Author Topic: Rear Shock Info  (Read 6691 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline firko

  • Superstar
  • ******
  • Posts: 6578
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #15 on: December 15, 2013, 01:50:45 pm »
Quote
These India forks you have fiko. What is the stroke/travel? What amount of travel do you think they can be safely increased too.
I'm yet to start experimenting Mick but we intend to try and get a good 7" out of them. At present it looks like they've got about 5.5"-6" of travel but we've got plans on modifying the dampeners and fitting emulators or replacing the whole fork tube and dampening system with something Japanese and cartridge oriented. My old mate Frank Stanborough is itching to get inside them. From what I've seen so far the quality of the castings and machining is top order stuff. I don't think the usual Chinese lack of quality criticisms can be pointed at the Indian Enfield stuff. These bikes are legendary for their reliability and sturdiness.

One "problem" or oddity is that the RE fork tubes (male) screw into the top triple clamp (female). The Royal Enfield top triple clamp is an exotic piece of kit that includes the "dashboard" speedo and tacho mounts. I've never seen such a weird setup before but that's what makes these old things so much fun, turning the ordinary into something special. 
                                                                                 
                                                                                 
                                                                                 
'68 Yamaha DT1 enduro, '69 Yamaha 'DT1 from Hell' '69 DT1'Dunger from Hell, '69 Cheney Yamaha 360, 70 Maico 350 (2 off), '68 Hindall Ducati 250, Hindall RT2MX, Hindall YZ250a , Cycle Factory RT2MX flat tracker, Yamaha 1T250J, Maico 250 trials, '71, Boyd and Stellings TM400, Shell OW72,750 Yamaha

Offline Mick D

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 2915
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2013, 02:35:36 pm »
Thanks for going to so much trouble in your reply Firko

All of my research suggests that these lowers are the same as the original offerings available in 1959.

The alloy triples I now have for my Pre-60 have an offset better suited to Non-leading axle type. So Norton Road-holders for that one.

But I will now grab a set of those leading axle ones, you have linked for my Pre-65,360. Thanks.


I have the exact correct alloy triples for the February 1964 MC360 Maico as well.


Cost me $400AU. I am glad that I get a lot of satisfaction from researching and piecing together all these projects.
Every now and then, I think I could have had a floating harem instead. Hummmm.
"light weight, and it works great"  :)

Offline Mick D

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 2915
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #17 on: December 15, 2013, 03:06:40 pm »
If those Enfields forks are still the same patterns etc as the '59, they should be 35mm Firko? could you confirm please.

I also have the correct alloy sliders for the 64 as well, but the bores need to be cleaned up slightly. So I intend to fit up low friction sacrificial bushes to them. I will only be happy when I am in a position to machine them my self(rare as).

In the meantime those leading axle Enfields will produce an acceptable trail outcome with the 64 Maico triples.
"light weight, and it works great"  :)

Offline Mick D

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 2915
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #18 on: December 15, 2013, 03:12:48 pm »
In the meantime those leading axle Enfields will produce an acceptable trail outcome with the 64 Maico triples.

I really want to be in that Heaven pre-65 series this year 8)
"light weight, and it works great"  :)

Offline firko

  • Superstar
  • ******
  • Posts: 6578
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #19 on: December 15, 2013, 03:39:08 pm »
 
