rm D model full floater strut length

[Ktm181]

Hi Guys,
anyone know off the top of their head what the struts lengths are, centre to centre, for rm250d & rm125d PLEASE? I dont need the 500 measurement as i have one of those!!! well two actually.

Also, these arms are cast alloy, has anyone attempted to make them adjustable? Can anyone tell me if they are hollow or solid cast??  Anyone have a set i can cut up to modify?

Cheers,
Kt.

[FireKwaka]

RM250D 250mm. I seen some DG adjustables on ebay a while back.

[holeshot buddy]

there solid i got some billet ones made by a engineer
which are adjustable

[Ktm181]

Thanks for the replies guys,

my 500d struts measure 250mm centre to centre, my 465z struts measure 257mm centre to centre.

Holeshotbuddy, what sort of cost to have made? Can you put me in touch with your engineer? Please,please?!?!

Kt

[Dono113]

Send ProjectD a pm (jason) he has a gaggle of D's  RM125/250/500, I'm sure he would help you 

[Ktm181]

Thanks Dono, already done, Jason must be away as no reply yet!

I may have just found and machinist who will make me some adjustable units out of mine, will keep you all posted on how that goes.....

Kt

[Dono113]

If he was home he'd help, he did my shock up on my RM500 for me and he's a wealth of knowledge.

[Ktm181]

Thanks Dono,

Yes, Jason is a good guy, very helpful, all us RM guys got to stick together for sure!

I am running around in circles at the moment, most machine shops are only just re-opening after Christmas around here, on top of that the machinist we used to use is NOT doing retail work anymore, sold his shop to his biggest customer and is now working for them 100% on their projects (heavy machinery etc), so looking to find a new guy with sensible prices for us little blokes!  Rod ends to make them adjustable can be had at decent prices depending on whether wanting the heavy duty stuff or standard (similar layout but stronger materials etc) AND if the rods are solid i cant see why they cant be simply "parted" off and have an internal thread cut to fit the rod end, we shall see.....first got to find the right guy....
What i want to get rid of is the mis-alignment (around 2mm) when fitting the struts, misalign means accelerated wear and binding to some extent, both bikes have it.
Kt

[D project]

WOW, thought you two would be okay if I went away for a week
My struts are the same, one is slightly longer than the other and seems to wear out the bottom plastic bush.
I think your idea would work well putting the rod end on,but may be hard to get them adjusted to the same length.
I have a set of the white brothers ones to suit the 81/82 models which aren't on a bike.They are just alloy tubing with a rod end on the bottom.
Still have the 83 ones off the 125 that I could grab off my mate down the track. They are the same length but the bottom mount is not as wide,so would be a good candidate to chop up

[Ktm181]

Hi Jason,

yes, we (I) was missing your feedback!!!

Mate, what are your x,z units like? I'd be interested in them if you dont need, otherwise i will be doing some mods on my original Z ones anyway, pm me your number again, i'll try not to loose it this time!!! As for the D struts, it might be fairly simple, will know shortly!

Cheers,
KT

[holeshot buddy]

i think i have some standard 84 alloy struts you can have
will have a look
mine are billet alloy with Lh and Rh threaded heim joints
been on for 5 years still good

[D project]

Think you will find the 84's are different again.
Larger spherical bearing on both ends and possibly a shorter length.

[holeshot buddy]

yeah i would have to check them not sure of year
have had a few zooks

[Ktm181]

yeah i would have to check them not sure of year
have had a few zooks

Holeshot, would you mind checking the size of the rod end thread and let me know the diametre please? An old set i had in a Z 30 years ago were only 8mm, my machinist reckons on using at least 10mm, it will only leave approx 4mm either side of the thread which he says is plenty if using a rod end on the end of it. The other option i thought of is cutting in the middle,boring and threading and using threaded rod with a lock nut, it would be a LOT stronger than a rod end (machinist agrees) but not look like the old works bikes. (it would then look similar to how Kawi did it with the 85/86 Uni track. My biggest concern using rod ends is that the ball will always be mis-aligned and might not function as good as it could, threaded rod in the middle means no misalign and using standard top and bottom mountings/bushes.
By the by, machinist only wants $40 to cut,bore and thread the struts to take the rod ends! Cheap or what!
Kt

[Dono113]

Welcome back Jas