1972 TS185J

[JADERD]

Cheers, that another reason I wanted another parts bike as the little lever type part of the clutch mechanism at the engine on my orig motor seemed a bit so hopefully part on new bike is fine.

Thanks once again, will update with pics / more info in coming weeks

[JADERD]

Used a brake bleeder to suck heaps oil out, had a real good feel of crank, can wriggle left and right slightly, but no up and down movement at all, appears the main bearing might be in good condition.

[JADERD]

Ok, here are some pics of the piston that came out of second bike.

i cant see any actual markings that its a Wiseco, im guessing due to the sticker on the tank that maybe they upgraded.

Its def not a stock suzuki piston as has no suzuki markings on inside (like my other orig on) but it does have TS185R on the inside of piston.

Piston appears in goodish nick, some blow by, not too much scoring, though it does have one mark where it appears to have maybe hit / scraped base of barrel at some point. The skirt has no cracks, although it does have a little flat spot on the four corners of the skirt, seems pretty uniform, not sure if from  manufacturing or from being in bike ?

im a noob to pistons, but compared to my other orig one this one appears to have a slightly smaller diameter but the rings seem designed to "flare" out heaps more than the stock rings on other piston.

so some questions

what do ppl think this piston is? any specific wiseco markings ?

does it seem in ok condition

is it true the rings flare out further / better than orig piston / ring setup, whats the benefit if so ?

cheers

pics below

[JADERD]

Forgot to add this pic, piston does have one marking. 060 and the arrow pointing to exhaust.

guessing 060 is a marking in measurement of some description ?

[kdx Geoff]

Its time like these its good to have some digital vernier calipers around, great to measure all sorts of things, l wonder if its a 6 or a 9 on the oversize piston ?

Is that a dot in front of the 6 or carbon ?

Geoff

[JADERD]

Appears to be carbon from what I can tell.

Info from do the ton forum and Suzuki TS forum recommend, replace rings and keep piston though keep it below redline due to already scored skirt of piston so I think ill scrap it and buy a fresh seeing as though this one isn't a forged wiseco or anything worth trying to use.

now that i have sucked out the excess oil from the crank area is there an easy way to test whether the oil was from deliberate addition for preserving / oil line siphon in or damage ?

if i just fill the engine with oil via normal filling point and see if is seeps in ?

once i find out whether i need to fully rebuild bottom end (how oil got in / if damaged) i will move onto new top end.

Sorry for newb questions but what is process for working out size of next piston, vernier caliper on top / bottom of barrel, get average of many measurements then buy piston next available size up and get barrel honed ?

will use barrel and head off this new bike as my orig one would be in worse nick i think .

Cheers

[kdx Geoff]

The vernier would tell you close enough the piston dia in relation to the oversize but not accurate enough for the piston/ bore clearance, you need a micrometer for that, might need to take your pistons and barrels to someone who can measure them accurately and reco as required, depending on how particular you want to be.

Geoff

[Doc]

Whilst it does not appear to be a Wiseco piston (usually have a W marking on the inside) it does have the L shape (dykes) top ring which was common for Wiseco (blue box) in the early '70s. The number on top is 60 thou the equivalent of a 1.50mm oversize (65.5mm overbore) Rings for this piston may not be easy to find. The carbon on the side skirt is commonly known as blow-by indicating some wear to either the rings or the bore or both. You would need to have the bore measured accurately to determine if it is within serviceable limits. I don't think they made an 80thou oversize piston kit for this model  

As for the oil in the cases a leakdown test would confirm if a seal/gasket or case damage is responsible. This requires assembling the engine, sealing the inlet and exhaust then pressurizing the cylinder to monitor any pressure loss. Not exactly an easy job without the right equipment. It's a little hard to say which way to go without seeing the engine but Matt's statement of the donor motor may only be in need of a top gasket kit, a set of rings (if available) and small end bearing to save splitting the cases maybe the go. As kdx Geoff said..it all depends on how particular you want to be.

[TT5 Matt]

ive got a wiseco orange bow .080 thou or 2mm oversize piston/pin with no rings if needed or rebore your other barrel if its still on std to .5mm or 1mm depending how bad the bore is scored/damaged.i got a nos 1mm piston for a pommy pound plus post and rings are cheap from Asian sellers too,have a search of ebay. ;)to see where to oil in the crank case came from see if its the same colour as the gearbox oil or the oil tank/pump lines as most oils have a dye in them

[JADERD]

Cheers for all comments.

to sum up might be best to use my original barrel which isnt too bad scored really (ill have a closer look) as i know for sure that was running its original piston which should allow decent honing of barrel if required.

oil seemed identical color to that of the 2 stroke reservoir.

another way a guy on do the ton forum mentioned to check the seals is to prop engine up so that the crank opening is level, fill with parrafin (kero) leave overnight and check if dropped. small amount ok from evap but if half way gone then there is a def problem.

Ill do the checks re bottom end then take it from there in regard to doing top end.

not being too particular but would rather put a new top end in for the cash whilst its all apart etc.

Thanks again for info