Quote
All of my research suggests that these lowers are the same as the original offerings available in 1959
They're exactly the same at the '59 version which is why I had the brainstorm that they might be the hot ticket for pre 60. I'm going to use them on my TriBSA project for pre 60. I'm not sure how the BSA C15 steering head dimensions compare to the Royal Enfield but there won't be a lot of adjustment needed on the Beeza frame, if any. I'm doing a fair bit of surgery/strengthening in the steering head area so it won't be too big a task to bring the head in a tad to allow for the leading axle of the forks. The forks are indeed 35mm Mick so I'll be using Norton,  BSA or Triumph triple clamps unless I can find a set of Royal Enfield Interceptor triple clamps (pretty unlikely). I'm also going to use the Royal Enfield conical front wheel hub too. It's a boltup to the forks and as cheap as shit out of India complete with brakes and axle.http://www.ebay.com/itm/181218261244?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649   I was talking to a mate the other day and he thinks I should use the Enfield frame for my pre 60 project as he reckons it's a lot stronger than my C15 item. It's got me thinking a bit and Id like to know what, if any differences there is between the 1959 Bullet and Indian Enfield Bullet frames. Once I get a definite answer I may jet off an email to DT to see what he thinks of the Enfield India in pre 60.
Quote
I am glad that I get a lot of satisfaction from researching and piecing together all these projects.
Me too. I get a real kick out of these Frankenstein monsters. I find it immensely satisfying to build these bikes using the parameters of what was available in the day.....with a twist. I've looked at the average period TriBSA with its A10 frame, pre unit Trumpy 500 motor, Norton forks and QD wheel and figured I could build a better class legal bike using alternative bits...C15/B40 frame, Unit Trumpy motor, RE forks and brake and Harley Davidson Sportster rear wheel. The bike will still be a lump but it'll be a different lump ;). Restoring bikes as they came from the factory doesn't do it for me any more. There's nothing wrong with factory fresh resto's of course but I've done so many over the years I like to get a little creative these days.
'68 Yamaha DT1 enduro, '69 Yamaha 'DT1 from Hell' '69 DT1'Dunger from Hell, '69 Cheney Yamaha 360, 70 Maico 350 (2 off), '68 Hindall Ducati 250, Hindall RT2MX, Hindall YZ250a , Cycle Factory RT2MX flat tracker, Yamaha 1T250J, Maico 250 trials, '71, Boyd and Stellings TM400, Shell OW72,750 Yamaha

Offline stormer 254

  • Novice
  • *
  • Posts: 39
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #20 on: December 20, 2013, 03:10:26 am »
I guess it's fair to say then, that people think the shockers are no good but no one has actual experience of them?

Offline FourstrokeForever

  • Legend
  • *****
  • Posts: 1702
  • AKA Mark H #35 VCM
    • View Profile
Re: Rear Shock Info
« Reply #21 on: December 20, 2013, 08:26:41 pm »
Quote
I am glad that I get a lot of satisfaction from researching and piecing together all these projects.
Me too. I get a real kick out of these Frankenstein monsters. I find it immensely satisfying to build these bikes using the parameters of what was available in the day.....with a twist. I've looked at the average period TriBSA with its A10 frame, pre unit Trumpy 500 motor, Norton forks and QD wheel and figured I could build a better class legal bike using alternative bits...C15/B40 frame, Unit Trumpy motor, RE forks and brake and Harley Davidson Sportster rear wheel. The bike will still be a lump but it'll be a different lump ;). Restoring bikes as they came from the factory doesn't do it for me any more. There's nothing wrong with factory fresh resto's of course but I've done so many over the years I like to get a little creative these days.
[/quote]

That makes at least 3 of us nutters. After many correct restorations on late 70's and early 80's MXer's and enduro bikes, I've gone full tilt the other way to building bikes with bugger all suspension and big lumps of pommy fourstroke motors. Building them to competitive race bikes is a real buzz for me. And researching what is period legal and what has worked best in the past is a new adventure for me. Figuring out how to improve on what you have is all part of the fun. Not only do they look so much better with no plastic bits, but they sound so sweet and bristle in the day light  8)

As for shocks, I have a set of Betor MX shocks on my B50 and can honestly say that they actually work very good. Much better than the YSS shocks I took off the bike that I paid nearly 3 times the price for! I reckon they're even better than the works performance shocks I had on my Elsinore. Pretty cheap compared to other shocks, around $300 delivered to Aus.
And they offer 2 lengths, 340mm and 360mm. Totally rebuildable as well.
Arrogance.....A way of life for the those that having nothing further to learn.