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Author Topic: 1980 PE 250  (Read 3135 times)

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Offline HVA61

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1980 PE 250
« on: February 02, 2014, 05:31:15 pm »
Today i was fitting an ignition to the 1980 PE 250.

The threaded section on the ignition side shaft was dodgy to start with. Well now its sheared off.

Before i start the search can anbody provide advise on if the ignition side shafts are still available and where would be the best place to start trying to source one

Thanks in advance.
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Autos are the way forward , see you round like a robot
Take the short cut, go Cross Country
The shortest distance between two points is Cross Country
CCM's and HL's bark like mad dogs

Offline bigk

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #1 on: February 02, 2014, 06:49:51 pm »
Drill & tap it to make it an internal thread to take a bolt rather than external with a nut. Fixed.
K
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oldfart

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #2 on: February 02, 2014, 07:00:23 pm »
As Big K has suggested  ... the metal is soft and will drill / tap easy. Have done the same on a Rm crank.
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TM BILL

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #3 on: February 02, 2014, 07:11:55 pm »
Quote from: bigk on February 02, 2014, 06:49:51 pm
Drill & tap it to make it an internal thread to take a bolt rather than external with a nut. Fixed.
K

That is great advise  :) simple when you think about it , but it's the thinking that's the clever part  :)

KXs are bolted on
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Offline HVA61

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #4 on: February 02, 2014, 08:10:50 pm »
Great idea fellows.

Thats what i will be doing
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Autos are the way forward , see you round like a robot
Take the short cut, go Cross Country
The shortest distance between two points is Cross Country
CCM's and HL's bark like mad dogs

maxvmx

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #5 on: June 26, 2014, 08:26:54 pm »
If running a internal thread is common, has anyone come across a 10mm x 1.25mm thread clashing with the woodruff key slot - be it ever so slightly?
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HeavenVMX

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #6 on: June 26, 2014, 10:31:08 pm »
Quote from: bigk on February 02, 2014, 06:49:51 pm
Drill & tap it to make it an internal thread to take a bolt rather than external with a nut. Fixed.
K
An RM crank I have has that solution with a slight alteration. It has a stud loctited into the internal thread so that you do not continually use the internal thread with the chance of damaging it when removing the flywheel. I thought that was a very slight improvement on 'K's' very smart idea.
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maxvmx

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2014, 03:13:07 pm »
Yes good idea, a stud will be better then a bolt.
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Offline OverTheHill

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #8 on: June 29, 2014, 07:28:01 pm »
I'm guessing a PE has a full flywheel where an RM would have a rotor, would an internal bolt or 10mm stud loctited in do the job ok?. I dare say it's a reasonably light flywheel, not a heavy bugger like my RT1 wheel that sheared the rivets [no cover] & chased a competitor when roadracing in the "70's. Had the same happen when bucket racing at the airforce base--mudbug 100 based motor & the crank broke off the at the main bearing [no cover again] then it sped off into the aircraft refueling tank area [at 12000rpm] & never found it lol.
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maxvmx

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #9 on: June 30, 2014, 09:16:18 pm »
The guy that I had machine my crank end off bored into the crank and tapped it with a 10x1.5mm thread - not happy!! If the stub he machined of was 10x1.25 wouldn't that drop a hint? Anyway the coarser thread flook up might be a blessing as it's not a uncommon practice with heat related fasteners like exhaust manifold studs on alloy castings - not that that forgives him..
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Offline TT5 Matt

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Re: 1980 PE 250
« Reply #10 on: June 30, 2014, 11:37:54 pm »
maybe he didn't have a 10 by 1.25 tap
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