Cheney Triumph 500

[firko]

Thanks Mark. I wish it was as simple as getting some Betor clamps. The Norton road holder legs are tapered at the top like CZ forks. And seeing as I did a complete rebuild of the forks with you beaut dampening rods, I really don't want to change the front end.

I forgot about the taper...would it be too much of a coincidence if the CZ and Norton forks had the same taper? If so find a set of CZ triples, they're light and strong.

[FourstrokeForever]

Unfortunately, the taper is different on the CZ compared with the Norton. And the width of the CZ clamp is only 6.5". The Norton is 7". I have a set of CZ forks and clamps but then my front wheel won't fit...Ahh, the joys of building bikes 

[firko]

Unfortunately, the taper is different on the CZ compared with the Norton. And the width of the CZ clamp is only 6.5". The Norton is 7". I have a set of CZ forks and clamps but then my front wheel won't fit...Ahh, the joys of building bikes   

Building specials isn't for the impatient or those who don't possess an ability to problem solve. I have only limited amounts of both of those attributes so getting on top of situations like your triple clamp problem or the footpeg placement dilemna on my Cheney take me a bit longer than the average old fuddy duddy. However, the euphoria that comes when you find an answer is one of the cool things that make building hot rods such a fun challenge.

TBM, right now it looks as if you're going to be limited to using Norton triple clamps or resorting to exotica like Swedish Horex triple clamps which Jonesy's using for the Norton forks in his 1959 Monark 500GP project. I've left a message on his busy phone asking what the score is with them...i.e. taper angle and which model Horex they're off. Stay tuned.

[matcho mick]

bingo,7",i did a few replica castings of the Eddie Dow beezer top triple in alloy bitd,i think i still have some unmachined blanks if you want to go that way??,think might still have a norton,not sure of centres but,pretty narrow from memory  ,back shortly,

[matcho mick]

bugger nortons 6.750" centres  ,i have an unmachined blank,(without the "superleggera"),it still has the same centres with 30mm holes,but no machined tapers??,you might sneak the centres out??,

[flower pot racing]

can you use a lathe?  (Or do you have a friend that can help?)

Take the whole Norton front end Sliders and yokes) and get a set of 35mm forks that have double damping, something that is straight, has the right amount of travel, correct length tubes that are straight and in good order.  Betor, Husky, Marzocchi Something Japanise (early CR125 for example) there is plenty to choose from.

Spin the sliders down to go in side the Norton bottoms then modify the tubes to have taper tops to match the taper in the yoke.  Stuff it all in and away you go.  (there are so many different ways of doing this, weld the assembly in, turn a thread in your modified slider and screw it in, hide the whole lot behind the Norton seal holders if you want etc etc etc etc.

Whilst you are modifying the tubes turn a thread to take a set of my large head Ceriani fork nuts (shameless plug there!) and then when you slide the tube into the top you the nut will hold it all in place.  Or just use the Norton style nut then it will look less obvious if you are worried.

The end result is a set of forks that work (better damping etc) and externally look the same.  You can set the height / travel etc etc whilst you are fitting it all together and modifying it.

This is not a 5 minute job and you need to know what you are doing.  But it has been done a million times before.

In OZ you may call this cheating but in the UK it is standard practice.  Miller did this a million years ago on his HT5 with Betor innards and every man and his dog has followed.

(I can hear people reaching for the Oz rule book muttering......... Discuss)

[firko]

I've seen a similar job done on 41mm Rickman forks. Early model Suzuki GSX-R Showa fork tubes and cartridge internals were adapted to the Rickman/Ceriani sliders. This was on a Rickman CR road racer but the concept would easily transfer over to the fat MX forks. I'm thinking of doing the same type of thing to the Royal Enfield forks I recently bought for my pre 60 TriBSA project.
Unless it's blatantly obvious it's not considered cheating here but it's a grey area that would probably open another hornets nest that we don't need right now.

[FourstrokeForever]

Thanks for all the information and offers for help guys.
What I really need is a cnc'ed billet top clamp that has a flat surface so I can mount handle bar holders onto them. I thought I had one but the centres were 7.5"...Bugger. I had to send it back

A lathe is the one tool I don't have in my shed and there are no machinists nearby that I can take anything to. And I really don't want to send stuff out without being able to explain EXACTLY what I want in person. I really do NEED a lathe.

I have spent a fair amount of time and money on the forks already. At the start, they only had 5.5" of travel so I had to modify the internal bushes and bottom of the legs to get closer to 7". Im happy with 6.75". And I also fitted you beaut adjustable manx dampening rods so I am really loathe to change the front end.

Building specials isn't for the impatient or those who don't possess an ability to problem solve. I have only limited amounts of both of those attributes so getting on top of situations like your triple clamp problem or the footpeg placement dilemna on my Cheney take me a bit longer than the average old fuddy duddy. However, the euphoria that comes when you find an answer is one of the cool things that make building hot rods such a fun challenge.
/quote]

And I know all about patience when it comes to building exactly what I want. Just when you think you've got it right, pull it off and make another one. Funny you mention footpeg placement Mark, that's one of my real bug bears these days after a footpeg mount snapped off my B50 at Connondale '09 chasing Tony Cavell. My right knee will never let me forget that moment. Fluck it hurt.

Is there anyway you can use a metisse type footpeg mount on the Cheney? All you need is a crossbar on the lower cradle and there is your mounting point.

[firko]

Is there anyway you can use a metisse type footpeg mount on the Cheney? All you need is a crossbar on the lower cradle and there is your mounting point

The problem arose from the r/s footpeg and mount being missing when I got the bike. Originally I cloned the left side mount but I wasn't happy with the brake pedal placement. I then fitted a Honda 250RZ mount and brakepedal combo which looks much neater but unfortunately I miscalculated and didn't allow for the kickstart hitting the peg at three quarter stroke. I think the original peg position is too far back anyway so I've decided to modify and fit a shortened DT1 Yamaha footpeg mount in approximately the same position as a YZ-A model (3" further forward) and use a Metisse brake pedal. I've dummied it up in the shed and it appears to be much closer to what I need than all of the other set ups and nothing seems to be in the way.

[FourstrokeForever]

Ah the joys of building bikes.....if it's not one thing, it's another