Author Topic: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies  (Read 10968 times)

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Offline vandy010

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #30 on: July 11, 2010, 05:56:11 pm »
if it's welded with a stick welder and full of birdshit then it looks pre~75 :D
anything else is modern :D
"flat bickie"

090

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #31 on: July 11, 2010, 06:08:37 pm »
http://www.ballards.cc/catalogue-2010

Check Page 40  ;D

Re chinese pit bike pegs, if i was never going to stand up or jump the bike then maybe i'd think about using them otherwise not a hope in hell. Having come off a jump with a set of pivot pegs and snapped the pivot bolt on the landing, there is no way i'd trust some muk-metal pegs, its real ordinary what happens when your foot comes off, or brakes a peg when you least expect it to happen.

I ran Pivot pegs . They had a design floor in the beginning . I ran a set as well that let go on my modern when they first came out. Could have been a big disaster.Gave the back a bit of a tweek.
Re Chinese pegs, there are good and bad. The bad are cast shit and the good are the stainless type. I have a set on my cr125ra and have complete confidence in them. They are heaps stronger than the piddlely standard steel ones that broke.
I'd rather watch Home and Away than make a footpeg with so many options these days. 

Offline Freakshow

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #32 on: July 11, 2010, 07:15:38 pm »
I'll get howled down for daring to use anything Chinese on my bikes but I don't care. A neater, cheaper lazy boy alternative to rooting around with scrap steel, grinders and drills is to buy a nice set of $15forged stainless steel Chinese pitbike footpegs off eBay. As I exclusively revealed a few months ago, a friend actually visited the distributor in China and noted that the only difference between these and the pegs you'll pay $199+ for from the cool aftermarket shops is the packaging. I've got these on most of my bikes and they are not only solid and well designed, they also look period enough to pass scrutiny from the Period Police (of which I'm a serving member).

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/pitbike-thumpstar-H-DUTY-FOOTPEGS-/380227978875?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58875a867b#ht_500wt_849


hey i bought a set of these, free postage too, but i never go any pins or return springd.. dam i got jipped :O)
74 Yamaha YZ's - 75 Yamaha YZ's
74 Yamaha  flattracker's
70  Jawa 2 valve speedway's

For sale -  PRE 75 Yamaha MX stuff, frame, motors and parts also some YAM DT1,2,A and Suzi TS bikes and stuff

Offline yamaico

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #33 on: July 11, 2010, 07:19:33 pm »
Quote
That is a great add to this topic Vandy.
I did not mean that S/S can not be welded to mild steel by a MIG.
It can but to purchase a roll of S/S wire is expensive.
I have heard of people MIG welding S/S to mild steel with mild steel wire and having no problems.
I don't know how that would work long term.
Could even start to rust badly.
Stainless rods in the stick welder works fine

Offline vandy010

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #34 on: July 11, 2010, 07:24:00 pm »
I'd rather watch Home and Away than make a footpeg with so many options these days. 
get away from the TV Brad and get that boot to grip that footpeg :D
"flat bickie"

Offline Lozza

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #35 on: July 11, 2010, 07:32:14 pm »
Well for those that have worked S/S you will know that you require HSS drill bits minimum I used cobalt.
Cutting the stuff is not easy with a hacksaw.
And if the average guy does not have access to a TIG welder its game over.
Mild steel is the best.
Chrome molly would work okay but again hard to get and not cheap.

Ji



Ji stainless requires a 132deg drill point very slow speed and flood with coolant cobalt is only really needed with 112deg drill points. Even easier is just go to a water jet cutter and say here do this min charge will be $100 or so but you will get a lot cut for that(5 sets maybe)
Jesus only loves two strokes

090

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #36 on: July 11, 2010, 07:36:15 pm »
I'd rather watch Home and Away than make a footpeg with so many options these days. 
get away from the TV Brad and get that boot to grip that footpeg :D
I get it  :D :D ( not as often these days  ::) )

Ji Gantor

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #37 on: July 11, 2010, 07:54:29 pm »
Hi Yamaico,
Yes a stick welder works okay too.
The only thing with stick is it is hard to get it into the confined space to weld the foot peg widener on.

Ji

Ji Gantor

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #38 on: July 11, 2010, 07:56:22 pm »
Hi Lozza,
Yep water jet would be better.
I still used a slow speed and coolant with the cobalt bit.
Just habit I guess.

Ji

firko

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #39 on: July 11, 2010, 10:09:33 pm »
Quote
The only thing with stick is it is hard to get it into the confined space to weld the foot peg widener on
Not if you know how to weld properly. In fact, a stick electrode has more chance of getting into those pesky tight spots than a TIG or MIG nozzle.
Quote
Re Chinese pegs, there are good and bad. The bad are cast shit and the good are the stainless type
Absolutely....but I've been pretty specific here...I only recommend the forged stainless steel pegs. While the cast iron pegs look pretty neat(see below on my under construction Metisse , I share Bahnsys worries of one breaking and wouldn't trust them. His bad situation with a pivot bolt breaking on his pivot pegs however is a different thing to what we're discussing here. I've also seen a near disaster with a pivot peg which put me off them. They were a little to gimmicky for my liking.

Ji Gantor

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #40 on: July 12, 2010, 08:09:40 am »
I am sure they could be Oxy welded too.

Ji

Offline vmx42

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #41 on: July 12, 2010, 09:12:09 am »


Watch out Firko, somebody left your fridge door open…
When a woman says "What?", it's not because she didn't hear you, she's giving you the chance to chance to change what you said.

Beam me up Scotty, no intelligent life down here…

"everyone is entitled to their own opinion, but not to their own facts"

Ji Gantor

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #42 on: July 12, 2010, 09:36:52 am »
Just a tip when welding.
If the front plastic lens of your welding helmet gets splatted up bad remove it and clean in, then get some car polish and polish the spatter off.
The polish does leave small scratches but you don't seem to notice them because the lens is so close to your eyes.
The lens is 100% UV proof, I don't know if the lense has a coating that may be removed by the polishing, check with helmet manufacturer.
The best option is to change the lens with a new one but if you are caught out this works pretty well.

Ji



firko

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #43 on: July 12, 2010, 10:09:55 am »
Quote
Watch out Firko, somebody left your fridge door open…
Incorrect my friend. No environmentally aware vintage fan would be so slack as to leace the 'fridge door open. The door you can see id attached to the locker holding my mega dollar stash of forks and triple clamps.
 For future reference this is my fridge. ;D
Quote
I am sure they could be Oxy welded too
Do you mean welded or brazed? If you mean Oxy welded, you'd have to pretty confident in your ability and even then I wouldn't want to rely on the peg. You seem to have dismissed stick welding but Yamaico is spot on with his staino/stick method, I reckon it'd be the best method for this application.
Quote
If the front plastic lens of your welding helmet gets splatted up bad remove it and clean in, then get some car polish and polish the spatter off.
Chippy might have something to say about this one....you're stating the bloody obvious here mate. But if you're fair dinkum, forget car polish and use soap and water..

« Last Edit: July 12, 2010, 10:13:41 am by firko »

Ji Gantor

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Re: Foot Peg Widening For Dummies
« Reply #44 on: July 12, 2010, 10:17:42 am »
Here we go again.

I said that stick would work fine after Yamaico brought it up.

The spatter on the lens is burnt into the lens, no soap and water will bring it off.
I suggested soap and water to remove any large particles that may scratch the lens when polishing.

If it is so obvious than why do they sell so many replacement lenses?

Ji