Use antifreeze on stainless bolts ?

[YZ250H]

Got some fancy stainless bolts to put on the cases.  The makers "highly recommend the use of antifreeze".
If I was using normal steel ones I would use loctite.
Do I use antifreeze, loctite or nothing at all ?

TIA for any help

[vandy010]

i use a dab of grease or oil on every nut/bolt that counts. especially engine bolts/spokes and the like.
i've never had a need for loctite and have never used it.
stainless does need a lube though as it's not as hard as a hardened bolt and can strip threads when loosened without it.
go the lube!

[oldfart]

Stainless on stainless tends to gaul up , hence the use of Loctite anti -sieze 767 ( silver ).   

[YZ250H]

What about stainless into a case

[Nathan S]

Grease will do the job, and is a lot cheaper.

My high-school chemistry is more than a little rusty, but IIRC: Compared to steel, stainless into alloy is less likely to result in oxidisation, but 'all' of the oxidisation that does occur will be in the alloy.

[Quicksilver]

dab of grease H will do the trick.

[firko]

On staino bolts I always use Loctite silver anti sieze or old fashioned Coppercote anti sieze. I've got a quart tin (oldspeak capacity on the tin, it's that old!)  of the stuff I've had for well over twenty years and it's still serving me well.

[YZ250H]

Thanks heaps guys for setting me on the right path.
Geez Firko I remember my uncle using Coppercote when I was a little fella.  I wonder if you can still buy that stuff ??
Grease sounds like the go as I have plenty of that around the place.  Lord knows I have given the bearing shop enough money in the last few weeks, so I'll keep the loctite anti freeze as plan B and where I have stainless on stainless.

You've done it again lads .  Stand by for more dopey questions as the bike goes back together.

One that springs to mind is - is threebond required around the crank seals (against the cases).  I have seen people do this - are they just doing this to be sure to be sure ??  Crank seals good enough without it ??

[Nathan S]

I've never done it, mostly because the factory didn't.

And its never bitten me on the arse.

[mboddy]

I remember my uncle using Coppercote when I was a little fella.  I wonder if you can still buy that stuff ??

Penrite does it.

[Colin Jay]

From my time in the navy (16 years as a weapons technician working on gun turrets and missile launchers) the use of stainless bolt on aluminium was not recommended unless some method of isolating direct metal to metal contact was used.  We used "dowty" washers (a rubber covered wave washer) under all bolt heads and nuts and an electrical isolation compound on the threads and shank of the bolt to limit metal to metal contact.  The reason being that in the presence of an electrolyte (salt water) the aluminium will rapidly oxidise and seize the bolt and start to corrode away beneath the nut and/or head of the bolt.

With the current state of land degradation and rising salinity in our wonderful country, you could end up with similar problems with stainless bolts on a dirt bike, especially if you have magsesium cover.  This is one of the reasons I won't used stainless steel case screws on my TT500 Yamaha engines.

CJ

[LWC82PE]

good points CJ. im not a huge fan of SS fasteners but for mainly a show bike or garage queen you wouldnt have any of those problems that you mention so would be ok to use. when anti sieze compound is required i use Penrite copper grease.

[pancho]

On staino bolts I always use Loctite silver anti sieze or old fashioned Coppercote anti sieze. I've got a quart tin (oldspeak capacity on the tin, it's that old!)  of the stuff I've had for well over twenty years and it's still serving me well.

firko are you looking for a carby for an rti? if so email me

[E74]

You Right ya know, I learned long ago at uni that Stainless and Aluminium/Magnesium do not emit compatible ions which will lead to corrosion, thats why I always use zinc plated bolts.....

[Rossvickicampbell]

yep - Colj500 is right - whilst OK ss can bind with Aluminimum etc (grease to the max).  Also keep in mind if going down the route of ss and ss then the best way to avoid binding there is to use 2 different grades of stainless ie one should be 316 whilst the other could be 309 or 304 etc.  We use 316 (marine grade) in our mill area due to its resistance to both caustic and acidic enviroments including cyanide slurry spillage.

Rossco