Welding question

[Rosco86]

Wanting to weld a 12mm x 100mm bolt as a pivot for a rear braking pedal on my slider. The engine plate is currently  made of aluminium. The pivot wouldn't be load bearing but would need reasonable strength. The plate could be re manufactured in stainless steel. What would be the best combination out of aluminium or stainless plate to hi tensile, stainless or mild steel bolts to weld? Obviously not doing it myself as can be seen knowledge is very scant in this area but I do know we do have some gurus on the forum.
Rosco86

[SlideRulz]

Hi Rosco, you can't weld a HT bolt to aluminium but you can weld one to Staino using a stainless electrode.
Can you put a bolt through the aluminium engine plate from the inside and fit a lock nut on outside of plate?
Hope this helps.

[Rosco86]

Hi Sliderulz, can fasten it that way it just puts a locking nut on each side of the plate which isn't the most attractive but works easily enough. Been a pain changing it from a long tracker but not much left to do
Rosco 86

[JAP 454]

Yeah Rosco, the two nut and long bolt scenario for the rear brake pedal pivot was the way I went on me TT500 Hagon, nyloc one on the inside of the front plate, me bro Jim complained that it didn't work, I replied " Dunno, never used it " !!

Foss

[SlideRulz]

Jim complains about everything deosn't he?

[jimg1au]

i just put the rear brake on the handle bars worked real well.ran with no front brake then.my longtrack conversion will have disc brakes on the rear with a lhs clutch m/cyl ktm on the bars with clutch underneath
jim

[Rosco86]

Totally agree Foss, mine will only be cosmetic to get it past the scrutineer. Rode Maicos in mx and hagons  with mechanical disc brakes on the rear sprocket and then went to 2 valve jawa speedway bikes, so I reckon I always really only had the naturally braking system......... Dig the toe in and drag when necessary.
Rosco86

[pmc57]

Get the 12mm dia pivot turned up out of hi alloy steel (eg 4140) so it has a flange that gives sufficient support (suggest about 24mm dia) on the outside face with a 12mm through bolt with an M12 thread on the end (inside). This way you can have a 24mm dia flange on one side and a 12mm falt washer under a M12 nyloc nut on the other (start with 24mm dia bar turned down to 12mm x 100mm long for your pivot, on the other side of the flange turn to 12mm with thread and length as required).

Just make sure the hole in the engine plate has minimal clearence on the 12mm bolt to stop it from moving around (ideally ream the hole) and keep the nut tight, it will last forever.

[GMC]

Welding isn’t always the best option, as others have said just use a nut to hold the bolt in place.
This can be improved by using large thick flat washers either side of the plate which will help to reduce flex.
Also if you check out your local engineering supplies or bolt specialist you can source extra long nuts

[yamaico]

Also if you check out your local engineering supplies or bolt specialist you can source extra long nuts

Any hardware store that sells threaded rod or allthread will keep joiners, which are, as Geoff said, extra long nuts. Cheap and very handy to have in the workshop.