Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - stump magnet

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5
1
CZ / Re: CZ 380 spark plugs
« on: January 23, 2014, 07:21:22 AM »
Thanks for the replies does anyone have a plug gap dimension? I only run one spark plug and run it in the rear plug position although it will run in the front position I was told to use the rear one what are your thoughts?

2
CZ / Re: CZ 380 spark plugs
« on: January 22, 2014, 08:39:07 AM »
I just bought a job lot of those plugs but they have -10 at the end of the B8HS apparently this is the size of the gap the plug is supplied with (-10 equates to 1.0mm) this is new to me as I haven't seen this marking on these plugs before, what gap do most run on the B8HS plug? Also what advantage is there to running the sparks on the rear plug rather than the front plug on a side pipe 360?

3
CZ / Re: side pipe crank
« on: April 12, 2013, 12:16:46 AM »
have had crank built up and ground back now has a nice fit and doesnt wobble about will do for a while till a more permanent solution i.e. hard chrome will be used but am short on time and the company in the uk who could do the hard chroming and regrind couldnt do it in time for the first brit champs round, if it lasts the season then great.
the bearing is the double row 54x25x21.6 C3 clearance, so no real alternatives for different sizes the cranks are not that hard to be honest and was easy to turn back and weld up.
will keep you posted on how it goes

4
CZ / side pipe crank
« on: April 02, 2013, 02:49:59 AM »
hi, my right hand side main bearing diameter on the 360 crank has worn to such a degree that the crank hops about in the main bearing and destroys the crankseal and then sucks in air and pinks, loctite used to work but now no longer, have tried a repair sleeve that lasted a little while but again no longer, could the crank half be remachined and sleaved back to the right diameter or is there another method i.e. spray welding and re grind or is it best to just replace it all and does anyone have a new crank?
would prefere the repair method but have no idea of cost any advice would be much appreciated

5
CZ / Re: CZ Rear Wheel Offsets 1973
« on: March 27, 2013, 09:33:04 AM »
ive rebilt a few cz wheels now and use an offset of 44mm, that is I put a straight edge right accross the brake drum and then measure from the edge to the outer most part of the rim.
hope this makes sense

6
CZ / avgas?
« on: March 04, 2013, 07:43:00 AM »
want to run it in my cz's, should I run it neat or mix with pump fuel? any jetting changes? any advice would be great guys

7
CZ / Re: sloppy gear lever
« on: October 01, 2012, 07:37:19 AM »
right cured it! the return spring had opened up on the dowel, i removed the change gate, held down the gear lever then gently bent the spring down a bit to remove the slop, will replace the spring during off season as only two events left this year

8
CZ / sloppy gear lever
« on: October 01, 2012, 06:05:09 AM »
i have a bit of up and down movement at the gear lever (not worn splines) on the side pipe making it difficult to upshift without bashing my knee into my chin because i have to lift my foot so high! where might the wear be within the shifting mechanism? has been like this for ages its just not as crisp as my other cz's would it be posible to see anything with the cover removed?

9
CZ / Re: jikov cd float height aaaarrrrrrr!!!
« on: September 25, 2012, 07:47:15 AM »
yup tried them they said trial and error! great lots of help, the problem was that you couldnt tickle the carb to start the bike unless the float height was adjusted to just the point of sealing of the float needle so when running the float needle would bounce about on the seat and flood as not quite enough pressure delivered by the floats, on closer inspection it appears the tickle arm that pushes the floats has been screwed onto the tickle knob too far so not enough travel to open the float needle enough to flood for starting, have now unscrewed the knob to the same dimension as my old carb.
Reese Dengler has emailed me to suggest the floats should be level with the sealing face of the float bowl with that setting theres plenty of float lift to shut of the fuel so hopefully now sorted.
this was a brand new CD carb to replace my old worn out one and they do work realy well so dont knock em till you try em though i would kill for the chance to use a mikuni but would have to change class from pre68 to pre74 and i like kicking 4stroke brit bike arse

10
CZ / jikov cd float height aaaarrrrrrr!!!
« on: September 24, 2012, 08:31:53 AM »
help cant find any info on setting the float height on a jikov cd carb as fitted to the latter 513 bikes have checked cz madness manuals and the info i desire aint there HELP!

11
CZ / Re: rear brake pedal travel
« on: August 13, 2012, 06:14:11 AM »
i think i will have to give the girls a freshion up over the winter as they have been raced for the last three seasons and the paint etc is looking tired

12
CZ / Re: rear brake pedal travel
« on: August 09, 2012, 05:56:49 AM »
billet gas cap i made
whole bike
and my twinport

13
CZ / Re: rear brake pedal travel
« on: August 09, 2012, 05:54:25 AM »
no stopping me now! heres the CR billet yokes

14
CZ / Re: rear brake pedal travel
« on: August 09, 2012, 05:22:47 AM »
finally all together with the chain guide that i also made from billet for the arm and bracket but used a modified universal guide block from MD racing recognise the pipe GMC?

15
CZ / Re: rear brake pedal travel
« on: August 09, 2012, 05:19:34 AM »
it worked! heres the rear back plate (note the slight nibble where i went right rather than left)

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5