it was clear engine enamel. UHT or power plus clear.
the actual run down on the how to buff the shite out you good stuff and clear coat it is halfway down the pages of the TM rebuild/restore guide.
but if your lazy like me just read it here
>>>>
Item 5 - Lacquered Once you have achieved your desired level of brilliance it is time to provide the surface with a protective barrier. Firstly you will need to meticulously clean all your parts being extremely careful not to scratch the finish you have just completed. Hence only absolutely clean soft cotton rags should be used (ie T-shirt material is excellent). OK, once all polish residues have been removed, wash the surface of the parts with Prepsole or high quality thinners (not turps).
Once Prepsoled, do not touch the parts with your fingers. Paints and lacquers will not adhere to finger acids and oils. Set up the parts on wire or wooden dowel etc to allow you to manipulate them during painting. Purchase a can or two of Power Plus clear engine enamel gloss paint. This product works a treat every time and is also impervious to most degreasers and detergents etc. Shake the can well, then place in a container filled with hot water (not boiling), periodically removing and shaking the can over a period of say 3 - 5 minutes. The warmed paint flows easier, self levels on the surface and sets quicker reducing the chance of runs and/or orange peeling. Being patient is the golden rule here.
Apply 2 or 3 coats of medium density and if necessary, rotate the component (on the manipulator you made earlier remember) to chase out potential runs. You will only need to twirl and weave etc for 10-20 seconds as the warmed paint will "go off" fairly quickly. With mission accomplished as far as the alloy is concerned, let's turn our attention to the fork leg upper tubes. That's right, the chromed bits, or should that read "heavily corroded and pitted parts".
Assuming we are restoring the motorcycle to its former glory, we are left with only two choices
