. On full squeeze the piers will go no further than only what is necessary for the clip to "clear" the inner bore dimension, so that the clip isn't stressed too far and ruined by over compressing it.
You may have fitted valves or lengthened rods to the 7" rule? Whatever? make sure both of the legs come to bare the rebound stop load evenly at exactly the same point and time as design intended. Not one before the other. Obviously when the first fails the full load will then come to bare on the other until it in turn fails as well. To check it: put a zip ty or marker on each stanchion snugly above the slider. Fit the wheel and tighten the axle. Then remove it and see if zippies or dimensions have moved or changed.
You must be certain you are using the correct optimum clip. If for some reason you use, straighten, manipulate or repair an old one, and God only knows why in such a critical application? It is a spring, it relies on spring tension for its safety fitment factor. You will then more than likely, need to re-temper it.
,,,,, checking it for electricity will not help
PS; its a bummer about the bike, but I am glad at least that you are Ok,
