Boyesen reeds.

[zorroz]

Well not alot of talking going on here so, I got some new boyesen reeds and the instuctions say to remove the factory reed stoppers and use the rev plate supplied. The old boyesen reeds in the bike (farked) had the factory stopper. Should I or shouldn't I??

[cyclegod]

They last longer with the stoppers than without them. What bike are they going in?

[zorroz]

84 RMtwofitty

[Freakshow]

LEave em in, they wont fray and fall in the pot.    Stoppers wont hold you up my freind you still be pack :O)

[suzuki27]

With or without stoppers they can still fracture and get digested.Some people would cut back the standard stoppers to allow more movement and claimed an improvment in performance.I would leave the standard stoppers in place as is and replace the reeds about every 5 hours of race use or when they pass their gap limit.

[RED ALERT]

I used to run Boyesen reeds in my RM 250's (86 - 90). Always removed the factory stoppers and used the Boyesen rev plates. Never had a problem. Go for it.

[Lozza]

Best place for B******ens is in the past or in the bin.Under any sort of load the top thin petal flaps around uncontrolably while the bottom petal barely moves.Reed technology has surpassed whatever advantages these crappers ever had a long time ago. Standard with the stops in bent in for high rpm and about 10mm for low/mid rpm will see the same results.

[mx250]

Best place for B******ens is in the past or in the bin.Under any sort of load the top thin petal flaps around uncontrolably while the bottom petal barely moves.Reed technology has surpassed whatever advantages these crappers ever had a long time ago. Standard with the stops in bent in for high rpm and about 10mm for low/mid rpm will see the same results.

Come on Lozza, tell us what really think. Don't be shy.

[Lozza]

You want the truth? :'(



You can't handle the truth 

[Nathan S]

Actually, I've heard the no-holds-barred Lozza rave about Boyensens, and I suspect that it would make most sailors would blush.

[Lozza]

That it would ,actually their 'Pro' series reeds are pretty good (or on par with everyone elses carbon fibre reeds),their 'Rad' valve can be cheaply replicated at home and is not as good as a V-Force assembly.

[Freakshow]

still reacon there is nothing wrong with the steal ones, just get em in tight to the barrell and keep em rough

[Lozza]

 
Best laugh I had all day Freaky

 

[oldfart]

Have been watching this with interest and still confused .... sheez guys
Can the Institute recomend where to buy these wizz bang replacements 
I'm sure this was discussed in the last forum and a member has some new bute material 

[mx250]

Have been watching this with interest and still confused .... sheez guys
Can the Institute recomend where to buy these wizz bang replacements 
I'm sure this was discussed in the last forum and a member has some new bute material 

It all about sucking in as much air/fuel, compressing it and making it go bang. The more air/fuel the bigger the bang.

With a two stroke there are three main barriers to sucking it in; the reeds, the transfers and the crankcase pressure.

To get the reeds to pass more air/fuel you can get bigger reed blocks, get the reeds to flex open more, or you can get more tip surface area so that more air/fuel get passed sooner.

Sometimes you can put bigger reed blocks into the same opening (RZ250 replacing RD250) and you can mechine weld etc etc.

Flexing more is an option (bend or remove reed stops) but normally leads to early failure.

Changing the characteristic of the reeds, Boyesens etc, to weaker/stronger normally has more effect on where in the rev range the power is produced rather than giving noticeably more power.

The multiple reed approach, Vforce reeds blocks and other, gives increase tip surface area which gives both a better responce and passes more air/fuel (= more power better spread of power).