comp kit - shed engineers come forth

[Freakshow]

Guys - who out there can lend me or make me a comp kit for a TM ? Why you ask, well im at the end of my tether with the TM250 dogging out after idle, yes we have checked god all everything, and although the guy i bought it off's words still ring in my ears" i replaced all seals and bearings" i have a bad feeling he was ;alas full off shite.  I recently came to that conclusion when i was able to tighten down the barrell with a open ended spanner, AKA what about torquing? any hows, id like to test the only freaking think i aint tried - testing, leaks specially the seals 'replaced or otherwise'.

Help needed -->  DOes any one have in there LOAn out draw or you shed engy's be able to knock me up some 10 psi+ holding plates for the exhaust and the inlet manifolds and perhaps braze a car valve in one ?  IM living out of my house at the moment ( being rebuilt) and i dont have the tools or means to make em'  --- anyone able to help me out ? i got a race in 4 weeks and im kinda sick of staring at my navel.  cheers

[pokey]

err. why not just  bite the bullet and replace the seals  and then you will never be in doubt. May have to anyways so ....

[Freakshow]

do i need to pull things apart and or split the case to do that ?  dont have the time or the space ATM including if i have to get the case split i dont wanna go there as its likely i A : would screw them up, or B: not get them back together properly. are you close enough for me to post the bottom end to you pokey ? if not id rather take the lazy way out and just check its not leaking somewhere, could even be in the upper parts who nows, if i can pressurise it i can discount that fault, if i go to the massive effort and cost to replace the seals and i turns out the gasketss breathing ill be less than a happy person.    :'(

So thats a no for the kit from you Pokes ?

[pokey]

Im in Brisneyland Freaky and rarely these days have time to scratch my bum.

 Three areas where it can leak  in the bottom end. Right main. Left main and centre gasket. If it was my engine I'd  do the lot as sure as shit you know the one you didnt do will  fail next and thats only going to piss you off more. Doing all three will satisfy you  that the bottom end is good. hell you will even have  receipts to show perhaps the new buyer.

To do the centre gasket yes you do need to split the cases and its not realy that much drama just looks it. One night  and it will be back running again .

From memory its the same setup as the 185, the magneto side seal is accesible without splitting the cases .
The clutch side the  bearing is in front of the seal. If you can work out how to remove that bearing  then you can access the seal. Only way I know is press it out from the other side...split the case.

11481-30000
GASKET CRANKCASE

Right OIL SEAL
09283-35004

 Right BEARING
08113-63050

 
Left Oil Seal
09283-30011


 Left BEARING
09269-30006

 Cheers

[Lozza]

You could chock the exhaust and inlet duct up with potatoes(don't laugh freaky) and take it to a kart shop.They have them and use them all the time.

[Freakshow]

if i have the right potatoes why do i take it to the cart shop, will they be able to thread the valve into one of em ?

i figure if i can get 5-10psi to hold in it for a good while i can give it a tick :O) if the trusty tire gauge shows loss then i know we got split apart issues.   If i can fix the TM lozza the gearbox for the MXA aint so critical right now i have 2 dead bikes that shouldnt be apart :O(

[Lozza]

Yep Kart shops usually have leakdown testers there

[oz555ktm]

The Best Tool you should have is Crank Leak tester.

Find a Old rad hose that fits the Inlet manifold and one that fits the
Exhaust manifold . then find Welsh plug to fit .
In one of them drill a hole and fit a tubeless valve in it .
Now if you can not fit a piece if Hose over the exhaust the go to
Clark Rubber shop and buy sum Cruch Rubbers or pugs to fit and Zip or
tie wire around cylinder to hold in .

Now fit spark plug Place Car or Bike pump on Valve and Pump

NOTE DO NOT GO OVER 5 to 6 PSI .

Spray all seal gaskets with Soap/water .
and Gear box berate pipe

Then see what you find

PS Do not pump Over 5/6 Psi

[Freakshow]

thats the spirit ozi, now your talking, i have hose, now i no the magic number is under 5psi i reaslise i wont need a plate to hold bigger numbers.

