Kickstarter shortening

[Andrew L]

I have a bottom folding kickstarter off an dt360 dt400 etc for my rt3 360 that is now about 10mm to long since I made my new pipe and it wont fold all the way in, I have had to refit the top folding one which I'm not that fond of, has anyone ever shortended there's by cutting out a section and rewelding it and if so how successfull was it.Cheers Andrew

[Tim754]

A straight cut though and weld is fraught with weakness and danger. A high tensile metal dowel fitted internally before quality welding adds    some   security.

Yes even on a steel one. Been there and done that, have first hand seen the injuries ,one a compound fracture with bone out of skin, from kickstart mods. Just take extra time and care friend, and have 100% faith in the finished item. Remember it is a part that by it's very nature, requires brutal and violent forces to achieve it full potential.

[Andrew L]

even on a steel one

[JC]

And cut it near the top, not the bottom. Much higher bending stress at the bottom.

[Andrew L]

cheers tim & JC was going to make the cut near the top. Read about the dowel idea after a google search but they were talking about alloy ones but I supossed it wouldnlt hurt to have one although might not have enough meat on it to dowel it would stainless rod be good enough. Is mig welding good enough or do I need special rod and arc weld it.

[firko]

You could try a shorter kicker from a TY250. I'm not sure if it'll work in your situation but it's worth a shot. I've welded Maico kickers before and while they initially work OK they all eventually broke again. Unless you're pretty sure of your welding I wouldn't do it.
                                                              


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-TY250-TY-250-Trials-3061-Kick-Start-Starter-Lever-/130849877722?hash=item1e7742aeda&item=130849877722&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

[OverTheHill]

Have arc welded things like that, kick start & solid footrests [malleable steel] using some rods i had called 'Hi-ten 7', bit hard to get under way as the flux shrouds the end when you stop & needs a good tap to get it to strike again. In saying that--it's a great rod [or an equivalent type]. Can be welded over without needing to chip the flux off by memory. Also it doesn't spark when grinding off any overhang but you soon know when you're down to the base [sparks]. Had some Hi-ten 8 too which was 'hard as' & would have been ok for building up selectors or gear dogs [well, i'd do it] just a bit difficult to control the arc in a small situations like dogs but probably available in small diameter rods. Heard a story of a guy who had the first Husqvarna 4 stroke & got a conrod for it which took ages to arrive & was the wrong length. Being a pretty handy engineer type he just shortened it & welded it up--probably used something like 'High-ten 8'--never gave any trouble [one hand on clutch!!]. talking of kick starts i think i'd add a strengthening bit over the top just to be 'sure to be sure' after the initial weld.

[Andrew L]

All right have taken all said above onboard thanks to everyone. Next question then what if I heat it and bend it to lower it would that be more successful and stronger. Firko might have to find a ty one to try will they handle a 360's kick back.

[GMC]

It would be easier to modify the pipe.

Does the kickstarter stick out in the way of your leg or do you just want it to stop touching the pipe?
If touching the pipe is the only problem then put a dob of weld onto the stop at the bottom where the lever rests, this will hold the kickstarter out a bit from the pipe.


Kickstart levers are made from high quality steel (not sure what grade) and welding them will soften the surrounding area as well as the weld itself being softer.
Heating and bending will also create a soft spot.
Haven’t welded a kickstart lever for decades (apart from building up the stops) but if I was going to do one nowadays I would probably TIG it with Cro-Mo wire and get it heat treated afterwards.

[Andrew L]

GMC thanks for the reply the pipe is as hard up againts the frame and motor as I could get it I had to reshape some of the heads fins to sit it in further so no scope for mods there, think I will either have to put up with the original kicker or find something else.Cheers Andrew

[Davey Crocket]

Looking at those pickies Navman, I would just straighten the kickstarter on the bend half way up so that the top of the lever is inline with the exhaust (just put it in a press and do it little by little....shouldnt hurt it at all as a lot of kickstarters bend from use anyway)....then put the rubber grip back on the lever that they came out with....that will hold the lever out so theres no metal to metal contact.....easy pezzy.

[Andrew L]

Davey it doesnt show up as much in others but if you look at the bottom photo the pipe comes allot further down than the heat sheild and it would still hit if I straightend it. It really needs that bend made bigger and an opposite on bellow it to put and Z shape in it.

[Iain Cameron]

mavman try a DT2mx kick lever it might just do the trick , Also it is a RT360 not the beast you want to fuxx around with a possible kicker that is modified . I can send you a DT2MX kick to see if it fits . Iain

[IT490K1983]

Would be very reluctant to cut, weld, heat or bend. To much loss of integrity.