monoshock internal repair - not hard anodized 1983 YZ

[Momus]

Tomas I'd say about $300 for making and fitting/welding the shock body would be right. Of course if an engineer has to be found and directed the admin side of it could blow out a bit. Perhaps Wasp can let us know how much a new, Yammy replica 46 mm body will cost.

There could be a bit of fixturing and set up time to do the case job- ordinary car  mechanical workshops are charging well over $100 bucks an hour these days

  Sounds like you have a small Honda 4 stroke big bore job underway?

[flower pot racing]

I think Alex wasmore  after professional advice , Nathan . Your method would suit more a shonky wheeler dealer . 

My point was that some wear does not automatically mean that it has to go in the bin.
A shop like Teknik won't want to risk their reputation by doing a less than perfect job. I was pointing out that Teknik's idea of "knackered" may be overkill for his needs.

I used to know a bloke who rebuilt Mazda rotary engines for about a third of the cost of most other shops. His engines were just as reliable, and made just as much power.
The difference is that he understood what was a good used part and what was junk, whereas most other shops lacked that understanding and they would simply replace everything to cover their own arses... Didn't give the customer a better outcome, it just cost more.

Don't rise to it Nathan.  You advice is perfectly sound.  If you are an ex GP rider out win then go for it.  For Jo average who wants to have fun on a budget, what you have suggested is fine.    Why spend the money if you don't have to?

Of course a shop will go all out to do their best.  If they don't it always back fires on them when it doesn't live up to expectation and people start to moan, forgetting the customer just asked for and wanted (and could only afford) a quick cheap fix to have a play, so that was what he got and then he was disappointed that it wasn't polished up to look like and work like a new bespoke shock. 

When you help people in this way it can go wrong, so why would a shop do this and risk their reputation?

If several low hour shocks are coming soon, then pull them apart, use the best parts and build a good unit.  Maybe you'll get lucky and find a good body.

That isn't shonky wheeler dealer, it's good common sense.

Never the less if that doesn't work either it is good to know that there are specialists on hand that can get you going in the right direction as well as the possibility of a NOS unit.

Sounds like all the bases are covered.

[shelpi]

here here, We knew where you were comming from Nathan use the same methodoligy myself

[alexbrown64]

Well, i thought i would rehash this subject as i have some pics of the worn shock, and some news about the good one. Also, i have another bike coming and i may have to go through all this again.
As mentioned, Shock Treatment (Race Tech) got my first monoshock and rejected is as it was knackered.  I sent them two more and they said one was so,so and the other was acceptable.  I now have the rebuilt one with gold valves and new spring and it is great.  Feels plush, yet stiff.
They also sent me all the old stuff back, of which i have taken pics.
This is where i have a few questions.
Can you see the reason why the anodizers would not hard anodize these shock bodies?
You can see the one shock body rooted internally, can you see why Race Tech says the other is only so, so?
Would you rebuild the one that looked and felt ok?
This Q is for Wasp, as he has said that he has 46mm steel bodies, but do you have this style with reservoir fittings  and compression adjusters?
 
OK, here are some pics of the two shock bodies that were sent back....

External view of shock body...


The internals of the so, so shock body..


Is the reason they cannot anodize the internals because of the fittings or something?


Its obvious that this shock body is rooted...


The rooted and so, so shock bodies side by side.  Shock Treatment says there anodizers wont hard anodize them and that the left shock is knackered and the right is so,so and they wouldnt trust their reputation on it.


What do you reckon fella's?

Cheers,
Alex

[Daryl Jones]

I'd use the So So one without a second thought....but I'm pretty Dodgy.... With my own stuff.

If you have a Master Cylinder repair shop in your location, it could be worth asking what it would cost, to have the damaged one bored and a new stainless steel sleeve fitted.

A S/S sleeved one will outlast us all.

Cheers, Daryl.