Look out $10 leakdown tester kit here you come.

as a matter of interest ( my mistake was guessing i neede more test pressure, so now that i have been correctly "realigned" what would you thing would be a a fair time frame for a leak down.  I was going for a hour, but based on the low pressure id be thinking minutes now to see a drop of 1-2 psi tops,   what would you say would be a fair drop and period ?

Thanks mate.

[oz555ktm]

If you have a leak it should Bubble up Eg around Base Gasket , Bubbles
around Breather or gear box Filler Hole  Etc Etc .

So if you are holding pressure and you can not see any Bubbles Than that means no Trouble .Look sum where else .

Then Check Compression.


If you Run a Higher Pressure you will Make the crank seal Leak.

Yes you mite have 125psi Compression yes . But crank case presssure
runs around 5 to 7 psi Max as the ports uncover the pressure neaver gets higher .

[Lozza]

The magic number I've heard is 1 psi pressure drop per hour.
Still feel if you had an air leak it would rev it's ring off after it was started, your bogging off the bottom sounds carb/plug/ignition related to me Freaky.

[Freakshow]

YEs you can rev it but under load pfffft, that what makes me think it may be sucking harder under a load and leaning out the fuel , but im trying to get all my ideas ready for a full on ausult on this pumpkin.   MY suzuki's are both parked an hour away in a storage shed near the track, so i wanna head down there well equipt and hit this puppy once and for all with all barrels im not leaving till i have answers.   I have to go there for a practice day on my 01 ktm on suday so im hoping to do a quick run on the 2nd bike if its full niose, then im going to swap out every frekin part till its fixed, if not im going to test for leaks in the bottom end, then failing that im bringing it home for burial.   I just want to be sure i have covered everything, i hate leaving there if i havent tried everything cause usually cant get back for 2 weeks and thats13 days too long

[dirttracker]

ive got a leakdown tester you can lend how can i get it to you.
 matt.

[Freakshow]

"where would ye be oooh tracker of dirt "   ( soory - i just been reading a lozza post)

[Lozza]

Still reckon it's something like a coil/cdi breaking down or a fuel problem like float level,clogged tap, stick needle & seat etc etc.I would make a test rig to see if your ignition can push a spark through an 8mm air gap.

[Freakshow]

Lozza like i said im taking a whole fricken bike with me that works and will swap over every thing until it purrs !.

I has a brand new mukuni and Betta bikes tested the electrics, what ever it is is hidden.  IF i peice out bit by bit it will have to go, then ill reverse engineer until the last piece i put on/ take off is in my gunsights.  ( then it will end up being a stuck kill switch ) ooh hango on a sec 

[pokey]

Cracked intake manifold rubber?

[Rosco400]

Lozza pulled my barrell off after and had hairline crack on baseline both mounting holes which couldnt see with motor in bike, actually fell off in his hand, apparently happened to a few of the early bikes, might be worth a look, mate who also recently purchased rm370 found same prob on his and few posts on old forum pointed this way

[Freakshow]

Cracked intake manifold rubber?

yes, but it idles ok it wont hunt off. also it dies when you ride, but revs its nuts when you twist on stand.  Im trying to get down there tomorrow to start on this sarga again.

Yes the intake rubber is cracked, have stuck silicon over to see if it made any doifferance = none at all

Rosco whats a baseline ? what fell off in your hand, part of the barrell ? im lost on where you are help me get my bearings on where you are point ing me.

[Rosco400]

base of the barell where four mounting bolts pass through, if barrel not pulled flat down on cases, vibration can crack around mounting points, base of barell actually broke away on one side of the rm465 through mounting bolt, hairline crack around other, i like you was thinking blown crank seals at first and prepared for leakdown test, same symptoms as what your saying, very hard to see so clean with degreaser and get bright torch and put your best magnifying glasses on, look very closely around mounting holes, baseline probably not best wording, sorry freaky

[Freakshow]

did you take piccy ? id be interested to see it for future referance, can you post it for us